Beginner question

I have decanted spray paint before and it's very thin for brush painting but can be airbrushed.  

Blaine

I'm sure this has been asked, but I just haven't been able to find the answer. With base colors, or any color for that matter, is there anything wrong with using regular spray can enamal and de-canning it? Or for that matter a standard enamal paint? 

 

No. It’s your choice what you want to do. 

The only thing I know of that is special about model paints is that some brands use more finely ground pigments than most hardware store paints.  However, for clear coats, either gloss or flat, I have used gloss clear enamels, lacquers and polyurethanes. 

If a model does not have really finely molded detail, hardware store paint of any kind is okay.  However, lacquers must be used over primers (that is, real old-fashioned lacquer, not acrylic lacquer).  I have used the store brand acylic from Michaels for unusual shades of colors.  I have used a number of hardwares store spray cans where the model doesn't have a lot of fine detail, especially for a gloss black undercoat for Alclad.

Thanks all for your responses. I wasn't aware that that model paints had a finer pigment.

Results range from good to horrifying. 

Test the combo of paints you intend to use on something first, including the time intervals for drying.

Spray paint out of the can will usually be unacceptably thick, and prone to runs.

GMorrison

Spray paint out of the can will usually be unacceptably thick, and prone to runs.

Not necessarily if you know what you’re doing. The secret is spray in several light coats.

In my youth years, I’ve used spray cans numerous times on my builds. Never had issues of spraying too thick or suffered runs. Thankfully, my grandfather taught me how to use a rattle can. 

Standard enamels, ie. Rustleom, etc., are going to have to be thinned WAY down to go through an AB.  The other downside is you can usually only get in pint or quart quantities.

You might find an auto paint store that can mix you whatever color you want based off a color chip book, but the cost is going to be outragous these days, though most can mix down to a couple of ounces (if they are willing).  These are going to be reducer specific as well, and some will require a hardner.  If hardner is required, geting the right raito in a small mix is difficult.  If you get an un-hardened version, it will take a couple of weeks to cure enough to do anything else with, and topcoating with another medium runs the risk of lifting.  Ie., using a clear gloss or flat laquer over the enamel if it hasn't had the hardner.

Personally I would stick with rattlecans in whatever color you need.

Thanks for all the advice, I'll stick with the testors enamal for now. As for automotive paints I'm familar with acylic enamals and urathanes and I know they wouldn't be approperate for models. 

Just about everybody in automotive paints use catalist 

Blaine

Thanks for all the advice, I'll stick with the testors enamal for now. As for automotive paints I'm familar with acylic enamals and urathanes and I know they wouldn't be approperate for models. 

Just about everybody in automotive paints use catalist 

 

At least Testors is easy with good results pretty much assured.

BlackSheepTwoOneFour

 

 

GMorrison

Spray paint out of the can will usually be unacceptably thick, and prone to runs.

 

 

 

Not necessarily if you know what you’re doing. The secret is spray in several light coats.

In my youth years, I’ve used spray cans numerous times on my builds. Never had issues of spraying too thick or suffered runs. Thankfully, my grandfather taught me how to use a rattle can. 

 

I’m no expert by any means, GM. Just saying what I know from experience. 

Good morning to you too. Now pour yourself another cup of coffee. 

This time of day, Jameson's.