Enter keywords or a search phrase below:
I also started using MLT with Tamiya for the same reasons Mike pointed out. I read something about it a while back on Doogs AT web site. He mentioned using MLT with Tamiya clear gloss then shooting pure MLT over the gloss to blend everything together for a super smooth and glossy finish.
Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!
MM66 and all others interested, the reason Mr. Leveling Thinner works well with Tamiya paints is that MLT is a "slow" lacquer thinner, i.e; the level of volatile evaporative materials is less than that in medium or fast reducers. I know this because I do some cabinet work, and in summer it's necessary to use a slower drying reducer so that the finish doesn't dry before it can blend and level.. Tamiya acrylics are pretty hot and tend to dry very fast, so the MLT gives the paint more time to "chill" and level to a smoother finish.
Mike
Tamiya works very well with lacquer thinners. It gives a great spray coat with the airbrush. Vallejo, model master, ak, ammo, citadel all HATE lacquer thinners and will gum up your airbrush. I only use lacquer thinners or Mr. model leveling thinners with Tamiya. It works with it for some reason.
plasticjunkie It's best to stay with each manufacturer's thinner for best results. What works with one doesn't work with another. This is the best way to avoid surprises and get the most out of the product.
It's best to stay with each manufacturer's thinner for best results. What works with one doesn't work with another. This is the best way to avoid surprises and get the most out of the product.
Absolutely. Nothing wrong with experimenting, however. Just do not experiment on a good model! There are many cheap materials, such as blister pack material, styrene signs, scraps left over from previous builds, etc.
In a couple of modeling clubs I belong to, guys are buying plastic spoons in packages for test plastic. A lot of experimenting going on with NMF stuff like Alclad and the new Vellejo stuff (did some experiments on that stuff before using it on my recent KC-97 build).
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
Understood. I guess I was curious in what way lacquer thinner with acrylics like Tamiya's (i.e. alcohol-based) would change their properties.
This is a semantics question. There are several ways to describe or classify paints. Paints usually are made up of pigments, a vehicle, and a solvent. Some classifications refer to the vehicle used, others the solvent.
Note that there are acrylic lacquers and acrylic solvents. I believe when we say acrylic paints, we normally are referring to the vehicle, wheras the term lacquer thinner refers to the solvent.
I would add that using the incorrect thinner can lead to disaster. I had used gunze acrylic paints for years and thined 1:1 with isopropyl alcohol with great results. I stepped out of the hobby for 3 years and now can only get gunze Mr Color. Hated them at first until i learened they are lacquer based and thin with lacquer thinner. My fist attempts thinning with alcohol were really bad. Im on board now as I treat them just like enamels and thin with lacquer thinner.
Thanks,
John
No, using a different reducer does not magically change the paint.
It's an acrylic paint and will remain so, whether you use water, alcohol, acrylic thinner or lacquer thinner as a reducer.
As long as the base coat is fully cured and you apply the top coats lightly, it shouuldn't be a problem.
Does using lacquer thinner with acrylic paint essentially turn it into a lacquer paint for the purposes of e.g. spraying further layers of lacquer paint on top (i.e. preventing additional layers of lacquer paint from obliterating the acrylic)?
For instance, if I thin Tamiya acrylics with their lacquer thinner, would I be able to then spray actual lacquer paint on top of that (after it cures, of course)?
I was planning to experiment but figured I'd ask the forums, too.
Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.