Tips on painting metallic colors?

Lesson learned, and by me the hard way, Never, and I mean never use Vallejo primer for ANYTHING as, in my inept experience, it's utter crap! I'm new to modeling after not having built anything in over 55 years so I hope you get things worked out smoothly. ;)

Give BMF a try on a P-47. You have nothing to lose and everything to gain. You have no idea what you are capable of unless you try.

JohnnyK

Drumsfield,

I understand your frustration in trying to duplicate a real NMF by using paint. I gave that up years ago. The dust, fuzz, scratches and grit drove me nuts. I now use Bare Metal Foil to simulate a NMF finish. It looks like metal because it is metal.

 

I followed your thread on that plane. It's goregeous. I know I will be frustrated now, probably will take a break for a few weeks to gather mayself before moving forward. The stuff I'm learning on this forum has been priceless. Thanks. 

KnightTemplar5150

I know that there are plenty of folks out there who recommend priming with products outside of the Alclad line, but that's never worked out well for me. If you follow their instructions to the letter and use what they recommend, it's a very easy system to use. 

Frustration 1: Any NMF finish demands excellent surface prep to be effective. Use a Micro Mesh sanding system for smoothing out the plastic, making sure to eliminate all traces of scratches and swirls. Paint doesn't hide sins - metallic paints just magnify the flaws. Back in the '90s, the rule of thumb was to go back over things with a plastic polish to get the plastic reflective. Once primed, any residual flaws can be further sanded and polished if needed. Use the Alclad gloss black undercoat (not a primer; this is a glossy black lacquer) and don't overcoat it with anything but Alclad when cured. 

Light coats are the key to this system. I've never used an entire bottle on a single model, including 1/32 scale. You may have used an unusual amount because you were trying to cover the Tamiya paint.

Used properly and by manufacturer recommendations, Alclad Polished Aluminum results in a mirrored finish that is highly reflective, but light coats are key. Too much paint takes away from that mirror finish, so know when to stop.

#2: Dust is a part of the game. Use the Micro Mesh to buff it out, or better still, put your freshly painted model in a sealed Tupperware storage box to keep out the dust while the paint dries and cures.

 

#3: Micro Sol is a mild acetic acid, but an acid nevertheless. Letting it dry on the surface of a metal finish gives it time to etch the paint. Once your decal is in place, clean up any excess running over your paint immediately with a wet towel or cotton buds. You want it solely on the surface of the decal, but not in big puddles. Think of it as akin to a clear paint - light coats, only over the decal, and clean it up before it has a chance to start etching. Most decals require only Micro Set, so be extra careful using the Sol.

HTH

 

Great advice. Thanks 

Drumsfield,

I understand your frustration in trying to duplicate a real NMF by using paint. I gave that up years ago. The dust, fuzz, scratches and grit drove me nuts. I now use Bare Metal Foil to simulate a NMF finish. It looks like metal because it is metal.

I know that there are plenty of folks out there who recommend priming with products outside of the Alclad line, but that's never worked out well for me. If you follow their instructions to the letter and use what they recommend, it's a very easy system to use. 

Frustration 1: Any NMF finish demands excellent surface prep to be effective. Use a Micro Mesh sanding system for smoothing out the plastic, making sure to eliminate all traces of scratches and swirls. Paint doesn't hide sins - metallic paints just magnify the flaws. Back in the '90s, the rule of thumb was to go back over things with a plastic polish to get the plastic reflective. Once primed, any residual flaws can be further sanded and polished if needed. Use the Alclad gloss black undercoat (not a primer; this is a glossy black lacquer) and don't overcoat it with anything but Alclad when cured. 

Light coats are the key to this system. I've never used an entire bottle on a single model, including 1/32 scale. You may have used an unusual amount because you were trying to cover the Tamiya paint.

Used properly and by manufacturer recommendations, Alclad Polished Aluminum results in a mirrored finish that is highly reflective, but light coats are key. Too much paint takes away from that mirror finish, so know when to stop.

#2: Dust is a part of the game. Use the Micro Mesh to buff it out, or better still, put your freshly painted model in a sealed Tupperware storage box to keep out the dust while the paint dries and cures.

#3: Micro Sol is a mild acetic acid, but an acid nevertheless. Letting it dry on the surface of a metal finish gives it time to etch the paint. Once your decal is in place, clean up any excess running over your paint immediately with a wet towel or cotton buds. You want it solely on the surface of the decal, but not in big puddles. Think of it as akin to a clear paint - light coats, only over the decal, and clean it up before it has a chance to start etching. Most decals require only Micro Set, so be extra careful using the Sol.

HTH