Pigments, chipping and other weathering effects

I frequently use Testors Flat Aluminum paint for chipped areas, applied with the point of a sharp toothpick. I can make smaller chips that way than with any of my finest brushes.

I shake the bottle, remove the cap and set the cap down upside down on the bench.  Usually just the right depth of paint remains in the cap- dipping the toothpick tip in the paint puts just the right amount of paint on the toothpick.

I've found that Mig pigments adhere a little better than some of the others and they have a large assortment of shades. To show metal wear, a regular pencil or a piece of graphite is an easy and precise way to add this effect albeit a little more subtle than drybrushing a silver paint. For chipping, the darker oils very well or AK makes a chipping fluid thats brushed on those areas you want chipped over your primer (dark) coat. Then add you finish coat (acrylic) and let it dry. Then its a matter of using a short bristled brush with regular water and rub over those areas until the top coat wears away. Sometimes you have to work a little harder to remove the top coat but stay with it then it'll start coming off. This is very convincing. 

Enjoy yourself, Terry

Many hardware and paint stores carry pigments used to color plaster and stuco.  Much cheaper than hobby shop pigments if you can use the colors they carry.

I use very few pigments, usually rely on washes.  One powder I do use a lot, however, is talcum powder for weathering vinyl tires.  You can't paint those tires, so washes do not work.  You can get talcum powder in a variety of "skin" colors. I get a medium tan and rub it over vinyl tires for a dusty effect.

Bish, thanks for the comments, much appreciated!

Thanks Compressorman......I'll try that out on my first kit. I'm guessing at that small of a scale that would do nicely.

A silver colored pencil does pretty good chips.