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Masking with Bare Metal Foil

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  • Member since
    January 2016
Masking with Bare Metal Foil
Posted by Liquid Magma on Sunday, January 24, 2016 12:53 PM

I recently tried using Bare Metal Foil as a canopy masking material. When I removed the masking (almost as tedious as applying the material) there was a lot of residual adhesive remaining on the canopy. While I found that alcohol  (either isopropyl  or ethanol) work great for removing the adhesive, they also desolve the acrylic paints and topcoats I had applied.

Does anyone know of a good method for removing the residual adhesive that is compatible with acrylic paints and the clear plastic?

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Monday, January 25, 2016 10:04 AM

I used Bare Metal Foil for masking ONCE. Never again! Very hard to remove. Stick with Tamiya tape - or even Frog Painters Tape (yellow or green) from Walmart. Virtually zero residue once tape is off.

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Cameron, Texas
Posted by Texgunner on Monday, January 25, 2016 10:16 AM

I also used BareMetal Foil for masking a canopy...once.Big Smile  Oy vey!  I removed the sticky mess it left with GooGone, after pledging to never use that again.  Tamiya tape or pre-cut masks only for me now!  ymmv...(but I doubt it.Smile)

Gary


"All you mugs need to get busy building, and post pics!"

  • Member since
    June 2010
Posted by 5-high on Monday, January 25, 2016 10:46 AM

Ditto

I use pre-cut masks whenever I can get my heads on then ...but mainly I use tamiya tape.  I cut them in thin slices and frame in along the canopy frames (see mustang GB for how it should look ).then I brush in the middle. .makeing sure to overlap the tap with liquid masking . Ps apply masking liquid in two or three coats .

5-high 

  • Member since
    December 2009
Posted by PeakA on Sunday, June 12, 2016 1:23 AM

In the past I have used Bare Metal foil quite a lot with very few problems and I found it easier to apply than tape, however I have recently had similar problems to you. I recently built a Kawasaki Ki61 to enter in the IPMS model expo in Melbourne (Melbourne Australia, not Florida).

The canopy was one of the last parts I painted just days before entries were due and, like you, I experienced a lot of residual adhesive after removing the foil from the clear parts (to which I had given a base coat of 'Super Stride' vinyl floor polish). I have previously found a product called 'De-Solv-It' to work quite well (I don't know if it would be available in the U.S.). It is non toxic and apparently has a citrus base. I find one of those small sponge applicators used for applying mascara works well to apply it. I then quickly wash it off to avoid it affecting the paint work.

Unfortunately, this time I had used Alcad for the external airframe colour and De-Solv-It did just that in a number of places and very quickly.

So, I'm afraid I am not much help and would also love to find a foolproof method for masking canopies when things like precut masks are not available.

Incidentally, I wonder if the age of the Bare Metal foil has any bearing on the amount of residue left behind? I have only experienced major problems recently after not having made a model for a few years and using foil that would have to be at least 5, possibly 10 years old.

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Central USA
Posted by qmiester on Friday, June 17, 2016 8:24 AM

Check your local hardware store or lumberyard for a product labeled Goo-Gone. It's a citrus based cleaner which removes tape residual very nicely and comes in a plastic squeeze bottle. (Caution! there is another liquid remover out there called Goo-Off that comes in a metal can. DO NOT use it on your models - It will melt the model quicker than you can say "Oh Crap"!!! - Would you care to guess how I know this?)

Quincy
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