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NMF on a LARGE model - what paint?

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  • Member since
    May, 2004
  • From: Land of Lakes
NMF on a LARGE model - what paint?
Posted by cbaltrin on Monday, July 10, 2017 1:02 PM

Just curios what paint you guys would choose for a large aircraft like a 48th scale B-29? Seems like it would take weeks to cover the whole thing with alclad not to mention the cost.. is there a lacquer automotive paint with accepably fine grain?  Thanks

  • Member since
    January, 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Monday, July 10, 2017 2:23 PM

I use rattle can silver paint - 2 or 3 light coats should do it.

  • Member since
    March, 2015
Posted by JohnnyK on Monday, July 10, 2017 9:16 PM

I used to use Testors Metalizer paint from a rattle can. I painted a B-24 with one can. The B-29 is a large model. I would guess that 3 cans should be enough. However, you will need Testors Metalizer Sealer also.

 

  • Member since
    January, 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Monday, July 10, 2017 10:38 PM

I'd skip on the metalizer kind only because you have to add a sealer on top of it all. Simple silver paint is suffice IMO. Tamiya has Bare Metal Silver in rattle can so I'd use that instead. 

Keep in mind, any aircraft as NMF are not shiny in service.

  • Member since
    May, 2004
  • From: Land of Lakes
Posted by cbaltrin on Wednesday, July 12, 2017 6:24 AM

BlackSheepTwoOneFour

I'd skip on the metalizer kind only because you have to add a sealer on top of it all. Simple silver paint is suffice IMO. Tamiya has Bare Metal Silver in rattle can so I'd use that instead. 

Keep in mind, any aircraft as NMF are not shiny in service.

 

 

Thanks.  Is the Tamiya Bare Meta Silver maskable?

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, July 12, 2017 12:10 PM

I question the high cost of Alclad.  A bottle costs eight dollars, versus four for the MM enamel I use.  But Alclad is so thin as sold in the bottle, and the secret to the Alclad finish is to put it down very thin (which, being thin itself, allows you to cut paint flow way back).  So I only use half as much of the stuff as I do enamel.  You do need a good base coat.  That does add a bit for paint cost.

But lets face it- the cost of paint for our models is minimal compared to the cost of the kit, and PE and resin upgrade aftermarket (which I find often doubles cost).

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    July, 2004
  • From: Sunny So. Cal... The OC
Posted by stikpusher on Wednesday, July 12, 2017 5:50 PM

Do a Korean War B-29 with black undersides and you cut your NMF paint requirements in half Wink

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    April, 2009
  • From: Lowell City, Mars
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Wednesday, July 12, 2017 8:47 PM

I have built three jumbo models- Star Trek 1/350 NX-01, a 1/72 B-36, and the Forbidden Planet C-57D.  Because of their size, I decided to use big rattle cans of Krylon paint.  They make a number of choices of NMF finishes, and I found it to work out quite well.  I would recommend doing it outside or in a garage, as the dust that precipitated from 6 or 8 coats of this stuff really had a lot of "fall-out".  Dusted everything in my basement, and I still have some of it hanging around from years ago!  Hack-Kaff!   And of course, a respirator is necessary!

Dead

Computer, did we bring batteries?.....Computer?

  • Member since
    January, 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Wednesday, July 12, 2017 8:52 PM

Cadet Chuck

I have built two jumbo models- Star Trek 1/350 NX-01, and the Forbidden Planet C-57D.  Because of their size, I decided to use big rattle cans of Krylon paint.  

 

 

NOPE! Krylon are garbage. Ask me how I know. Krylon is on my ban list of paint brands.

Yes Tamiya in rattle can is maskable as long as you use Tamiya tape or Frog Yellow tape from Walmart.

 

Stik - 

Now that would be an awesome scheme!!

  • Member since
    April, 2009
  • From: Lowell City, Mars
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Wednesday, July 12, 2017 9:00 PM

Blacksheep- I would be interested in knowing what problems you had with Krylon.  It worked ok for me, although I have only used it those large models, because of their size.

Chuck

Computer, did we bring batteries?.....Computer?

  • Member since
    July, 2004
  • From: Sunny So. Cal... The OC
Posted by stikpusher on Wednesday, July 12, 2017 9:55 PM

BlackSheepTwoOneFour

 

 

Stik - 

Now that would be an awesome scheme!!

