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I started useing Alclad primer a couple of yeras back and a couple of times have had problem with blistering and finally thought i would ask if anyone else has the same problem.
Below is a pic of the engines from my Ar 555. I first painted the front with Alclad white primer. Then Xtracolour blue. I left that to dry a couple of days, masked and then tonight gave it a coat of Alclad black primer. As you can see, it has blistered in places over the blue over spray.
It also did it on the wing tips which i had painted yellow. It has not done it all over the blue area and yellw area, just in places. There nothign else gone onto this that i can think of. I used a testors silver enamel marker on the seams and those areas are fine.
I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so
On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3
Bish
I have never tried Xtracolor, I don't know what the chemical makeup is. But I think Alclad primers are lacquer based, if Xtracolor is acrylic, could this be a reaction to incompatible ingredients? Just wondering. And it is odd that the affected area, is relatively confined to that particular area.
When you do find what the problem was, I hope you'll let us know. Best of luck with getting it sorted.
Patrick
No, Xtracolour is enamel based, and it has been left for 3 or 4 days to dry.
Alclad is just weird stuff, that i won't use anymore.
Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...
I've heard some folks say they had nothing but bad luck using Alclad black primer.
Bish, maybe the Extracolour enamel reacted with the Alclad solvent. Athough I have not had a problem with Model Master enamels and Alclad.
The only problem I have ever had with Alclad is that the gloss black primer sometimes does not dry completely. A coat of their metallics cured that problem though.
“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”
That Alclad black primer is touchy stuff.
I contacted them recently because I found that particular product would remain tacky even after three months! Not sure if I have the so called 'bad batch' (mine is in a tall plastic bottle as opposed to the suspect glass filled one), but it should be dry to the touch in 20 minutes - yeah right.
All they could suggest to me was add "... about 10% lacquer thinners and apply single coats at 20-24psi-adjust your pressure so the paint doesn't orange peel-you might need to go higher."
regards,
Jack
Thnaks for the feedback guys. The Aclad primer i have is the Flat black in the galss bottle. jack, thats a strange one, mine is well dry within 20 mins. In fact i have just given it a re coat, and i sprayed a couple of small areas underneath and then did the whole of the top side, and the underside was dry by the time i had done the top.
I have had the same issue with the grey primer. What confuses me is that it has not done it in a widr area as the blue covered more than the area that blistered. I can only assume i must have got somthing else on there maybe from my hands. I think i might try a few experiments with differant products that i have on the bench and se what i come up with.
I really like their primer and apart from this have had no other issues. I find it gives a levly smooth coat and does cover up small scratches really well.
The laquer based primer ate the enamel.
You know, that does make sense. Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't lacquer a hotter paint when sprayed on top of enamel?
OldGoat The laquer based primer ate the enamel.
That does make sense, but how come it does not do it all over where the enamel is.
Hello!
That may be because the thickness of the enamel coat is different in places, and so the drying stage and solvent content in the coat. So at places there might have been just enough of the two solvents (enamel and lacquer) to cause the harmful reaction.
I've had a similar adventure some time ago - I painted the interior of the commander's cupola, molded in clear with black Humbrol. Waited till it dried like 24 hours. Then I put on some gray Tamiya primer spray - everything was fine. When it was dry to touch, I put on some more Tamiya primer, this time white. Shortly after that it all started to wrinkle and it all came down cleaner than maskol. A few minutes with a toothpick and I could paint it again...
And I painted it again some time later, this time using black Gunze paint - this time with no mean surprises.
Good luck with your build, I hope you can save it! Have a nice day
Paweł
All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!
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Thnaks pawel, now that makes sense. Its been saved easily enough. The wrinkles have come up and its primed up again nicley. I'll just have to be more careful in future. Its just a bit awkward when you have ligth areas that ned a lighter primer and you are following that with a darker primer on the rest.
That is interesting. Never thought of it that way.
Pawel hit the bulls eye here. I too think the same thing. Alclad seems to be VERY hot as I have shot Testors flat lacquer over cured Future with no negative results. Sorry that your work got messed up, that sucks big time.
Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!
Thanks PJ. Fortunatly it was not a big problem as it was confined to very small areas. I am just going to have to think about what i am doing before adding light coloured thearter or unit markings. I would normally have just applied a grey primer and done everything on that. But i am trying the black bashing approach and anted a ligter colur under the yellow and blue markings.
I might do some tests and see how long i can leave a paint before putting primer on top. It does seem that as long as the paint is properly cured, it won't be a problem.
What is the purpose for using both the black and white primer and the Xtracolour blue?
maxdtex What is the purpose for using both the black and white primer and the Xtracolour blue?
I am useing black primer because i am trying a method known as black bashing, which needs a black bottom coat. But i need to add some yellow and blue markings and i felf these were best added on a whiute primer, yellow especially can be awkward to lay down on a dark base.
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