Specific brush painting problem with flat white.

I suspect that Humbrol may have recently changed their formulation. The other day I was brush painting an aircraft build using their paints and noticed similar results. Certainly with the lightest colors. They did not flow as well or cover as well as they used to in the past. 

As to your particular problem here, why not airbrush the hull sides white, then hand brush the darker color patterns over that. White is always something of a beast color to hand brush, no matter which brand.

I hate white paint... and yellow paint.  Airbrush only as far as I'm concerned.  Perhaps this you could use 'sausages' like I did on this little spit and airbrush.  Seems like a good application.

White (and yellow) are best achieved by airbrushing or rattle can - paint by brush... not so much.

I tried to airbrush the Humbrol  flat white but had to thin it so much to spray that it sagged when dry,  then I had to sand again.

The tins were brand new BTW, so maybe there is a change in formula.  Also the Humbrol is slightly off-white and not as pure white as say Tamiya is. 

I don't like using the silly putty technique, which is why I didn't.  It's a very large model.

Testors flat white in the 3 oz rattle  can may be the answer, just on the sides, then paint the darker colors.  That Testors flat white in the rattle can is totally opaque.

I appreciate all the help men.

You have two ways to deal with air brushing the Humbrol white... dial down the air pressure for the mix you used, or have a lower thinner to paint ratio and increase the air pressure. 

Wilbur Wright

My question is how opaque is Valejjo Acrylics flat white and can they be brush painted over an area lets say 1-1/2 inches by 5 inches without rolling up like Tamiya does.

I haven't tried the whites but Vallejo Model Color generally brushes quite well and doesn't lift underlying layers. There is a White Grey (70993) in the Model Color range which is a very slightly off-white which may be of interest to you.

I hesitate to reply because I can't answer your question- I don't use Vallejo paints.

I would always say that white only really works over...white.

It's funny, I'm building a car model and I lie awake looking at the ceiling trying to figure out the order in which to layer colors.

There's been some statements about spray cans being for kids only, but look, white out of a spray can can't be beat. I go with Tamiya Fine White. And their gray isn't far behind.

They now majke the gray in fine and it's amazing, great for models where the finish coat is white.

Contradiction? No, that gray is like a 3 pms, really light.

BTW that Spitfire is fine looking.

I know a number of people who do great work with spray cans.  In my model car club the use of spray cans is quite popular.  One rage in the club now is Rustoleum's Painter's Touch line. It is a heavy spray, not good for small scale with fine detail, but it puts down a great gloss finish.

I often paint hulls of ships by spray can.  I even find light gray primers that match the light gray I need on some warship hulls.

But for white, I usually use white over white primer. In fact, with a good white prime coat I find no reason to cover it with a flat white- the primer becomes the white finish coat with other colors over that.

Hi; 

 Sometimes , what I do is paint light aircraft grey in those places and then when dry go to white . it's a layering process that if done lightly , will leave no brushmarks . 

 There are other Camo patterns and you chose the hardest .Oh , I know , this is what references show . A lot had simpler designs .

 I have many Vosper Boats of various types in all types of camo , languishing in my "British Patrol Boats" Box in the Garage .

I have decided to paint the sides of the boat with Testors 3oz rattle can flat white.  I have already wet sanded down the mess from before.  I will do one side at a time keeping the side flat and horizontal for no runs/sags, then next day do the other side.   That coat will be the finish coat of white.

It should then be routine to hand brush cut-in the medium gray and the flat sea blue.  I have good brushes as well.

Luckily there wasn't much camo on the top superstructure very fine detail or I would have been in a real mess.  The sides are flat and easy to correct, once the portholes are masked properly.  

One of the reasons I wanted to build this was because of the great camo scheme.  There are 2 or 3  B&W photos in existance of the actual boat. Which helps some.

I'll post in the ship forum when I get futher along. It's a terrific unique model with some great detail, and I have the figures as well.

I think most brush painters spray with white primer since brush painting white on large areas is pretty tough.  The best I can do is with Testors flat White enamels, with 3 coats, then apply gloss for decals followed by dulling for flat finish.  Here are some samples where I brushed white Testors on a blue model.  The model is just some scraps I probably picked up at a garage sale so no model was harmed.  This is after 2 coats of white and a gloss applied when dried. You can definately tell it is brush painted. The second fuselage side you see was brush painted with 4 coats of acrylic white.