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First air brush

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  • Member since
    April, 2019
Posted by Fesan on Friday, May 17, 2019 2:08 PM

Greg

 

 
Fesan
this was asked before paints where even purchased so i knew what i needed it was all vallejo product used for paint session

 

I think I somehow landed on a previous page in this thread and didn't realize it. Sorry about that.

 

no problem your probably thinking about other post i asked about the problem this one was when i went and ordered my guns and the acrylics (never used them before always was all enamels) I picked up from my lhs. Model air seems to be none exstient in my area besides the 2 camo kits i found at a hobby lobby.

  • Member since
    May, 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Friday, May 17, 2019 1:56 PM

oldermodelguy

I think he went out and bought Vallejo thinner and Tamiya thinner since the alcohol comment.

However, I just found out the other day here ( maybe Tues or so) that Vallejo makes a high performance thinner they recommend for their candy colors and not sure what else. I assume this is besides their latest regular acrylic thinner. But that really is just assumption on my part.

 

Yes, as per my above, I somehow got me thread reading out of order.

-Greg

  • Member since
    May, 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Friday, May 17, 2019 1:55 PM

Fesan
this was asked before paints where even purchased so i knew what i needed it was all vallejo product used for paint session

I think I somehow landed on a previous page in this thread and didn't realize it. Sorry about that.

-Greg

  • Member since
    November, 2018
Posted by oldermodelguy on Friday, May 17, 2019 1:47 PM

I think he went out and bought Vallejo thinner and Tamiya thinner since the alcohol comment.

However, I just found out the other day here ( maybe Tues or so) that Vallejo makes a high performance or premium thinner ( for the premium paint line I think) they recommend for their candy colors and not sure what else. I assume this is besides their latest regular acrylic thinner. But that really is just assumption on my part.

  • Member since
    April, 2019
Posted by Fesan on Friday, May 17, 2019 1:35 PM

Greg

 

 
Fesan

the acrylics thin with alcohol right? And whats this retarder you speak of?

 

 

 

Now I'm confused. From a previous post, I was comfortable that you were using the right products with your Vallejo acrylics. Now I'm not so sure.

You don't want to use anything except Vallejo Airbrush Thinner and Vallejo Flow Improver. At least for now, as OMG said. And also, and OMG said, get near alcohol and be prepared for a complete airbrush teardown and a horrible, goopy mess.

If you throw anything in the mix that didn't come out of a Vallejo-labled bottle, that throws variables into this thing making it pretty hard to sort out. And Vallejo has so many confusing products, you can even get into trouble mixing Vallejo stuff with other Vallejo stuff sometimes. I have. (for example putting Vallejo Retarder Medium in an airbrush. Oops)

 

this was asked before paints where even purchased so i knew what i needed it was all vallejo product used for paint session

  • Member since
    May, 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Friday, May 17, 2019 1:15 PM

Fesan

the acrylics thin with alcohol right? And whats this retarder you speak of?

 

Now I'm confused. From a previous post, I was comfortable that you were using the right products with your Vallejo acrylics. Now I'm not so sure.

You don't want to use anything except Vallejo Airbrush Thinner and Vallejo Flow Improver. At least for now, as OMG said. And also, and OMG said, get near alcohol and be prepared for a complete airbrush teardown and a horrible, goopy mess.

If you throw anything in the mix that didn't come out of a Vallejo-labled bottle, that throws variables into this thing making it pretty hard to sort out. And Vallejo has so many confusing products, you can even get into trouble mixing Vallejo stuff with other Vallejo stuff sometimes. I have. (for example putting Vallejo Retarder Medium in an airbrush. Oops)

-Greg

  • Member since
    November, 2018
Posted by oldermodelguy on Friday, May 17, 2019 1:11 PM

Production must be catching up. Good news at any rate...

  • Member since
    April, 2019
Posted by Fesan on Friday, May 17, 2019 12:45 PM

Well if anyone been following the badger just shipped i will recieve it next week.

  • Member since
    March, 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Saturday, May 11, 2019 11:45 AM
Yes,always light coats,misting.

  • Member since
    April, 2019
Posted by Fesan on Saturday, May 11, 2019 10:11 AM

BlackSheepTwoOneFour

Remember this rule:

Acrylic washes are safe to use on ENAMEL or LACQUER clearcoat.

