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Spraymaster Airbrush problems

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6 replies
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  • Member since
    May 2018
Spraymaster Airbrush problems
Posted by StanMan on Wednesday, May 16, 2018 4:52 AM

I've had the "kit" for a few years but until now, not used in anger. Now as I'm re-spraying diecast with enamels (old school) but thinned, was going well. The airbrush is a double action with suction so managed to set it up adjusting the needle to suit and then running thinners through it to clean it out.

When I get to use it again, the needle is stuck and I have to use pliers to pull it out, clean it again. It's been like it for a couple of months now, taking time to get it going then it's ok . . until the next time.

Now after cleaning I cannot get the air to stop when I release the trigger. The only way is to turn the valve off on the hose. I have checked the valve needle in the airbrush and it springs back and forth ok.  Is it because there is too much pressure coming through that it stops the valve from closing?

I'll be looking at new airbrushes soon so any reccommendations would be gratefully appreciated.

Anyone else use this airbrush and if so, any problems?

  • Member since
    July 2013
  • From: Chicago area
Posted by modelmaker66 on Wednesday, May 16, 2018 1:48 PM

Underneath the trigger is the air valve It is the place where the air comes in. There is a pin under spring pressure that the trigger pushes down to let in the air. It is surrounded by a rubber gasket to prvent air and contain leakage. Either paint got in there during cleaning and hardened or the cleaning you did caused the rubber gasket to swell. Take out the trigger and use a q tip with lacquer thinner to clean the area until you can put the trigger back and get air again.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Wednesday, May 16, 2018 2:30 PM

Reading other forums they sound like they last about a year. Chinese copy of Iwata.

Iwatas are good brushes.

I have a double action gravity feed Badger that I think the world of. Easy to switch tips, get replacements. 

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    March 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Wednesday, May 16, 2018 3:21 PM

Agree with GM, the knockoff copies don't often enjoy the longer durability of the major brands, a lot of it depends on the user, some have better luck than others. Check out "Scale a Ton" on you tube, he has a nice bit of info about how he improves a Chinese AB, it's his mainstay for the priming and base coat parts of painting.

I use Badger, Paasche and Iwata AB's, the Badger's are my most often used. I recommend you spend some time looking at "Don's Airbrush" website, a wealth of info about all things related to airbrushes. Time very well invested.

For what it's worth, just a spray rinse doesn't really buy much relative to airbrush maintenance. Once the rinse is done, at the minimum it's best to remove the front bits for a good cleaning, then pull the needle and give it a thorough cleaning. Some thinner applied to the inside of the needle bearing with a small dental brush, will avoid having the needle get stuck as you describe.

It's best to do your cleaning with the nose of the AB pointing down, to avoid cleaner/paint getting down into the air valve chamber. Again, all of that is described in detail, at Don's website. Good luck with your search for a new airbrush, like GM I recommend Badger. My last Badger I purchased from USA AIRBRUSH, excellent service and prices.

Patrick

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Friday, May 18, 2018 5:22 PM

You get what you pay for when you buy cheap brand airbrushes...

  • Member since
    May 2018
Posted by StanMan on Tuesday, May 22, 2018 10:25 AM

 Will try that when I get a chance modelmaker66. Got it working over the weekend, started spraying acrylic through it and cleaned it again. Won't be on it until Saturday week as I'm working away.

  • Member since
    May 2018
Posted by StanMan on Tuesday, May 22, 2018 10:27 AM

Thanks Patrick

good advice and watching Don for tricks and tipsYes

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