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Secrets of the Oil Wash

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  • Member since
    August 2017
Secrets of the Oil Wash
Posted by laskdjn on Thursday, March 29, 2018 9:49 AM

So, last night attempted to do an oil wash for the first time.  I used Abteilung 502 oil paints and Windsor and Newton Artist's White Spirits for thinning.  All this after I clear coated with Vallejo Gloss Varnish that I let cure for 5 days.  Anyhow, I got it thinned down the oil to the point where I thought it was right and went to town on this Academy F-4N I'm working, pin washing using what I made.

I really liked how much better capillary flow it had compared to the MIG washes I normally used.  The issue arose when I tried to clean it up.

First, I noticed that it doesn't just wipe off the surface with dry paper towel like the enamel washes.  Second, when I used plain white spirit to clean up the panel lines, it made the surface of the varnish start to feel tacky and it didn't really clean it up that well, it just smeared it everywhere.  I figured out that the only solvent that did any appreciable job on cleaning it up was turpentine.  However, turpentine ate into my clear coat and damaged it, fortunately not irreparably.

Therefore, I come to you all to ask how to do it properly.  What techniques do you guys use for oil washes?  I'm wholy tempted to scrap the idea and just go back to enamel washes for panel lines, but I really liked how well the oil wash flowed in the panel lines.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Thursday, March 29, 2018 10:35 AM

I have never needed to clean up after doing pin washes, useing a really fine brush i find the paint just flows down the panel line, though i have only used oils on armour and not aircraft.

But i use opils to do dot filters and other weathering and have never come across the issue you have. I always use a brush with a very small amount of thinners to remove excess.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    August 2017
Posted by laskdjn on Thursday, March 29, 2018 11:31 AM

I was using a Size 0 brush to do the pin washes, maybe it was too big.  I started off using Q-tips to do the clean-up, but those were just making a mess, then I tried dry paper towel.  That had the affect as stated above.  Then I tried dipping the paper towel in white spirits, then I tried paper towell in turpentine.  Really wasn't a huge fan of the white spirits eating through my varnish.  I'd really like to know what I was doing wrong.

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Thursday, March 29, 2018 1:18 PM

I've tried and am not good at oil washes myself, but that said below are three products that have been recommended here over the years by folk who like and are are good at oil washes:

All purchased at my local Hobby Lobby, if you are in U.S.

None attacked my acrylic clear coat. Those clear coats would have been either Alclad aqua Klear (acrylic) or Future (once). I don't remember if I ever tried an oil wash over Vallejo varnishes. They dry funny IMO, I only use them for small detail brushed on clear coats and I don't know if that might be part of the problem or not.

I'd only use whatever I thinned the oils with to wash off excess.

Hopefully one of the oil wash experts will chime in. In the meantime, take my 2 cents for what they are worth, 2 cents

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Thursday, March 29, 2018 1:52 PM

Vallejo Gloss Varnish is described as polyurethane acrylic, but from the sounds of things just doesn't resist spirits very well.

Don't give up, try something else. I've had good luck with Future as a base, and oils thinned in Turpenoid, the one Greg shows on the right.

 

 

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Thursday, March 29, 2018 4:03 PM

After reading Bill's comments, I'd sure be curious to hear a follow up, what happens after you try a different acrylic top coat than Vallejo, laskdjn.

 

  • Member since
    August 2017
Posted by laskdjn on Thursday, March 29, 2018 5:07 PM

Greg

After reading Bill's comments, I'd sure be curious to hear a follow up, what happens after you try a different acrylic top coat than Vallejo, laskdjn.

 

 

On my next model(I got an academy M1A1 Iraq 2003 in the works), I'm gonna try that Alclad Aqua Gloss

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Thursday, March 29, 2018 5:09 PM

I'd suggest you try it on a wreck model.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    August 2017
Posted by laskdjn on Thursday, March 29, 2018 6:02 PM

Good idea, I got a paint mule I'll try it on first

  • Member since
    July 2013
  • From: Chicago area
Posted by modelmaker66 on Thursday, March 29, 2018 11:58 PM

Future is cheap, easy, available and most importantly works perfectly. It's all I use.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, March 30, 2018 5:34 AM

laskdjn
 
Greg

After reading Bill's comments, I'd sure be curious to hear a follow up, what happens after you try a different acrylic top coat than Vallejo, laskdjn.

 

 

 

 

On my next model(I got an academy M1A1 Iraq 2003 in the works), I'm gonna try that Alclad Aqua Gloss

 

I have been useing that on my armour kits for a couple of years after switching from Future. And on every one i have had patches of paint bubble up from the thinners. I have tried heavy coats, multiple light coats and everything else i can think off. My latest build was better, but i still had issues on some areas where i think i may have worn away the alclad when removing the excess.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    October 2010
Posted by hypertex on Friday, March 30, 2018 8:16 AM

The problem isn't the paint or the thinner. The problem is Vallejo has poor abrasion resistance. Don't use a paper towel or q-tips. Just use a clean brush that is slightly wet with spirit.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, March 30, 2018 9:17 AM

laskdjn

I was using a Size 0 brush to do the pin washes, maybe it was too big.  I started off using Q-tips to do the clean-up, but those were just making a mess, then I tried dry paper towel.  That had the affect as stated above.  Then I tried dipping the paper towel in white spirits, then I tried paper towell in turpentine.  Really wasn't a huge fan of the white spirits eating through my varnish.  I'd really like to know what I was doing wrong.

 

Yes, I think 0 is a bit too big.  You need as many zeros as you can get :-)  Lately I have been using a tool I first made for applying small drops of CA. It is a sewing needle jammed into a length of dowel, eye outward. I then grind the end of the eye in half, leaving a small fork.  Not much wash stays in the fork, so for long panel lines you need to re-apply at spaces along the line, but it does put down a tiny amount of wash.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    August 2017
Posted by laskdjn on Friday, March 30, 2018 4:00 PM

This sounds like a damned if I do, damned if I don't scenario

  • Member since
    March 2017
Posted by STUBURT on Wednesday, February 13, 2019 7:49 PM

Exactly the same thing happened to me , my first tank so I figured I'd try an oil wash thankfully I only tried on a small part but yes the same thing to the point I was able to pull my gloss coat off with tweezers. I too am about to go back to enamel I was really hoping to do the dot filters though . I've since pulled up what I could and sparayed the whole thing with future worse case scenario I have to repaint one panel . I was hoping to find something other than pledge to use as I've had leveling issues as of late . 

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