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Paint destruction

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  • Member since
    May 2015
Paint destruction
Posted by IEDDTEK on Thursday, December 10, 2015 9:01 PM

Here's my prob: I painted a 1/32 F-104 w/Vallejo and Tamiya acrylics. Then, 4 coats of Alclad gloss to protect it. Then decals, then another 4 coats of Alclad. I waited 48 hours and then covered the model in a mix of black and dark brown Vallejo wash. Waited 24 hours. Now...unlike a pastel wash, this mix did NOT just wipe off with a damp paper towel. Even though it says it's water-based. Then, ARGH....I used 99.9 IA. It completely burnt right thru the 8 coats of Alclad. Now 50% of the model is gloss paint and the other 50 is just a flat white/grey haze.

Is there anyway to salvage this?  Can I get away with using a different type solvent/cleaner to get the rest of the wash and the haze off? Resand/repaint?

This is the $145. Italeri F-104. I'd sooner display it ruined than throw it in the garbage.

Any ideas?

 

Thanks.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Thursday, December 10, 2015 9:31 PM

Sounds like the Alcohol was too hot for pretty much everything. Your best bet is to strip all exterior paint, a tricky thing to do and not damage any interior paint thru seepage, and start over. Obviously the 99.9% IP will work for that but it needs to be done with precision. And obviously new decals are required.

 

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  • Member since
    May 2013
Posted by Snibs on Thursday, December 10, 2015 9:57 PM

I would cry if it were me, I ALWAYS do to a test part what I'm doing to my model at the same time so I can test on it before committing to anything. Having said that maybe oven cleaner and toothbrush? still need decals but you should be able to salvage it.

Best of luck with it.

Mick.

Some stuff that might be interesting.

https://sites.google.com/view/airbrush-and-modeling/home

On The Bench.

Tiger 1 and Tooheys.

 

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Thursday, December 10, 2015 11:22 PM

The only brand wash I know of that can be wiped after application is Florys, which is made of clay.  Acrylics can be deceiving because they can be thinned and cleaned up with water.   Thing is once dry, they cannot be rejuvenated.   From my experience, Vallejo washes act more like a filter, as well as pool into receded detail. 

As you have experienced, not meant to be wiped off, even though their instructions would have you believe otherwise.  I think you can gently remove some where it may have pooled, but even when wet, it does seem to soften the underlying paint.

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    May 2015
Posted by IEDDTEK on Thursday, December 10, 2015 11:59 PM

So...I've never had to strip paint before. What do you think of using oven cleaner? How does that work?

 

Thanks.

  • Member since
    April 2004
  • From: UK
Posted by Jon_a_its on Friday, December 11, 2015 3:27 AM

Sorry for your loss, but everything is a Lemming Learning experience!

I would start with an ammonia based Windex type cleaner, OR 99% IPA (not at same time, always rinse well between applications) use rubber gloves & soft toothbrush.

In the US you have the option of Simple Green, which is effective & slightly less caustic than the oven cleaners.

The 'Mr Muscle'  or 'Fairy Power Spray' type Oven Cleaners... 

are the Nuke Option, are pretty drastic, are fatal to transparent Canopies, will loosen superglue.... but work.

Avoid Brake Fluid, it turns Italeri plastic into mush...

 

Good luck

East Mids Model Club 32nd Annual Show 2nd April 2023

 http://www.eastmidsmodelclub.co.uk/

Don't feed the CM!

 

  • Member since
    May 2015
Posted by IEDDTEK on Sunday, December 13, 2015 11:34 AM

Thanks everyone. I used  combo of Simple Green and Super Clean and oven cleaner. Took a while, but that, time, and a really stiff brush and a 70% IA rinse finally did the job. I can tell you this...even using decal remover...wow...does this job ever give testament to MicroSol. I will never question again that this product literally cements decals to paint.

 

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