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paint process

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  • Member since
    November 2005
paint process
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, March 13, 2004 1:57 PM
I always thought you should paint in the order of lightest color to darkest, because the light colors wil not be able to cover the darker ones. I was looking at some build ups of different models on random web sites and a lot of times they did the exact opposite, they went dark to light. I was wondering if it depends on what type of paint you are using(acrylic, enamel or lacquer) or should you always go from light to dark no matter what type of paint.

Casey
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Oak Harbor, WA
Posted by Kolja94 on Saturday, March 13, 2004 3:31 PM
Wow, that's a new one on me. Would be interested to hear the explanation behind it! Confused [%-)]

Karl

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, March 13, 2004 3:49 PM
I was told many years ago that it depends on the subject, armor and planes are supposedly painted in reverse order.

Example most armor is shipped painted in a 1 colour (olive drab) and the camo scheme was/is often applied by the crew after receiving the vehicle. Planes are all painted at the factory.

The painting order apparently also affects "perceived" depth of the camo scheme do the viewer.

I think with acrylics you will need to stick with light to dark, but with enamels you could go either way.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, March 13, 2004 4:42 PM
MMF, what about with figures, and sci fi stuff. For example one of the build ups I had looked at was Godzilla. The builder had completely painted Godzilla in green, and then painted in the eyes with either a light gray or white.
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: A Spartan in the Wolverine State
Posted by rjkplasticmod on Saturday, March 13, 2004 6:37 PM
I'm sure everyone develops their own techniques and preferences, so here's mine. When painting camoflouge on an aircraft model, I always go light color first and then darker colors over the lighter. However if painting a figure, I usually do it the opposite, laying on the darker color first and then working outward with the lighter colors. This provides more depth to the model and assists with any final shading you may want to add with dark washes and dry brushed highlites. I don't build much armor, but when I do I approach it the same as a figure and paint dark to light. This seems to give more depth to all the nooks and crannies and a more realistic scale appearance. Small details, like the eye on Godzilla example, I would leave until last because I wouldn't want to paint around it and the shading effect wouldn't apply. I don't think it matters much what paint you use,acrylic or enamels the process is the same. Painting with oils is another matter altogether, but this post is getting long enough. Hope this helps and don't be afraid to experiment and find what's best for you.
RICK At My Age, I've Seen It All, Done It All, But I Don't Remember It All...
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, March 13, 2004 7:39 PM
rjkplasticmod: yeah that definately helps....alot. I think you are right, I need to find what works for me and stick with it....the trials and tribulations of being a newbie. Once again thanks to everyone who has replied.

casey
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, March 13, 2004 8:04 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by caseyn5

MMF, what about with figures, and sci fi stuff. For example one of the build ups I had looked at was Godzilla. The builder had completely painted Godzilla in green, and then painted in the eyes with either a light gray or white.


That can be done for Kaiju and other Creature kits.

In general the first layer of colour that goes down is the one that is the most on the subject. White for figs, followed by flesh than other colours.

Normally I try to build the colours close to the way the would be on the real subject.
Example:
White --> Flesh --> Pantyhose/sheer blouse, etc.
as often the underlying colour will not 100% covered.

OTOH, if I go for certain effects I might start with a darker colour.
Example:
Blond Hair --> Green --> Yellow --> Highlites and washes.
Metalics:
Black --> metallic colour --> Hilites, washes & dry-brushing

I also generally follow the japanes sequence of painting the eyes last, as it is said that the eyes bring the figure/doll/painting alive.


rjkplasticmod has also given good advise, but it will definately depend on what end-effect you can/want to achieve.
Lucky in modeling as in most aspects of life youc an achieve the same or atleast a very simialr result using different methods.
Some people like dry-brushung others hate it, one of my friends uses mostly clear colours and glazes for his figs.

Play aroud and enjoy the experience of discovering YOUR method.
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