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Water-based primers

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, March 14, 2004 7:06 AM
What an great idea!
I just placed a monster order including the Tamiya Spray Primer, in the meantime I'll give the Benjamin Moore a shot, the less toxic the better for me. I'll post results.
Thanks guys.
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Napa, Ca
Posted by DrCemento on Saturday, March 13, 2004 10:06 PM
I've heard that a good non toxic prep for metal and photo etch in particular is white vinegar. it sort of "etches" the metal and makes the surface accept primers and paints much better. as for primers I'm a firm believerin Tamiyas plastic and metal primer in a spray can - it's not acrylic but it takes tamiya like nothing else and bites the surface better than any primers I've tested - good luck- and never be afraid to pick u someting and experiment! I like the first posters Idea!
Model builder formerly posting as jbatesc6
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, March 13, 2004 9:43 PM
You may either laugh or not believe this at all, but I've had good luck priming models with house primer. Yes - the stuff you use to prime walls, ceilings, exterior siding, etc... Specifically, Benjamin Moore's "Fresh Start " http://www.benjaminmoore.com/tds/1033/m7102300.pdf

I thin it about 50/50 with WW fluid (the usual airbrush consistency - "like milk") and it works quite well. One caveat - the specs on the can say specifically to *not* thin. Since I'm not trying to get 10yrs of durability on a sun-baked, rain-soaked wall of my house, my own opinion is that it's OK to thin. In anycase, the proof is in the pudding - it works for me! Before I tried this, I thought it might be too "coarse" to get smooth, even results from an airbrush - after all it was formulated for brushing and rolling. I was happy to see that when thinned, it airbrushes fine, giving nice, smooth, even coats. One of my modeling hobbies is model rockets. With this primer, the finish is so even that it perfectly "telegraphs" the fine spirals in the cardboard body tubes, and shows me where I need to do some more fine sanding. In this respect, it behaves just like a good automotive primer.

This particular primer is rated for use on metals, though I freely admit I mostly use it for plastic, carboard and other non-metallic surfaces. The few metal things I've used it on turned out fine, so I think it's generally going to work. It sands really easily, and makes a good base for all the acrylic paints I use. Sometimes I'll even tint it with some acrylic paint if I want to make top-coating go easier. If you don't use this particular brand, be sure to read the specs on the product you are using to see if it's suited for metal.

Make sure the metal is grease free (some use soap and water, others use alcohol or solvents.)

BTW, there seems to be a whole "movement" to using house paints for model airplanes.
http://www.modelairplanenews.com/how_to/latex1.asp

I would imagine that the amount of research and engineering in house paint technology is enormous. Joe/Jane Homeowner wants good results quickly, easily and wants it to last under some pretty brutal conditions. A side bonus is that you can get a quart of high-end house paint for under $10, a gallon for $35 or less. (Imagine what a quart of Tamiya acrylic would cost!) Personally, I just use what leftovers I have from house projects - so primer is essentially "free" for me.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Water-based primers
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, March 13, 2004 7:39 PM
Any good water based primers for metal that I can pass through an airbrush?
Are there any prep hints for metal, like prewash or sanding. The kit I'm working on has both Aluminum and cast and I really would like to stay clear of spray cans and enamels.
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