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Pin wash issues on 1/48 F-18

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  • Member since
    September, 2017
Pin wash issues on 1/48 F-18
Posted by MrDave on Monday, May 28, 2018 5:14 PM

I have watched numerous YouTube vids on how to pin wash panel lines. I am using MIg black pigment, thinned with mineral spirits applied with a "000" brush. The fin has a gloss coat.

When I use a cotton bud lightly moistened with mineral spirits with a very light touch, the wash still smears over the panels.  I have a hard time removing the wash where I don't want it without removing the wash from the lines and "rivets" where I do want it.

Anyone have any suggestions as this is my second attempt with same results.  I must be doing something wrong.

Thanks.

Thanks.
In Him
Mr. Dave

  • Member since
    July, 2004
  • From: Sunny So. Cal... The OC
Posted by stikpusher on Monday, May 28, 2018 5:17 PM

I prefer using a moistened red sable paint brush for my wash clean up. I’ve never used cotton swabs.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, May 29, 2018 9:02 AM

Use a smaller tool to apply it.  The tool must not be much larger than the width of the groove you are applying it to.

Pin washes must be used with recessed lines, not raised ones, and the surface tension and wetting ability must match the finish you are applying it over.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    August, 2017
Posted by laskdjn on Tuesday, May 29, 2018 11:33 AM

How long do you let it dry?

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, May 30, 2018 9:26 AM

laskdjn

How long do you let it dry?

 

I have never used the Mig pigments (I just use enamel paint), so I cannot really say too much.  However, for my enamel washes I thin them with mineral spirits.  Enamel paints are notoriously slow drying, but the thinner evaporates in a few hours.  Since the wash stays down in the groove, I find it is pretty easy to handle the model, and procede to other weathering in other areas once the thinner is gone.  I don't apply anything over the pinwash areas until a day later, however.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    August, 2017
Posted by laskdjn on Wednesday, May 30, 2018 2:49 PM

Sorry, Don, that was meant for the original poster.  When I first started doing washes I models, I didn't let them dry enough before wiping and had the exact same problems as him, now I wait a little longer and the washes come out beautifully.

  • Member since
    September, 2017
Posted by MrDave on Wednesday, May 30, 2018 3:35 PM

Thanks Don for your suggestion.  I use a "000" brush which has a sharp point which does a good job on the panel lines.  However, I do have to "paint" over the recessed divits to bring them out.

Thanks.
In Him
Mr. Dave

  • Member since
    September, 2017
Posted by MrDave on Wednesday, May 30, 2018 3:38 PM

From what you are suggesting, drying time might be an issue.  The surface looks flat which seemed to me to mean it was dry.   I have had to let a "test" surface dry several days being out of town for work.

We'll see what happens.  Thanks.

Thanks.
In Him
Mr. Dave

  • Member since
    July, 2004
  • From: Sunny So. Cal... The OC
Posted by stikpusher on Wednesday, May 30, 2018 4:35 PM

Oils give you lots of time to work with. They are slow drying and even slower to fully cure afterwards. I’ve gone and cleaned up oil washes several days after applying them with no difficulties. Enamels give you several hours, while acrylics are quite difficult to clean up as pin washes within a few minutes.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

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