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That's a creative approach, fermis. Thanks. I'll look into it.
checkmateking02 What are some alternatives to Testors and MM gloss and flat coats, as stikpusher mentioned? I prefer staying away from acrylic-types. I tried some years ago (Micro-gloss and Micro-flat) and didn't they they worked too well.
What are some alternatives to Testors and MM gloss and flat coats, as stikpusher mentioned? I prefer staying away from acrylic-types. I tried some years ago (Micro-gloss and Micro-flat) and didn't they they worked too well.
I use MM enamels, exclusively...with the Testors thinner (red container). I did use Testors gloss a long time ago and had the same problem, the one time I masked over it (typically, I don't mask over clear coats, as all the paint has already been applied). Anyway, I ended up using Testor Metalizer sealer (clear gloss lacquer)...got too pricey for me, so I ended up buying a quart of Minwax clear gloss(thinned about 50/50 with store brand lacquer thinner), for about the same cost as 2 Testors bottles...I've used that on the last 100+ builds and haven't even gotten half way through it all yet! It is a bit "hot", if ya spray it on heavy (it'll crinkle up the paint), so I spray a couple light coats first, once that's dry to the touch, ya can get a bit heavier with it.
I should add to my previous post, I know lot's of people do use lacquer thinner for enamel paints, with very good results, I would guess it allows for a more aggressive "bite" for plastic adherence as well.
The non compatible issue I was referring to, is the spraying of lacquer OVER previously sprayed enamel paint, having seen the negative results myself. The lacquer thinner is hot enough that it attacks the enamel, it wrinkles and sort of curdles the finish.
When I've mixed lacquer thinner with enamel paints, I have noticed a much quicker dry to the touch time. That's a bonus, as enamel can be a long time setting up and accepting handling, decals, etc.
This has been a good post, I learned quite a lot from you other guys, thanks.
Patrick
Yup, I've always used the same thinners for everything. Tried Testors airbrush thinner years ago, and still had trouble with paint lifting after masking. Then I switched to Floquil's Dio-Sol, until it was discontinued. I've been using lacquer thinner exclusively ever since, and it never posed any problem till now.
What are some alternatives to Testors and MM gloss and flat coats, as stikpusher mentioned? I prefer staying away from acrylic-types. I tried some years ago (Micro-gloss and Micro-flat) and didn't think they worked too well.
If you used the same thinner throughout it should work unless Testors changed the formula and stuck the MM label on it (REALLY! Would they do that!??). I use glosscote and dullcote and they work just fine for me.
David From PA
I've had similar flaking problems with the Testors rattle can dullcoat doing the same thing long ago. As well as other problems with the glosscoat and dullcoat. Nowadays I stay clear of the stuff. There are better products out there. Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me.
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U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!
N is for NO SURVIVORS...
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LSM
Thanks for all the insights and suggestions.
David: I do use only lacquer thinner for all paint and clearcoats. So far it hasn't failed, except in this instance.
I have all three of Colourcoats' clear coats, but haven't used the gloss--so I'll give them a try, in addition to checking Testor's glosscoat. I haven't used Dullcote in years, but will look into it again. It seemed years ago to cause eventual yellowing.
But, Don, from what I've read in other of your postings, yellowing doesn't seem to be a problem these days.
For years I used Floquil's clear flat, which was so slick and smooth when dry, you could apply decals over it. It wasn't dead flat, but more of a semi-matte. Then, of course, Testor's discontinued it. I had hoped that their recent clear coats would be very similar. Apparently not.
Thanks again!
You might want to try Testor's Glosscote (also Dullcote) in the 1 3/4 oz bottle and thin it with the same thinner you used for the color coat. I've never (well, almost never) had a problem with it. I also thin my enamel paints with lacquer thinner. It could be that if you use a different thinner for your color coat it might screw up the clear coat because of the different thinners. I screwed up a TBF Avenger by using different thinners. Never do that again. The trick is to use the same thinner throughout the process. you can also try using future floor wax (acrylic floor wax) which is thin enough to spray directly.
I just googled the term varnish. The main definition I found was any resin dissolved in a liquid, which could mean just about anything. Since there are indeed many problems with incompatibility with hobby paints, it would be nice if the paint mfgs would be a bit more precise :-(
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
Thanks for this info, Patrick.
I've been thinning any and all paint with lacquer thinner since Dio-sol was discontinued, and never had a problem with MM, Colourcoats, or Humbrol. I always thought it was "hot" enough to adhere well to both plastic and painted surfaces, so this reaction took me completely by surprise.
So, it seems it's not a true lacquer at all.
I have bottles of their semi-gloss and their flat. We'll see how they work out.
Hi, Check -
Over the years I have wondered about the real contents of model paints, some called lacquers, others called specifically enamels. When this MM glear "lacquer" showed up, I e-mailed Testors to ask about it's true nature and compatibilty with their enamel paints. They assured me it's indeed OK to use on their enamels, and it is.
But I asked why call it lacquer, when the age old rule is no lacquer over enamel. The answer was, "the engineers felt that most folks consider a varnish to be lacquer based," so that's what they called it.
Judging by your experience, maybe it's not OK in all cases, but I did have good results. Possibly due to the fact that I always allow paint two or three days dry time before clear coating.
Thanks, Wilbur.
I wonder why it does that? I've had paint pull up because it didn't adhere to plastic very well, but I've never had gloss or flat not adhere to paint.
I did repaint with the gloss, and it actually blended in pretty well. It's hardly noticeable now.
This has happened to me before with MM Gloss. The Gloss is more problematic than the flat.
Just hit the plane again in the area and it should look OK. Maybe a couple of light coats.
I bought some of this and used it for the first time on a Spitfire I'm working on. Thinned it a little with lacquer thinner for spraying (since it says it is lacquer).
I noticed a small piece of fuzz sticking to the wing root, so I pressed a piece of low-tack tape over it, pulled up--and had this happen.
The tape actually pulled up the lacquer clear coat in small sheets. Now, the clear coat had been applied four days earlier, and I let it sit that long to set up and cure.
It left the original paint underneath intact.
I've never seen anything like this happen before, and thought maybe someone might have an idea about what's going on, and how it might be prevented in the future.
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