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Stripping Paint

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ZAT
  • Member since
    November 2018
Stripping Paint
Posted by ZAT on Monday, April 1, 2019 10:27 PM
I managed to mess up a model using Mission Modeks Paint. For some strange reason the paint, primer didn’t stick for squat to my parts. It’s a Hasegawa Machinenkrieger. Plastic didn’t seem like it was different. Applied some X22 clear to add panel liner and as soon as I touched the model with a dry Qtip the paint came off in chunks, down to bare plastic. Obviously, I messed up something. I need to strip the paint so I can start again, but don’t want to damage all the poly inserts that articulate the joints. Any ideas aside from soaking in IPA or trying to sand ever book and cranny??? Thanks in advance
  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, April 2, 2019 10:08 AM

Purple Power cleaner has become my goto since I friend recommended it to me a couple of years ago.  I even use it now for cleaning out airbrush bottles.  Works well, does not damage plastic, and easier on the skin.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Tuesday, April 2, 2019 11:15 AM

Can be a number of things.

Sounds like oil residue on plastic. Did you soak the sprues in mild detergent?

What primer did you use?

What thinner did you use? (assuming you used thinner) I recommend using Mission Model brand thinner. 

Did you let primer dry completely before handling and/or applying paint?

Did you let paint dry completely between coats?

Did you spray too close to the kit?

Lacquer clearcoat would have held up better when using panel accent liner. Acrylic clearcoat on acrylic paint sounds more the problem why the paint came off.

ZAT
  • Member since
    November 2018
Posted by ZAT on Tuesday, April 2, 2019 11:37 AM

BlackSheepTwoOneFour

Can be a number of things.

Sounds like oil residue on plastic. Did you soak the sprues in mild detergent?

What primer did you use?

What thinner did you use? (assuming you used thinner) I recommend using Mission Model brand thinner. 

Did you let primer dry completely before handling and/or applying paint?

Did you let paint dry completely between coats?

Did you spray too close to the kit?

Lacquer clearcoat would have held up better when using panel accent liner. Acrylic clearcoat on acrylic paint sounds more the problem why the paint came off.

Its entirely possible that I had some residue on the sprues before paint.  Ive never washed my sprues.  I did wipe down with IPA before priming, to get prints and sanding residue off the surfaces.

Used the MMP Black Primer with their thinner according to the ratio on their web page.  Primer dried overnight,close to 24 hrs as did the paint.

No idea on being too close or not.  2-3 inches is what their web page recommends.  Im pretty sure I was within that envelope.  Never really paid much attention with the Tamiya or Vallejo stuff.

Dont like using Laquer due to the stink.  Tried Mr Color Surfacer and it stank up my garage.  I can get away with the Tamiya smell without stinking up the place and Ive had no issues with panel liner pulling stuff off like this using either Tamiya or Vallejo paints. Probably should have just stuck with what I had experience with, I gues.

If anyone has a lower stink Laquer clear coat or primer, I'm all ears.

ZAT
  • Member since
    November 2018
Posted by ZAT on Tuesday, April 2, 2019 11:37 AM

Don Stauffer

Purple Power cleaner has become my goto since I friend recommended it to me a couple of years ago.  I even use it now for cleaning out airbrush bottles.  Works well, does not damage plastic, and easier on the skin.

 

Thanks.  Will give that a try and see how it goes.

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