Badger 200G: Removing needle and cleaning??

Eric -

I don't want to muddy up your post, but I'm a bit lost. Initially the example of your AB showed a Badger 200 NH, you called it a 200G. The 200 G is a gravity fed model with a cup on top, the siphon fed models supply paint through the input port on the bottom.

But whatever 200 you have, removing the needle for cleaning is quite easy and fast. I loosen the needle lock not at the extreme rear of the AB, or you can unthread the two units together, the needle guide tube and lock nut.

Then the needle slides out easily, a quick wipe with some thinner to dissolve the material on the needle and it's ready to reinstall. I make it a practice to remove all of front bits, (3,) and give them a good cleaning with small implements, like cotton buds and brushes.

The 200's have been around forever, very durable and they work very well.

Good luck with getting it squared away, have you had a good look at "Don's airbrush" website yet? Priceless info to be found there.

Patrick 

On second look you're right. Chicago really has this model burried. It's not listed under Badger Airbrushes - but neither is the Krome. You can find it with "search." And even at Chicago discounted prices the 20/20 Sotar (a double action) weighs in at $270. I emailed Chicago about the Badger 200 (all out of stock) and they replied that whenever Badger had the itch, they'd send Chicago a new shipment of 200s, they'd sell out fast, and wait again until later. They did not suggest ordering the brush (even though it was $20 less than on Amazon) and waiting until stock was replenished. So perhaps Chicago is not the place to go for things Badger. Live and learn. But they've been great to deal with in the past, their prices are low, and I will continue to do business with them.

Below though you can see why I was confused after the first brush sent went kaput when I did as Brayson said and detached the chuck from the adjustment screw. The other reviews were of 200-20 and none recommended removal of needle alone through the rear.

Chicago airbrush puts the 200-20 with the 200 series.

http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/bamo200nh1.html

A YouTube from Commando Designs that appears to have some link with Chicago (this video appears also on the Chicago web page) does also: check time 2:30 for needle removal.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y-RgaolrmQo

Another review by Billy Carr shows needle removal 1:05. The brush looks the same as the one in Commando or as pictured in Chicago: the handle is a different color and has three bands around it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=naQnxvn3f0A

In any case, I'm not going to mess with the chuck screw which is very tightly on and will pull the needle and screws out together. We'll see if this brush needs less cleaning than I'd give a double action.

Eric

Your parts diagram is for a Badger Sotar, a different brush entirely (note, 20/20, not 200-20). This is a d/a brush and not a member of the 200 series airbrushes. The 200 series are exclusively single action brushes.

I think I can see the problem. The other two Badger 200s that had video reviews were actually 200-20s - "detail brush". Has a different look to the handle, but was referred to as a 200. Below is a diagram - it looks as if it has an extra bit on the needle to act as a handle - guess it doesn't screw. Anyway, the parts are different and the techniques to remove it certainly appeared different.  I think I get how to handle the 200. Thanks much.

Why is there any confusion?

You can 

• withdraw the needle by loosening the needle chuck as described, 
• or simply unscrew the adjusting knob until the entire needle/adjusting knob/needle chuck assembly slides out, leaving the adjusting knob locked to the needle via the needle chuck.

It's just a matter of personal choice.

Eric,

The adjusting screw does not attach to the needle.  The needle slides freely through it.  The needle chuck threads on to the adjusting screw and clamps the needle.  It's the same on all 200's.  So, yes, you can remove the needle by just loosening the chuck.  Just be sure the adjuster is all the way clockwise when you re-install the needle.

I don't believe Ashley works for Badger.  I suspect he does get samples for his reviews.  The 200 is a very nice airbrush and has many fans.

Don

Don,

I get the point. However, would any of your models allow removing the chuck and withdrawing the needle out through its hole and leaving both chuck and adjusting screw attached to the body as done by Ashley? The 200s I saw - I'm pretty sure - had the adjusting screw attached to the needle so there really wasn't a choice. When I followed Asley's advice before to doomed the airbrush - but if something else was wrong inside the unit, that might not have been the problem. And I think Ashley works for them. Just want to get this clear. It looks a very useful brush - if it lays down a solid coat it would sit nicely next to by HS Evo and Iwata Infinity.

Eric

I always pull the needle and wipe it down when cleaning any airbrush.  Failure to do so can result in a stuck needle.

I have to disagree with Ashley.  Let's suppose the adjuster is part way back when you loosen the needle chuck and pull the needle.  Now, suppose you re-install the needle and slide it all the way forward so it fully seats against the nozzle and tighten the needle chuck.  If the next time you use the airbrush, you turn the adjuster clockwise, it will force the needle further into the nozzle and split it.  The adjuster should always be fully clockwise before installing the needle and tightening the chuck.

Now suppose the needle and adjuster are set correctly.  If you leave the chuck tightened and unscrew the adjuster to remove the needle, adjuster, and chuck, the assembly will still be set correctly when you re-install it, and there is no danger of driving the needle in too far.

I have the 200, 200G, and 200NH, and they all have the same needle adjuster and chuck.

Don