Masking windows on modle planes

QUOTE: Originally posted by Tailspinturtle If the lines aren't there or indistinct (or wrong ? - sand them off, polish and apply Future), try putting temporary frames on with masking tape cut to width with a sharp knife. Then use whatever masking material that you're comfortable with, carefully remove the temporary frames, insure that the masking material is down tight and airbrush.

No offense, but I will try reposting this in the Aircraft section in hopes that I will get help from someone who has built this model (and faced my difficulty) Thanks though. It looks like I will have to cut extrememly narrow pieces of tape.

If the lines aren't there or indistinct (or wrong ? - sand them off, polish and apply Future), try putting temporary frames on with masking tape cut to width with a sharp knife. Then use whatever masking material that you're comfortable with, carefully remove the temporary frames, insure that the masking material is down tight and airbrush.

Has anyone masked the nose turret of a PBY Black Cat? The lines are almost not there and the surface is smooth.

I use thin strips of 3M masking tape for compound curves. For large complex greenhouses I like to use Black Magic masks. Rarely for domes I will use masking fluid.

Theres a great article in this month's FSM (in the UK at least) on this very subject. Its the first time I've bought the mag, and it was only for that article! I've not been able to use the techniques yet, but they look great, you should check it out. 3 sections for masking tape, metal foil and liquid mask agent.

All the best

keith

i mask with baremetal foil bearubc. it is very thin and delicate and you can cut a square off the sheet and peel the backing off and stick it to the canopy. burnish it down with a rounded toothpick or buy a burnishing tool from an arts and crafts store. it is so thin that it will conform to every little nook and cranny of a canopy or anything else you may want to mask. i wouldnt let it stay over a couple of days as it will leave a residue. the residue will come off with goo gone though. later.

Thanks for the tip music City i will give your way a try

Bearubc

Masking canopies is tough. There are usually several panes and complex curves to deal with, plus the lines have to be straight and you have to be careful not to scratch the clear plastic.

There have been several posts here about it so you'll probably get several answers. This is just how I do it.

The first thing I do is mask the INSIDE of the canopy. I do this for two reasons: 1) So I don't forget it (I did that once and ruined a canopy) and 2) Because my hands are always very dry and dry skin can leave scratches on the plastic!

Next comes the outside. I use Tamiya masking tape because it is thin enough for me to see the panel lines underneath. Stick a piece on the canopy, and use your finger nail to push it down VERY WELL along the panel lines. The better it is stuck, the better you can see the panel lines, and the easier it is to cut. Then use a very sharp X-Acto knife blade to trim the tape. Make sure the knife blade is very sharp so you get the tape cut cleanly. Take your time! Work slowly and get the cuts nice and straight.

The trick is to make sure you know where the panel line is, and cut right against it. If you mess up a cut, don't try to salvage it. Rip the piece of tape off, put a new one on, and start over.