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I'm at the finishing stage of building an AFV (an M113), and I'm a little fuzzy on when to dry-brush. I know that a gloss should be applied prior to decals, and that might be a good time do a wash - and streaks. After decals, a flat should be applied. From what I understand, dry-brushing - and pastels - should be done on a flat finish - which makes sense to me - so what I'm wondering is should another "final" flat coat be applied to seal in the dry-brush and/or pastels?
Along these lines, I keep thinking I read somewhere, from a very experienced and talented modeler, that a wash may actually work better on a flat finish. Is this true? I've read mostly that a wash should be applied to a gloss finish, but I swear I read that somewhere, and I think it was here at FSM
A wash on flat coat will be hard to remove excess, and therefore won't just remain in the panel lines. It will look overall dirty. Personally, I would do another flat coat after any dry brushing or pastels / pigments.
Life is hard, it's even harder when you're stupid - John Wayne.
Thanks AndrewW. That's how I was understanding it. I wanted to make sure though. So, it looks like what I'll do is... (this is following my base coat)
1. color modulation
2. stains
3. gloss coat
4. decals
5. washes and streaks
6. flat coat
7. dry-brush and pastels
7. final flat coat
Just be aware that most of the pastel powder will not be seen once you spray over it. It has been my experience that you may have to re apply more powder to make it more visible when sealing it.
Gloss coats are to help kill silvering on decals and to allow pin washes to flow into sharp details like panel lines, louvers, bolt details etc. If a wash is applied over a flat finish the wash will be absorbed by the dull topcoat and actually become a filter.
It's up to you if you wish to flat coat after final weathering but in some cases it may just diminish the "look" you are trying to achieve.
Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!
I have used dry brush on both flat and gloss finishes. If you need to take any off, the brush was not dry enough. The idea is to have it so dry that you build up color a bit at a time- the color should be very transparent. You stop when it is colored enough. Now, one of the risks of dry brushing is that once you go too far, it is indeed hard to go back to less effect, whether it is on flat or gloss. Application of thinner does alter the sheen on either type of finish. Like airbrushing, dry brushing takes practice, and a strong recommendation is "more is less," so stop at a little less than you intend.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
Ah, okay, now I'm thinking a second flat coat may not be necessary following a dry-brush. But, do pastel powder or pigments need to be sealed?
I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so
On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3
I don't think a final flat coat makes much of a difference to any drybrushing, but it definitely will not help pigments. I do the pigments, call it finished, and avoid handling it too much.
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
Thanks GMorrison. After what Bish posted, I was starting to think that a second flat coat might be unnecessary. I was still wondering about pigments and powders, and you just answered that for me. I thought that pastels might not handle a wetting too well. I think I have a good idea how to approach this now. Thanks everyone for the help!
plasticjunkie Just be aware that most of the pastel powder will not be seen once you spray over it. It has been my experience that you may have to re apply more powder to make it more visible when sealing it.
Morrison echoed what I said earlier. I guess you missed my post. Powders will be greatly mutted in their effect from the clear coat. It's best to apply the pigments and handle only if absolutely necessary.
Yep PJ, you're right, I was reading on my phone at work and I missed your post. I just read it and it makes things very clear. Thanks a ton!
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