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Old paint

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  • Member since
    July, 2008
  • From: Albany, NY
Old paint
Posted by jeffpez on Tuesday, October 10, 2017 6:44 AM

In my stash of paint I recently found a bottle of Model Master enamel with a price sticker on the lid from a store that closed in January '96. It cost $1.39 and I certainly got my money's worth because I just used it and it works fine. Now all I need to do is to figure out how to keep my body as good as it was all those years ago.

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, October 10, 2017 9:14 AM

The problem with Model Master enamels is that once you do open them, they go bad pretty quick.  They are okay for a reasonable build time, but if you use only half a bottle on a kit and put it back on the shelves, in half a year to a year it will go bad- turn into a piece of sponge like material.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    September, 2016
Posted by Retired In Kalifornia on Tuesday, October 10, 2017 11:07 PM

jeffpez

In my stash of paint I recently found a bottle of Model Master enamel with a price sticker on the lid from a store that closed in January '96. It cost $1.39 and I certainly got my money's worth because I just used it and it works fine. Now all I need to do is to figure out how to keep my body as good as it was all those years ago.

Good for you! Bought dozens of factory sealed Humbrol tins over 10 years ago, those I've opened still in very good condition, most of those I've opened & used hold up well so long as "snap sealed" with bit of thinner & stirred before sealing.

Don Stauffer

The problem with Model Master enamels is that once you do open them, they go bad pretty quick.  They are okay for a reasonable build time, but if you use only half a bottle on a kit and put it back on the shelves, in half a year to a year it will go bad- turn into a piece of sponge like material.

Lost 1/2 bottle of Model Master RLM 65 last year after using twice, didn't properly stir before sealing. Model Masters I've used tend to be thick, lots of thinning & stirring necessary, use Humbrol equivalents whenever possible, they're much easier to work with IMHO.

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