Metalizer - what went wrong?.

That plane looks pissa! I have built a number of planes mostly WWll as a kid and would put the firecrackers to them. Now at 60 i’ve been building them in my spare time, mostly winter cause work slows after Christmas and treat them with kindness. do them to the best of my ability and have been happy with the results, paint everything with a brush and again very happy. The one i’m Working on now is the b17 el lobo, 1:48 scale. after painstakingly painting the interior details ready to start putting parts in fuselage. Thought i’ld Spray exterior to save time, had good results with the p51 I did last year by brush with aluminum enamel, but wanted to try spray can. Bought some buffing aluminum plate and love the look, going to give it another coat and buff it with soft cloth. Questions I have is as follows, as I proceed what about handling as i put things together? should I use a certain glue to avoid any stringy or excess mistakes? Painting the antiglare paint or walkway, deicer boots will all adhere ok? And if I make an error with any top paint how to touch up the metalizer. I really wish I had thought about the stainless, Your panels look so realistic. Any tips on easier way to paint the glass frames

JohnnyK

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This may sound dumb, but I can't find info on if you shoot over unprimed filler and spot putty does it get flashy or have grip problems?  no one  seems to address this, only prime or not to prime. I would greatly appreciate your opinion, thx!

I have been using the stuff since the 90's...it's what I know, so I stick with it. Started with the rattle cans, but now just use the airbrush.

To address your question regarding "extra prep work" (seams, filler, etc)...I stay away from putty. I'm not real good with the stuff and have a hard time getting a perfectly smooth/polished finish out of it. Instead, I'll use plastic (as filler) along with CA...this can easily be sanded smooth and polished, to match the surrounding kit plastic.

Back when I was using rattlecans, I discovered that is I "primed" a few individual panels, I could spray just one "color" of metallizer, and those "primed" panels would have a different texture, which led to a different "color". Neat little trick! These days, using the airbrush, I just use several different shades....and only on bare plastic. I do seal with Minwax gloss lacquer (a quart cost about what 2 little bottles of "Metalizer sealer" costs...) thinned with store brand lacquer thinner. Once sealed, I'll mask (Tamiya tape, de-tacked by sticking it to the palm of my hand a couple times) and spray any other colors (anti-glare, tail bands, ID colors, etc). Having it sealed makes unmasking way less scary, as the Metalizer peels pretty easy....much less so when sealed. After decals, wash, etc...I do flat coat, then buff with a soft cloth to bring back just a little metalic sheen.

This one here is a rattlecan job from about 15 years ago. You can kinda see the difference in tone on the wing panels...the odd colored ones were primed, while the others were left bare...spraybombed the whole thing with "aluminum plate"...

More recent (last year)...airbrushed several shades...sealed...dull coated and buffed...

Tamiya silver leaf from a spray can can be used as a base coat aluminum look.It can be buffed lightly.Testors metalizers can be sprayed in light coats On the Tamiya paint When making panels.Dark to light panels in that order.Non buf colors last.You can seal for decal application with Gouzy shine enchancer gloss which you can get on the web.Testors metalizers is absorb by the Tamiya base coat .Can be masked w/ light Tamiya masking tape..Pull tape slowly.Good luck.

Following is a photo of my B-24 in Testors' Metalizer rattle paint. I used two colors, aluminum and stainless steel.

Cadet Chuck

I guess this is one of those questions that has no real final answer and it depends on our experiences.  I have found that using Testor's Metallizer Buffing spray cans works very well on clean, unprimed plastic.  I buff it manually with a soft cotton cloth, like a piece of an old T-shirt, and it looks fine.  I do not use the metalizer sealer coat, because I found it to dull and darken the finish, and is not really necessary, as once buffed, the paint adheres nicely and does not rub off.

Testor's also has some metallizer sprays that are designated as "non-buffing."  I consider these to be just metallic colored spray laquers.  But they are OK as well.

 

I agree with you. Once the Metalizer is buffed it will not rub off. And yes, their sealer will dull the buffed finish.

