Dealing with overspray...

I discussed this overspray issue with Route 62 yesterday. He suggested that I have reached the operational limit of my Badger 200 airbrush. I have thought about upgrading to a dual action airbrush recently. I think a dual action airbrush will give me more control and flexibility when painting my airplanes. I watched Aaron Skinner's new video about post shading. Of course he uses a dual action airbrush. He certainly seemed to have more control of color application with his airbrush than I do with my single action airbrush. Which means, I'll be looking for a new dual action airbrush this coming weekend at Modelpalooza!

Thanks everyone for your input on this issue. Having been back in the hobby for only a few months, everything is still pretty new to me. I guess I still can have a yellow rookie stripe on my back bumper even after all these years.

Yup... rushing thru things is more a cause of errors than anything else...

Future can show fingerprints as well before it cures... 

gloves are a good idea to combat fingerprints, but I prefer soft cotton gloves to any latex or vinyl gloves... at least cotton breathes. 

Personally, your method of using Future is a bit odd and a waste of time especially because you wanted to "avoid fingerprints." All you need to do is let the paint dry and cure to harden completely before handling it. 

Don't know about how well it works on future- I usually finish all painting before any clearcoating, including any paint touchups.  But, for little goofs on paint, I use about 1500 or so sandpaper.  It takes off very thin layers of paint quite slowly.

fotofrank

Fermis, Your avatar. Is that you in the back seat of a T-6?

Yes sir.

That ride was a blast! Goes back to 2000, when I was working on my private ticket. One of the guys that worked at the airport gave me 3 Revellogram T-6 kits, asked if I could build one for the T-6 owner, one for him and the other was for me. I had him set me up with the owner, so I could take some pics (he was based at another close by airport). I get there, jawjack a bit while taking pics. When I had all the pics I needed, he said "alright, let's go for a ride!" Even got some stick time for my logbook!

The following week, I got a surprise ride in a Stearman...with a little stick time as well. Unfortunately, I didn't have my camera with me.

stikpusher

Just curious, but why did you add the Future at this stage? I wait until all the basic colors are done and the build is ready for decal before I add any clear coats, Future or other. After the decals are on, then it's time for washes, so that they will match the surrounding areas. A sealing coat of Future over the decals before any washes won't hurt.

 

I wanted to seal the O.D. before I shot the neutral gray so I wouldn't get any finger prints on the paint, even though I wear those blue gloves when I paint. Like I said, this Pledge/Future stuff is new to me, but I like the idea. After the decals are on, I can seal the decals, do all the detailing and weathering and when that's all done, finish it off with a coat of Dullcote. It might be overkill, but it worked OK on my Staggerwing.

Just curious, but why did you add the Future at this stage? I wait until all the basic colors are done and the build is ready for decal before I add any clear coats, Future or other. After the decals are on, then it's time for washes, so that they will match the surrounding areas. A sealing coat of Future over the decals before any washes won't hurt.

But like Fermis says, it isn't great stuff. It can run really easily, and it causes all kinds of problems with some paints, for instance Humbrol enamel makes a mess. 

I'm no expert like Jeremy, but I only ever use it as a gloss base for decals after all of the painting is done, and then it needs to be flat coated. 

Or as a base over paint on which to put oil paint/ turpenoid washes.

As has been noted, it's a clear acrylic.

Fermis, Your avatar. Is that you in the back seat of a T-6?

I wondered about using poster tack for these two airplanes but was unsure as to how to use it as a mask. When I do my 332 FG P-40F, I'll try the worms to separate the two colors of the topside camo. I have two packs of the poster tack stuff in my tool box. As to the 332 FG P-40F, I really like thses AMT P-40 kits. The detail is excellent. With what AMT made available with these kits, the only P-40s you aren't able to build is the P-40B/C and the P-40Q. Airfix has the best P-40B kit available right now and the P-40Q? Is there still one out there?

Anyway, I "fixed" the overspray problem by shooting O.D. again over the neutral gray overspray. That worked pretty well. I set the PSI to 10/11 lbs on the compressor and set my Badger 200 single-action to the smallest spray pattern I could get and went to work. After spraying the O.D., I sprayed the planes with Pledge again to seal the flat paint.

This Pledge/Future application is very new to me. Back in the 60s and 70s, when I was doing this, the support we have today wasn't available. Back then I was unaware of the IPMS. The only modeling publication I knew about was Scale Modeler magazine. I don't remember any article that mentioned sealing flat paint with clear liquid floor wax.

So, the A-24 and the P-40 are about ready for decals and some detailing.

Try windex. It'll disolve the Future, which should take the gray paint with it.

Kind of sounds like a mess waiting to happen. 

I have little experience with Future...other than using it as a gloss on 2 models...and I hated it! So, I can't offer any tips there.

However, getting a "soft edge" camo pattern and no overspray...is pretty simple.

I do have the capability of free-handing a good camo pattern, even down in 1/72 scale. BUT, I still almost always mask. I have found that it takes less time to mask than it does to carefully free-hand. For a soft edge, (for arguments sake, we'll just say we're doing a two tone...grey belly, OD top)I'll spray the lightest color first, grey belly...let dry. Mask with regular masking tape, a little below where the demarcation line is to be...then I'll roll out some "worms", using poster tack. The poster tack is easy to manipulate into the proper position, for your line. The other side of the "worm" should cover the tapes edge. This is pretty fool proof, with very little "learning curve".

A little about the poster tack, if you're not aware. I use 3M brand, found at any office supply store, or even in your local grocery store in the little office supply section. When the stuff is new, it has a lot more stick to it, and when you peel it off the model, it will leave some behind. This left behind stuff can be removed by sticking a blob of the stuff to the residue, repeatedly. There will still be evidence of it having been there, you'll see it in the underlying paint, but as long as you have any chunks removed, the remaining marks will disappear when you hit it with the clear coat. As you use the stuff over time, and paint gets mixed into it, it gets less sticky and easier to use...the only thing is, before you use it, you'll need to knead it, twist it, stretch it...this will also warm it up a little and give it some sticking power. I have a blob of the stuff (about the size opf a racket ball) that I've been using since the 90's...highly recommended!!! As with anything new...try it out on some scrap!

If ya have any questions about it, don't hesitate to ask!

I've really only worked in acrylics, but Future being the same it leaves out Windex as an option, and the enamel thinner is to harsh, a little alcohol? In the past I 've tried buffing it out and even very fine sand paper depending on the scale of overspray and the amount of weathering it will receive, that and the hope that a flat coat will help blend it all in. Curious to know your solution.

I think I've answered my own question. I tested the thinner on an obscure spot on the A-24 and the P-40. The Testors paint thinner is a little too aggressive. Even blotting a Q-Tip until it's almost dry. Looks like I'm going to try to cover the gray overspray with O.D. Wish me luck...