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Hi,
It's probably been 50 years since I built a model, and now that I'm retired, I'm getting back to it with the 1:350 Tamiya Enterprise model. (I retired on her in 1995)
I'm also new to airbrushing and have both a single and double action airbrush.
My question pertains to proper painting technique.
For example, in painting the hull, which has three colors, (haze gray, dark red and black), after priming the entire hull, can i just shoot the entire hull with the haze gray, and then paint the dark red and black over it, or should I be masking and painting the 3 colors separetly?
Sorry for the newbie question but like I said it's been a long time.
Thanks in advance!
Mark
On the Workbench:
Tamiya 1:350 USS Enterprise (CVN-65)
Kinetic 1:48 C-2A(R) Greyhound
Kitty Hawk 1:32 T-28B
Hi Mark.
If you primed the hull I would just mask off what needs to be painted myself, be saving a lot of paint
50 years, you will be amazed what you can get for modeling now. Make sure you check out what PE (photo etched) parts you can get for the Enterprise. If you decide to use PE parts grab some 5 second fix from ebay, it's great for PE parts I just discovered, super glue has been retired here. Love to see it when it's finished, she must have some great memories for you.
Mick.
Some stuff that might be interesting.
https://sites.google.com/view/airbrush-and-modeling/home
On The Bench.
Tiger 1 and Tooheys.
Thanks for the reply.
Yeah, I've been doing a ton of research anout different Enterprise builds. Some of them are spectacular, and the PE parts are so much more detailed.
PE parts are great, I also returned to the hobby recently. Tried my hand at PE, and it is NOT easy. Take a tip from me, build a different kit with PE to see what it is all about, else you might just ruin that Enterprise you are so proud of. PE is a different animal, as you can only use CA glue.
In my 1st encounter, some PE would not stick with thin CA, others wont stick with the thicker kind.
My 2c opinion.
Give 5 second fix a go, less than $4 delivered from ebay so nothing to loose, you will love it, not used super glue since I got it.
Snibs Give 5 second fix a go, less than $4 delivered from ebay so nothing to loose, you will love it, not used super glue since I got it. Mick.
Will that work for PE?
Yes it's great, very easy to work with and it will hold a part (surface tension style) and let you move it into the right spot then when your happy with it hit it with the light. You do need to be able to shine the light onto some exposed glue but I have had no problems yet, even if you couldn't get the light to it, it will cure in 24 hours anyway it says. For a few dollars you wont regret it.
Guys are using it for clear parts I read and there happy with it as well, it's also a good gap filler, today I fixed the PE parts on my King Tiger that hold the tools and cables, the holes for the cables are bigger than the parts but I filled the holes with 5SF just above the hole, placed the parts and hit them with the light, worked fantastic, touched up the paint minutes later. Should of taken before and after pics, oh well.
Thinned white glue, gel CA (thick CA), and the laser-set glue can all be used on PE. However, I second the idea of doing a smaller, cheaper kit to get some practice with PE before trying it on a carrier.
In general one paints lighter colors first, followed by darker ones, so your scheme would work okay. Paint is a minor cost on plastic models, compared to kit costs, PE sets, etc., so don't worry about that aspect.
Really good tweezers are necessary for PE work, and clean the points frequently during PE work, keeping the tips glue-free so it will grip the tiny parts well. Also, a clean workbench is a help, and something to catch errant PE parts before they fall on floor. Few kits give extra pieces, and once they are on floor they are truly devilish to find!
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
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