I guess this is one of those questions that has no real final answer and it depends on our experiences.  I have found that using Testor's Metallizer Buffing spray cans works very well on clean, unprimed plastic.  I buff it manually with a soft cotton cloth, like a piece of an old T-shirt, and it looks fine.  I do not use the metalizer sealer coat, because I found it to dull and darken the finish, and is not really necessary, as once buffed, the paint adheres nicely and does not rub off.

Testor's also has some metallizer sprays that are designated as "non-buffing."  I consider these to be just metallic colored spray laquers.  But they are OK as well.

I have used Testors Metalizer for a while. I usually spray it directl on unprimed plastic. That results in the smoothest finish. If yoiu must use primer, then the primer must be sanded to a smooth finish. Otherwise the Metalizer will dry with an odd looking texture. I used to buff it with a cotton ball. Now I use a paper blending stick which can be found in the pastel paint section of a craft store. Once dry, the Metalizer can be buffed with the blending stick to produce a very shiny finish. You can press real hard with the blending stick. It will not damage the Metalizer paint. Plus, once the Metalizer is "hard buffed", it will not come off on your fingers. Testors Metalizer Sealer is used to protect the Metalizer finish.

I have not used Metailzer in a while. IMHO, it looks like a painted finish, not a NMF. I now only use Bare Metal Foil to reproduce a metal finish on airplanes. It is a much more realistic finish. 

Hi Plane Nuts ;

   I have tried many of the ideas forwarded here . One that worked for me , was again on a bare plastic ( polished ) surface . I tried" Rub and Buff once . It's a creamy product made for antiqueing picture frames and stuff .

  I applied it to a Y.B.49 . I used their recommended over coat for the final sealed finish . Can you say Never Dull ? That Dad Blamed plane , still not finished , ( I lost some parts ) Still shines like a well cared for silver service !

     I think I will go along with the " Follow the instructions " crowd on this . If Alclad , Use Gloss black as the primer and spray away ! If something else , then follow their recommendations to the letter .        Tanker - Builder          P.S. The reason I keep the incomplete plane around is to see if certain finishes can get the same gloss and finish . So far foiling was and is the best for me .

There seems to be a significant difference of opinion regarding primer and metalizer paints - about half say prime, half say don't prime.  Does the application method account for the difference? I.e., do the rattle-can users say don't prime, and air-brush users advocate priming?

The metalizer paint will come off when touched if not primed first 

Thanks for the input, but I still have a question (not arguing, just looking for info).  I could do bare plastic, but that seems to preclude any seam filling or other touch-up work.  I used the primer so I would have a uniform surface on which to paint, and about 90% of the plane looks great.  How does one rectify the need for bare plastic with the need to do surface work prior to painting?

Cadet Chuck has raised a good point - Testers is quite clear in its instructions to use the Metalizers over bare plastic. It's designed to chemically etch the plastic for adhesion.

When the stuff first hit the market, modelers were instructed to buff and polish the plastic to a high shine before painting. Brasso was commonly recommended to fully prepare the surface for painting.

A little later on, some modelers were experimenting with primers and dark base coats to get variations in color tones for panel effects, but it seemed like a lot of work for only minimal results. Some builders like it, some don't, so it's just personal preference. Personally, I prefer to err on the side of caution and follow the manufacturer's instructions.

If I may had my two cents I use a black gloss enamel primer coat. Then if there is any problems I fix them before the metalizer coats. The buffing metalizer may leave a powder type finish I take a soft cotton rag and lightly buff. This P-51 was painted using Testors metalizer over gloss black.

Testor's metallizer is designed to be used on bare plastic, no primer.

Orange peel is usually due to application - usually a little heavier in spots that others, and solvents gassing out at different rates.

As to the bubbles, off the top of my head, are you running a water trap on your air line?  If not you can get one of the throw away "pumpkin" ones from HF, or any McParts auto parts/paint store.  Might need to get some adapters to go from 1/4 NPT to your fitting size.