Krylon primer gone!

Don try the ACE Premium Enamel primer. I love this stuff plus I use the other colors in the line as well. They spray wonderful. I like krylon too, sorry to here its getting hard to find. As far as hot laquers go the enamel wouldnt be very good though.

Bill

I just checked Amazon and they list all sorts of Krylon primers. I've never used it so I don't know if any of these are what you're looking for but if so maybe you can stock up before it's all gone.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=krylon+spray+primer

Thanks- I have an Amazon account and by a lot of stuff from them- never thought of paint. I guess it would be a ground shipment, but I can wait a few days for a multiple can order.

In my opinion, Krylon is garbage. My go-to primer is Rustoleum brand. More user friendly and is sandable wet or dry.

Krylon has been banished on my bench forever after a paint session with their black semi-gloss on an F-14 Black Bunny kit a couple years ago. That kit ended up with orange peel surface and in the bin it went. LOL!!

Hi Don,

Have you tried Plastikote primers yet? It's marketed to the automotive paint section and is a couple dollars more per 12oz can than Krylon and Rustoleum. I buy mine at a local auto parts store.

I've been using the Sandable Primer line on styrene, ABS, brass (PE) and resin with success. It sprays out in light coats and can be top coated with lacquer, enamel or acrylic. 

I've gotten into using auto primers (white to show true colors and errors in prepped plastic). But I'm wondering if they go on thin enough right out of the rattle can. Does anyone have a rec on a primer that goes on smooth and thin from the can or an AB? (Compatible with acrylics and enamels)

Also, I read articles where experts mention using oils to add weathering. I assume they mean oil paints, but what kind and why? The only oils I know of come out of tubes, are used to paint stout naked ladies and take 100 years (literally) to dry completely.

I have not tried plasticote yet- will give it a try.  I did try a Rustoleum primer recently. Used it on bare plastic and oils from plastic leached up into primer and result was not good. 

I find almost any primer too rough to apply gloss over, so have to sand it.  I even sand primer when applying flats.

I did find Krylon sandable primer- heavy on solids- did tend to obscure panel lines, but I consider those overblown on most kits anyway.  I like to fill/smooth the panel lines and rescribe them or use some other treatment on panel lines.  I would like to find a less heavy bodied primer for secondary uses- some of the new kits with higher quality molding do have some exquisite surface decal that thick primers could smother.

Some types of primers will fill in detail like the "all-in-one" primers you can buy at a home repair store. The automotive primers are seperated by specifics of feature and function of the product.

As far as I understand it, Plastikote Primers are acrylic lacquer. 

Spot filler/primer, is probably not what you are looking for because its purpose is to fill in light scratches as you spray on layers. In our case it will fill in the details, not what we want. 

Sandable primer, sprays on super light coats if you follow the instructions on the can.

Don Stauffer

I have not tried plasticote yet- will give it a try.  I did try a Rustoleum primer recently. Used it on bare plastic and oils from plastic leached up into primer and result was not good.

It's possible it's from the plastic parts not cleaned/soaked in detergent thoroughly. I use Rustoleum by spraying in 2 or 3 light coats. Never had issues whatsoever with oils from plastic leaching underneath.

I've had very good results with Gunze "Mr. Primer", in bottles or spray cans.  Give it a try.  Sprue Bros usually has it, in various viscosities.

TomZ

The Rustoleum 2X Primer is excellent, goes on smooth and thin and covers well.

 

That's the one I use. Try this one Don.

BlackSheepTwoOneFour

 

 

TomZ

The Rustoleum 2X Primer is excellent, goes on smooth and thin and covers well.

 

 

 

 

 

That's the one I use. Try this one Don.

 

Gee, I have tried that stuff twice, and had very bad luck with it.  I tried it first over the Krylon primer to continue some seam filling, and it didn't seem to play well with the Krylon.  Then, I tried it directly over plastic on an old AMT scifi kit, and it seemed to react with the plastic.

I bought a can of Primer for Plastic. By Rustoleum?? Lowe's has it. 

Used the Rustoleum primer again, on a newer kit.  Did not get the reaction I did on the old AMT kit.  Seems to be working fine.

Comanche pilot

I bought a can of Primer for Plastic. By Rustoleum?? Lowe's has it. 

 

So does Walmart.

FJ_

I've tried spray can primers a couple of time, and hated all of them. They, especially the Krylon, we always too grainy for me. I also don't like having no control over the paint flow. If you do have to use a spray for whateve reason I'd recommend the Tamiya. I use the airbrushable kind myself, but the aerosol is just as good.

 

The Rustoleum brand I use is not grainy and it lays down extremely well after a couple of light coats.

It's an art/gift to be able to get control using the aerosol. LOL!!

I mistook the brand from memory. It's Valspar. 

Latest test of the Rustoleum 2X (painters touch) primer was over previously painted Testors enamel.  Worked fine- I had worried about compatibility but it worked. 

I've had the best luck with the Krylon "Sandable Primer".  I like to give a model the "once over" with a very fine paper before final painting and not have to worry about the primer coming off.  I've never had a problem with it but it's getting a little high priced for my wallet and I'd like better control of the spray.  I would like to be able to put the primer on with my AB so I'm looking around for a suitable primer that is available in a can. I've tried a few but they either pull off with tape when masking or just plain rub off.  One of them felt sort of wet to the touch after a week and just rubbed off. I let them sit about a week before trying to pull the tape.  The temp. in the room is a pretty constant 68 with a 44% humidity which shouldn't be the problem.  I think an $8 or $9 can would last a lot longer than the same priced spray can.  It has to be thinned but I think we all have been there and done that before.

Jim  

Jim, where do you find it these days?  I started the thread because I cannot find it in any of the places I used to get it!

Don,

It seems to me that the "Coatings" industry is going through a sea change. For instance Home Depot is phasing out all house paint that isn't a paint plus primer as one.  I personally don't like this and think it stinks, but it must have to do with economics.   Everywhere you look there is less quality and higher price. If a manufacturer can squeeze another penny out of a product per unit they will.  This must be what is happening with Krylon and the situation you describe.

As far as house paint I now go to high end paint dealers like Sherwin-Williams (Who make phenomenal products) for a high cost.  No matter what you're painting a good dedicated primer dried for 24 hours, provides the best finish coat.

Don, sorry it took so long to answer.  I usually get the Krylon "Sandable Primer"at one of the local hardware stores.  Not all of the stores carry it.  I picked up a can about 3 weeks ago and he still had a few left and said the others should have it too as he doesn't know of any shortage.  I'm still looking for some primer that comes in a regular can so I can use it in the AB without decanting.  Trying one out now that only comes in white.  It's an acrylic and has to be cut with water at around 60% water(distilled) to 40% paint. I've tried it on a scrap car body and it went on great with 15# air in light coats.  It dries to the touch in 30 min. and sets up for recoat in 1 hour.  Have put blue tape strips on and removed at different times with no adverse effects.  It takes Vallejo Model Air colors very well and also MM enamels.  The only shortcoming I found is that it will only tolerate a very light sanding which is OK with me as that is all I do after priming.  I'm trying it out on a couple of models that I am working on now to see how it stands up to the finished product.  I'll let you know how I make out.

Jim