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The Great Tamiya Dilema

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  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Sunday, April 22, 2018 9:01 AM

Hello!

That's the thing, your first post is too long!

I'll try to keep my post short(er).

If you use enamels then you don't have to clean the surface very much. Not so with water based acrylics - they need cleanup AND primer to stick well. Also, enamels are probably easier to spray while some water based acrylics behave like a dream for brush painting, especially painting figures or something like that.

You shouldn't build a model when you are badly stressed. So maybe getting some nice modern well engineered 1:72 kits that aren't so expensive would be the thing for you? On the other hand, as expensive the Spit might be, buying another one isn't the end of the world, so maybe you should take it a bit easier?

As for the camo my advice is to just take a look at lots of photos and see for yourself. Best thing would be to find a photo of the exact machine you want to build and then just go by that. And then if your photo(s) show this camo spot looks like this, you do it exactly like the photo shows. Gives you a nice, warm feeling of certainty.

As for exact colour shades - there's no such thing. You can only get close enough. Again look at some photos and colour chips and then decide for yourself.

I hope it helps, good luck with your builds and have a nice day

Paweł

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, April 22, 2018 8:31 AM

stikpusher

As far as your new expensive Tamiya Spit goes, I highly suggest that you work on a few more not so expensive kits and build up your experience level and gain a better position on the learning curve before you commit to an expensive project that will upset you bigtime most likely if things go wrong 

I totally agree. There is a large learning curve to getting a decent paint finish. For me, that was the hardest part of building models.

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Sunday, April 22, 2018 2:12 AM

General consensus is that factory and depot level applied RAF camouflage patterns were masked using shaped rubber mats laid directly on the surface of the aircraft. This leaves little room for variations, except for field-applied touch-ups.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Sunday, April 22, 2018 12:47 AM

Your post has more points than easily answered. Especially when using a small phone screen.

Enamels vs Acrylics- well that boils down to personal tastes and choice. There is no wrong answer, you have freedom of choice. Nothing says you can’t use both. I do, but lean more towards enamels due to their simplicity. No additional additives needed compared to some acrylics, just thin as needed and airbrush.

As far as your new expensive Tamiya Spit goes, I highly suggest that you work on a few more not so expensive kits and build up your experience level and gain a better position on the learning curve before you commit to an expensive project that will upset you bigtime most likely if things go wrong.

Camo schemes- the vast majority were factory applied according to RAF specifications and following a standard pattern using prescribed colors. There were a few ”one off” field applied schemes such as a few on Malta, but the variation was in color due to the peculiarities of that combat locale.

I hope this gives some of the answers that you are looking for.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    March 2018
The Great Tamiya Dilema
Posted by JollyJackTar on Saturday, April 21, 2018 11:54 PM

Howdy from Eastland Texas

Which is certainly not home. I'm here for work and off for the weekend.  Leaving me with an entire day of "me time" to mull over some interesting decisions I need to make when I return to Tulsa. 

First things first. Some back ground. I've just about finished up a really cheap sacrificial lamb in the form of a Revell 1/42 Spitfire Mk I.   It has a bad reputation and that's exactly why I chose to build it.  

I knew going in to that build that it would present more challenges than another model say, from a different manufacturer of higher quality.  And for coming back to a hobby after 20 some years, I needed the practice and this model didn't let me down.  I had to make many fixes.  All in all it was a good, lousy model to refresh some rusty skills. 

I walked away from that revell a bit wiser and better off for having run up against some challenges.  The fuselage was twisted. The wing had a substantial dogs leg that kicked down. And there was plenty of Bondo slung here and there.  And many new panel lines scribed in after sanding all that said bondo.  

Two things that pertain to this post.  Airbrushing Vs. Brush painting.  Acrylics Vs. Enamels.  Really reared their heads during this build. It's a question I was willing to explore freely on that Revell for 18 bucks.  I'm not so sure I'm apt to explore it more on a model I recently purchased.   

