Enter keywords or a search phrase below:
I certainly appreciate everyone's input on this. I will make this work!
OK. In the stash: Way too much to build in one lifetime...
Yup. Alclad Black Primer has been nothing but garbage as of late. Use plain old regular Gloss Black enamel as your primer when using Alclad lacquers instead.
Yes a few bare metal F-7s were around and it looks different in NMF. Remember that the NMF 51Ds had puttied wings with laquered silver wings. You can use any silver paint for that. The flaps and the fuse were NMF. The ailerons and rudder were if not mistaken were doped fabric I think, so they had a flatter finish.
The pressure depends on the air brush and your set up. I usually spray at 15-20 PSI and get great results. Hope this helps out.
Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!
Oviedo? So that's what all that noise is! I have never seen a bare metal F7U Cutlass before. I thought they were always white or a light grey. Very well done. Voodoos I've seen a lot of. I grew up not far from McDonnell Aircraft in St. Louis, waay back when.
I have a bottle of Testors gloss black enamel and a bottle of silver enamel. I thought about just shooting the Mustang with the Testors silver enamel like I did years ago.
Where did I read about someone using Testors black enamel under the Alclad?
I still have plenty of Tamiya grey primer I can use. Thinned 1-1 and sprayed in very light coats, I know. My compressor output pressure has been around 20 lbs. maybe up the pressure?
Route 62, I'll be there Saturday for the build day. See you then.
Using LT to remove the paint will more than likely eat into the plastic. You can use cheap thinner from Home Depot. You guys are close to me. I'm in Oviedo And also do Modelpalooza in September.
I forgot to mention, I created a test mule of all the alclad colors I have on both black gloss and grey primer. Let me know if you will be at the build day and I will bring the samples in.
Hi Frank. I think I met you at the Orlando ipms meeting on Monday. If I remember your mustang was a monogram kit. Sanding it down, you will loose much of your raised detail. I would suggest soaking the model in oven cleaner or wiping it down with laquer thinner. This will get rid of most of the paint without loosing detail.
As an alternative sand right on the alclad finish with 4000 grit wet. You don't need to get rid of the current paint, just get it smooth enough for a new coat of the black primer.
I will be at the Sanford build day on sat. Bring the model by and we can all help out.
When I do NMF, be it the airframe, engines or other small parts, prep is key.
Every flaw will show. Once assembly, filling and sanding is done:
This may be overkill in prep but i find the effort worth it with a beautiful finish.
I use Alclad a lot and what GH mentioned is correct IF you are using a high Shine Alclad like chrome, polished aluminum, etc. The Alclad is applied over the gloss black which gives depth with each light coat. The trick here is to let some of the black come thru. The black has to be smooth as glass otherwise it will not look good.
If you want a weathered finish then use either white or grey primer and again, it has to be very smooth. The grey or white primer will produce an oxidiced finish. You can use tamiya's white and grey primers which are excellent.
If you get a grainy finish then either you had dust, junk or sprayed too far away from the surface. Alclad will dry within seconds.
You can get very realistic looking metal tones with Alclad over a glass smooth surface as with my Voodoo and Cutlass. Both were painted with Polished Auminum and Airframe Aluminum Alclad paints over Testors gloss black enamel so. Double click on the pictures for closeups.
Yeah, it seems that way back in my "enamel days" this was a lot easier. The local hobby shop only had the Alclad flat black primer though. I'm gonna have to get the gloss black online I guess.
Thanks for all the encouragement, y'all. I'm needin' it.
Wingman_kzSorry to hear that man. You'll get it. Do you have an empty milk or water jug you could practice on? That might help. Paint in general shows every flaw and metal finishes are the worst.
Wingman is right, the thin airbrush paint coats show anything left behind in preparation, metal finishes are the most critical.
Once you have sanded it clean, give it a good blow down with just air at a high pressure, then a wash and rinse, followed by a wipe with clean alcohol on cotton pad. I also like the little tack rags, available in lot's of stores.
Sorry to read you are having problems, but you're at the same point most of us have been. Learning how to correct this will help you to be able to avoid it in the future.
Hope you "git er done" now.
Patrick
My understanding is that Alclad needs to go over a gloss black base for the best results. I am planning on playing with it soon, and the modeler at my LHS that handles it told me to apply in very light mist coats that you can just barely see going on until you get coverage. Will find out as I work with it.
As many of you know, I primed my Revell 1/48 P-51 last week. Today I tried to paint it. I bought some Micro Mesh pads the other day and wet sanded the airplane with the 6000 grit pad to smooth out the primer. I had decided to paint the Mustang with Alclad II Aluminum. I know Alclad is tough to work with but I like the finish, not highly polished like most restored Mustangs we see today, like Crazy Horse, just enough to look like metal skin. Apparently I didn't wet sand the primer enough, the finished job looked like the airplane had been painted in the backyard on a windy day! Just awful. Now I'm wet sanding with a 1500 grit pad, the most coarse pad in the package, to get the paint and primer off. Then, I'll re-prime the airplane, this time with Alclad's black primer, and try to paint again. This is not the way I envisioned this renewed interest in an old hobby would transpire.
Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.