Iwata eclipse hp-cs trigger sticky at low psi

drumsfield

....but it's been on constantly since I got it...

I'm not quite sure what this means but if you mean it's been hooked up to a compressor which is turned on, that's not the best for the a/b from what I understand.

I always turn off the compressor and bleed the pressurized air out (simply by pressing the trigger on my airbrushes) after I used it/them.

I have had my Iwata HP-CS trigger get a bit sticky from time to time. I used to use a drop of the Iwata lube you mentioned, but it seemed to sticky-up and get worse, and I read some supporting info on that. I have been using a drop Badger's Regdab Needle Juice from time to time, seems to work ok.

This is some info for you to chew on, I have same airbrush as you but I'm not as good with airbrushes as many here who hopefully will chime in and help you.

By constantly on I mean I use it basically every day. I turn off the compressor when I'm done. 

Yea I've read somewhere that the lube generally makes the stickiness worse. 

Got it. Sorry I misundertood.

On the rare occasions my HP-CS stickys-up, which is always because of an incomplete cleaning and extended sit time in my case, a complete tear down, clean with laquer thinner, and a bit of Regdab brings me back to like-new. Knock wood.

Does it stick going up/down or back/forward? Or both?

On the HP-CS I have, I found that after back-flowed to mix or clean, that some of whatever was in the color cup would get behind the needle packing bearing and eventually leak down below the trigger and cause the O-ring between the air valve and the airbrush body to swell.  This would cause my air release portion of the trigger pull to be spongy and sticky.

So, i'd recommend two things. First, check to make sure that the needle packing bearing between the trigger body and the paint cup is properly tightened, this will prevent paint/lacquer thinner/whatever from getting into the air valve mechanism.  Second, take apart the air valve and clean it and let the little tiny o-ring between the air valve and the airbrush body to dry out over night or so.  Then, when you reassemble use some of the lube provided with the airbrush.

Edit:  As a note, it is possible that you might just want to buy a new O-ring to replace the one that's swelled up.

What is Regdab?  I wanna try it on my airbrush.

It’s an airbrush lubricant that comes in 1oz bottles (which should last nearly a lfetime). Can be purchased on Amazon for around $6 USD

How's it compare to the stuff that comes with an Eclipse?

You can see a comparison of Regdab with Iwata Superlube at the bottom of this page.  Regdab is Badger spelled backwards.

A sticky trigger is fairly common in Iwatas.  The trigger pin passes through a rubber O-ring in the body.  Iwata advises to pull the trigger and put a dab of Superlube in the opening.  That works until the Superlube gets gummy.  Regdab might last longer.

Don

Yes I agree with Don I just work Through it 

Don Wheeler

You can see a comparison of Regdab with Iwata Superlube at the bottom of this page.  Regdab is Badger spelled backwards.

A sticky trigger is fairly common in Iwatas.  The trigger pin passes through a rubber O-ring in the body.  Iwata advises to pull the trigger and put a dab of Superlube in the opening.  That works until the Superlube gets gummy.  Regdab might last longer.

Don

 

Thanks Don I'll give that a try.

I have been using my hp-cs for about 10 years and the trigger will get sticky. The easiest fix for me is to apply a couple of drops of water on the trigger!