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After reading a few finishing articles in FSM, I decided to try the approach of selectively applying Future to spots on a military vehicle prior to applying decals. Decals went on great. After allowing a few days to dry, I applied coats of model master flat lusterless lacquer. However I am finding that the treated areas of the vehicle still appear somewhat semi-gloss, compared to adjacent areas which never got the Future (and were painted with sand colored acrylics, then treated with various oil washes and alcohol-blended weathering powders).
Should I be using another type of flat agent, such as acrylic, perhaps instead of the lacquer?
Appreciate any suggestions.
On the bench:
Tamiya Sheridan M551
AFV Club IDF Centurion
The few times I used Future I was able to get good results dulling it by airbrushing Model Master Lacquer Flat Clear.The absolute best flat that I been using lately is Alclad Flat.
I've noticed the same problem. I could never get the Future to completely disappear. This is why I don't use the "spot" method any more.
Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...
Cadet Chuck I've noticed the same problem. I could never get the Future to completely disappear. This is why I don't use the "spot" method any more.
It's best to gloss the entire model to get a consistent finish at the end. The 'spot' method' will leave a different sheen when flat coated. I have seen that happen and do not use the 'spot' method either. I think that will happen with any gloss medium cause it closes and fills in the flat paint pores to produce a smoother surface, which reduces silvering when applying decals.
Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!
Hello!
I wouldn't use the "spot" method neither - those spots are later hard to hide. If you absolutely don't want to "future" the whole model or most of it, you can apply it to whole panels or by airbrush, so that the borders of the spots are soft egded.
As for clear flat I have used Testors, Humbrol and Gunze clears with good effects, but they work best applied with an airbrush with light coats. Humbrol once played a mean trick on me turning white after it dried - that was scary. I managed to save the affected model (figures) by covering them with diluted clear varnish (they got the colour back!) and then applying another clear flat.
Good luck with your builds and have a nice day
Paweł
All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!
www.vietnam.net.pl
I have never understood folks advising to 'spot' clear gloss the decals. I think it is bad advice but I've seen some pretty talented modelers advise it and I wonder what they know that I don't.
It makes as much sense to me as priming in black for a surface to be painted in a white or bright yellow. IOW, why create the challenge in the first place?
BTW, I second Tojo, I started using Alclad clears (they have several, in degrees of flatness) a couple years back, love the stuff.
Were it me, I'd gloss over the whole model at this point but that might mess up the already applied weathering and such. But maybe not. I really messed up a matte clear job years back, looked like I'd sprayed milk. Stik advised to gloss over it. Worked the treat, it's one tip that sticks in my useless memory.
Thanks all for the suggestions. I'll coat the entire model in the future (no pun intended!) to avoid the issues caused by the spot application approach...
Never spot apply Future. Use it on the entire model and the apply the flat finish after the Future has cured completly.
Duct tape is like the force. It has a dark side & light side and it holds the universe together.
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