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Neat & Cheap Airbrush Cleaning Tools - Bonus for thin nozzle tips

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  • Member since
    February, 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Neat & Cheap Airbrush Cleaning Tools - Bonus for thin nozzle tips
Posted by EBergerud on Thursday, March 09, 2017 1:17 AM

 

Small Nozzle & Brush Cleaning Tools

 

 

 

Watching a long Ytube video the other night and always interesting Will Pattison started giving tips on cleaning airbrushes – in between steps, an accident. As luck would have it that day Badger had sent me a newsletter in which they said never to use “airbrush cleaning brushes” (pictured on top) because they were too abrasive. The modeler used water and lacquer thinner for solvents – that's fine. He used an inter dental brush (the orange plastic thing at the bottom) to clean the inside of the nozzle. So do I. These things are very inexpensive, available in any drugstore – look at the size of the brush but an extra buck buys better brushes - and work great. He also cut the plastic away from some of his dental brushes leaving the brush attached to about a half inch of thin wire. He used superglue to attach the tips to thin brass rod. (Very easy) You can use that to clean the area well behind the whole where the color cup intersects with the body of the brush – a prime spot for gunkies. (It won't go all the way through the airbrush, but I rarely disassemble everything.) Without removing the tip, the body of the brush will not allow a penetration only to about the bottom of the color cup. The brush on the inter dental is much less abrasive than the dedicated airbrush cleaner and frankly, I'd listen to Badger.

 

 

 

But here's the treat. If you've got a thin nozzle – saw a .15 or .20 mm Harder Steenbeck, he cleans the tip with “Absorbent Paper Points.” They're designed for dentists to clean as they do root canal so they're not rigid, but they do hold together. They're about an inch long and very thin with a slight taper. Sizes are 15-80: any would work, but 40 is perfect for HS .20. They cost about $5 for 200 on Ebay. You can see on size 40 Point with a black end below the brush. You can see another Paper Point sticking easily through the nozzle of the .20 HS Evolution. HS sells a nice $20 metal tool that does about the same thing, but the paper point won't scratch anything. (Nor would it break through a solidly blocked nozzle: hopefully that's rare in your world.)

 

 

 

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[URL=http://s971.photobucket.com/user/ebergerud/media/2017/PaperPt_zpsipfgbuok.jpg.html]

 

 

 

Eric

 

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

  • Member since
    January, 2006
Posted by Paul Budzik on Thursday, March 09, 2017 2:43 PM

Oh gosh ... I wonder where he got the idea for the paper points ...

 

and you won't have any problems scratching anything up if you would keep you airbrush clean this way.

 

  • Member since
    October, 2008
  • From: Fullerton, Calif.
Posted by Don Wheeler on Thursday, March 09, 2017 3:38 PM

EBergerud -- Can you give a link to the video?

Don

https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/home

A collection of airbrush tips and reviews

Now also an Amazon E-book and paperback of tips.

  • Member since
    February, 2010
  • From: Berkeley CA/St. Paul MN
Posted by EBergerud on Thursday, March 09, 2017 5:10 PM

Mr. Buznik:

It's an honor to make your acquaintance. I look at your material the way the ancient Greeks viewed Homer. If I had your skills I'd use your techniques in total (although I admit I think it's fun to weather - I liked to finger paint when I was a kid). I don't have a spray gun, but did get some Duplicolor lacquer filler/sander with a fan cap and it's trumps. I also agree muchly with your comments on panel lines.  Will didn't mention your clips, although he is often claims to have taken information from good modelers on YTube and just passes them on.  I must not have understood the significance of the paper points on your material because I have a Harder Steenbeck .20 and they're just what the doctor or dentist ordered.

BTW: Do you have any opionion on the new (new at least to most modellers) of "black basing?" I'm impressed with what I see - but I'm still working on a ship and won't be back to normal modeling for a few weeks. And please - more videos, they're a real treat.

Anyone wanting to watch Will's video can find it on YouTube: Will Pattison - Episode 134 - "The Bare Metal Adventure Part 4." This is long. I like Will's stuff a lot. He does not claim to be a hall of fame modeler (he's good of course) and I learn buckets from watching him make mistakes and fix them. But he tries everything - goes looking for new ways to do things. Some things work, some don't. He chats a lot about tools and certainly knows paints. He has many "test" videos, many long, with a few step by step builds - his Accurate Miniature B-25B build was ten hours.

Eric

 

A model boat is much cheaper than a real one and won't sink with you in it.

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