A Tamiya 1/32 Spitfire Mk IXc. The price differece made this model a little more particular in that I don't intend to experiment much on it.  That's to say, I'll be doing a whole lot of practicing before I ever slop paint on this thing. Without being 100% positive that I know What I'm doing.   And there in lies my predicament. 

I painted the very first parts of that Revell with Enamels. The interior. And 1, I didn't enjoy that it ended my build session for the night by having to wait for 12 hours for paint to cure.   I also wasn't a fan of the fumes.  Now I could open the garage door but it's been too cold in my shop for that.   And the clean up was kind of a hassle as well.   Involving more thinner and then a wash in dish detergent and saddle soap.   It's just not as user friendly to me as these acrylics. 

I wanted to be able to continue to work without hours of down time.  Rubbing alcohol doesn't give the same level of stank that thinner does.  And a quick wash up in dish then saddle soap ended the nights work without the fumes.  

I also noticed that I got a much better finish with the Vallejo acrylics than I did with my enamels.  I was fighting brush strokes and how to eliminate them. And I painted the exterior in acrylic. It came out fine.  Not great. But not lousy.  It was to me, it seemed, easier to work with and the brush strokes weren't nearly on the same level as the interior. 

The heart of my conundrum is this.  I've got a really beautiful and some what expensive model. And I'd like to give it the best possible finish that I can.  

I think that means I'm going to need to plumb in my compressor and hook up the air brush.  

I want a great finish. For me, the money I spent on a top notch model justifies the need for a Great finish. Not a fine finish. Not Ok.  You get it. 

Any whozle. 

I have a 4 gallon Kobalt and a decent 2 stage Neo. I just need a separator and some pipes and some air line and dope. 

But I get hung up on the research I've done so far and the way that it conflicts with each way of doing this.   I've read many posts that say, enamels and airbrush are the best way to go.  

But I've read the counter to that, arguments that say acrylics are the way to go.  But they're finicky and tricky and difficult.  

And then I've had moderate luck with brush painting with these Vallejos that i don't wonder if there's a way out there that does give you a great, quality finish without an airbrush.  So I've got little experience and some luck with hand painting.  But no experience with an airbrush.  And if you add them all up..  It's all very little experience.  

My thoughts are that I'd like to veer away from enamels. And use the acrylics in the airbrush as it looks to me like many folks use the same method and have a lot of luck and some amazing builds. In spite of the diffculty. Some even say that after a while, it's just second nature.  Which goes along with any kind of craft or trade. 

Eventually, the things most people consider difficult, become part of the process and just aren't an issue any more.  And I know from being a journeyman in 2 trades that some processes are better to come into with no previous experience. No bad habits. No preconceived notions and no prejudices.  You learn by practicing and if you have to mix paint a certain way to get the result you want.   It's not really a problem any longer.  

I wanted some opinions from veteran builders on what they think on the subject.  What they use and what kind of challenges each presents.  If the acrylic airbrush really is as feisty as folks say. Or is it a non issue and only coming from folks who paint with enamels because it requires less work. Or practice. 

Also, I wanted to get a point in the right direction with something else. Earlier today, I read a post in the welcome section. A guy made a post about painting the exact same revell I just finished.  But one of the answers stood out to me.   Because the original poster seems to have just put down his lines for the camouflage in a random sort of way.   But later, one of the replies stated that "those lines aren't arbitrary."  

I have 4 referece books on the Spitfire and it makes no mention of the camo patern, who came up with it, and if it was all done via a system or process and the way that camo was laid out was according to a blueprint? 

The only reference I have to Second World War RAF camo pattrns is that it changed by date and theater.  There's no more information about the actual mechanics of it. It's appication or who designed it. So I was hoping someone would be kind enough to site some source material for me? (Which would be ideal) or at the very least give a description of what that actually means?  

Well, it's late. I've written a novel.  The West Texas winds are howling. It' getting cold and I need to call Momma.  

Thanks guys 

Bernie 

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