 

Well once the Migs appeared over North Korea, the B-29 was as vulnerable as the heavies over Germany in 1943, even with escort. The MiG-15's armament was optimized for killing bombers. So they switched to night bombing.

Of course they launched and recovered in daylight. And occasionally bombed south of Mig Alley in daylight.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    September, 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Wednesday, July 12, 2017 11:04 PM

Don Stauffer

I question the high cost of Alclad.  A bottle costs eight dollars, versus four for the MM enamel I use.  But Alclad is so thin as sold in the bottle, and the secret to the Alclad finish is to put it down very thin (which, being thin itself, allows you to cut paint flow way back).  So I only use half as much of the stuff as I do enamel.  You do need a good base coat.  That does add a bit for paint cost.

But lets face it- the cost of paint for our models is minimal compared to the cost of the kit, and PE and resin upgrade aftermarket (which I find often doubles cost).

 

I like that way of thinking. I painted my 1/72 B-36 with Alclad. It took maybe 4-5 bottles, in at least three shades of aluminum or magnesium. By then I had spent so many hours correcting just about every feature of that old kit that the $$ wasn't a big factor. Made we reconsider 1/144 though.

  • Member since
    March, 2015
Posted by JohnnyK on Thursday, July 13, 2017 9:31 AM

How about this as an alternative for paint as a NMF---Bare Metal Foil. I know that this may seem insane, but I am currently working on a 1/48 scale B-29 in Bare Metal Foil. 

 

 

  • Member since
    January, 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Thursday, July 13, 2017 10:45 AM

JohnnyK

How about this as an alternative for paint as a NMF---Bare Metal Foil. I know that this may seem insane, but I am currently working on a 1/48 scale B-29 in Bare Metal Foil. 

 

 

 

 

Hope you lots of money for that. Also, consider whether or not decals will adhere to that stuff. Weathering? Forget about it. I'd say no on Bare Metal Foil. You'll have to buy multiple packages for a 1/48 scale bomber.

  • Member since
    July, 2004
  • From: Sunny So. Cal... The OC
Posted by stikpusher on Thursday, July 13, 2017 11:13 AM

BlackSheepTwoOneFour

 

 
JohnnyK

How about this as an alternative for paint as a NMF---Bare Metal Foil. I know that this may seem insane, but I am currently working on a 1/48 scale B-29 in Bare Metal Foil. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hope you lots of money for that. Also, consider whether or not decals will adhere to that stuff. Weathering? Forget about it. I'd say no on Bare Metal Foil. You'll have to buy multiple packages for a 1/48 scale bomber.

 

One can also use foil from the store. Microscale makes an adhesive that you apply to the model or foil to bond the two together. One of these days I'm gonna try the foil method for NMF. Decals adhere to foil. They adhere to most anything if you're not careful.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    January, 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Thursday, July 13, 2017 12:49 PM

Spider webbing, cracking. I sprayed in several light coats. Oh yeah - they were brand new rattle cans too. Never again I will use Krylon.

  • Member since
    April, 2013
Posted by KnightTemplar5150 on Thursday, July 13, 2017 1:23 PM

[quote user="BlackSheepTwoOneFour"

Hope you lots of money for that. Also, consider whether or not decals will adhere to that stuff. Weathering? Forget about it. I'd say no on Bare Metal Foil. You'll have to buy multiple packages for a 1/48 scale bomber.

 

[/quote]

Weathering BMF isn't difficult. FSM writer Bucky Sheftall published several articles in the magazine during the 90's in which he detailed his approach and I've played around with his technique a few times since. It uses aluminum foil and Microscale adhesive, so the costs are limited. Bucky's advice was to pay attention to the grain of the metal to create different "tones" on individual panels and to use steel wool to smooth edges and achieve even more tonal variation. When complete, the foil is sealed and weathering goes about as usual, using various washes and pastels to achieve various effects, then another coat of sealer.

A lot of work? No more than what was being preached as gospel for metal finishes at the time. We were lectured to polish the plastic with micro grade sandpaper and to use metal polish to get bare plastic as reflective as possible before applying paint and then instructed to polish the paint after it had cured. In a lot of ways, Bucky's technique was easier.

Covering a Superfortress completely in BMF isn't anything new and it's been done many times with great results. A labor of love - time intensive, challenging, and maybe a bit expensive, but if you're ready to tackle a project like that, be sure to share it with the forum!

 

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