Pin wash issues on 1/48 F-18

I prefer using a moistened red sable paint brush for my wash clean up. I’ve never used cotton swabs.

Use a smaller tool to apply it.  The tool must not be much larger than the width of the groove you are applying it to.

Pin washes must be used with recessed lines, not raised ones, and the surface tension and wetting ability must match the finish you are applying it over.

How long do you let it dry?

laskdjn

How long do you let it dry?

 

I have never used the Mig pigments (I just use enamel paint), so I cannot really say too much.  However, for my enamel washes I thin them with mineral spirits.  Enamel paints are notoriously slow drying, but the thinner evaporates in a few hours.  Since the wash stays down in the groove, I find it is pretty easy to handle the model, and procede to other weathering in other areas once the thinner is gone.  I don't apply anything over the pinwash areas until a day later, however.

Sorry, Don, that was meant for the original poster.  When I first started doing washes I models, I didn't let them dry enough before wiping and had the exact same problems as him, now I wait a little longer and the washes come out beautifully.

Thanks Don for your suggestion.  I use a "000" brush which has a sharp point which does a good job on the panel lines.  However, I do have to "paint" over the recessed divits to bring them out.

From what you are suggesting, drying time might be an issue.  The surface looks flat which seemed to me to mean it was dry.   I have had to let a "test" surface dry several days being out of town for work.

We'll see what happens.  Thanks.

Oils give you lots of time to work with. They are slow drying and even slower to fully cure afterwards. I’ve gone and cleaned up oil washes several days after applying them with no difficulties. Enamels give you several hours, while acrylics are quite difficult to clean up as pin washes within a few minutes.