Enamel/oil/lacquer washes are safe to use on ACRYLIC clearcoat.

If you follow this simple rule, you won’t have a disaster on your hands.

 

and the clear over the wash does not matter as long as the wash is dried right?

  • Member since
    January, 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Saturday, May 11, 2019 9:34 AM

Remember this rule:

Acrylic washes are safe to use on ENAMEL or LACQUER clearcoat.

Enamel/oil/lacquer washes are safe to use on ACRYLIC clearcoat.

If you follow this simple rule, you won’t have a disaster on your hands.

  • Member since
    April, 2019
Posted by Fesan on Saturday, May 11, 2019 8:36 AM

oldermodelguy
 

Having a couple of kits going at once works kind of nice.

I suggest before you color coat that Mustang to do a spoon test with the paints you will be using, thus hopefully, minimizing surprises.

I did a pin wash test yesterday with acrylic artist paint. It can be done but you kind of have to coax the flooding a bit and wipe up the surrounding area before it dries. You don't get the automatic capilary action of oils. But it can be done. I saw a video where someone used acrylic paint for a wash and it was the same for them. I have a couple of different sets of Liquitex soft body acrylic artist paints here so thought I'd try it out. Works in a pinch, I'll stick with oil is my conclusion. FWIW and just passing it on. Dilusion was 20-1 and my water had a little flow aid in it.

For pin washes I opted for the easier route right now and have the tamiya panel line accents in gret brown and black. Ill experiment once i get better. The mustang is going to get a spoon test, but waiting till i am better with the airbrush. Do not want to spend a night stripping it because i did not know what i was doing with the brush still. Last night spent time using my tamiya putty (first time using it and putty on a model) and that got interesting quickly. I got the joint lines to disappear but could not get a good dilution going to stop it from drying so fast on me. Either was i am truely becoming happy with my progress for an amateur builder.

  • Member since
    November, 2018
Posted by oldermodelguy on Saturday, May 11, 2019 4:57 AM

Fesan
Slowly going to start building motor and chassis on the mustang while i play with the little plane also i been kind of bouncing around on projects so been kind of nice doing different projects each session.
 

Having a couple of kits going at once works kind of nice.

I suggest before you color coat that Mustang to do a spoon test with the paints you will be using, thus (hopefully) minimizing surprises.

I did a pin wash test yesterday with acrylic artist paint. It can be done but you kind of have to coax the flooding a bit and wipe up the surrounding area before it dries. You don't get the automatic capilary action of oils. But it can be done. I saw a video where someone used acrylic paint for a wash and it was the same for them. I have a couple of different sets of Liquitex soft body acrylic artist paints here so thought I'd try it out. Works in a pinch, I'll stick with oil is my conclusion. FWIW and just passing it on. Dilusion was 20-1 and my water had a little flow aid in it.

 

  • Member since
    April, 2019
Posted by Fesan on Friday, May 10, 2019 4:15 PM
Slowly going to start building motor and chassis on the mustang while i play with the little plane also i been kind of bouncing around on projects so been kind of nice doing different projects each session.
  • Member since
    November, 2018
Posted by oldermodelguy on Friday, May 10, 2019 4:10 PM

Fesan

 

 

I feel it came out good for second model playing with sanding body lines and priming i am happy with it. Still on the learning curve and each one will get better and better.

 

 

Good !

What now ?

  • Member since
    April, 2019
Posted by Fesan on Friday, May 10, 2019 3:11 PM

oldermodelguy

Would that indicate that you primed the Mustang ? If so, how did it come out in primer.

 

I feel it came out good for second model playing with sanding body lines and priming i am happy with it. Still on the learning curve and each one will get better and better.

  • Member since
    November, 2018
Posted by oldermodelguy on Friday, May 10, 2019 1:33 PM

Fesan

 

going with the light grey (ghost grey i believe it was called) and the darker grey on bottom. The other one i am going to let my little cousin do he seems really interested in learning models and for 6 bucks he messes it up who cares its all about the fun of it to me. not about always being historically correct and goinf with what you lile puts character i to each model you build. (Same reason i have a 67 mustang body ready for teal base coat lol)

 

Would that indicate that you primed the Mustang ? If so, how did it come out in primer.

  • Member since
    April, 2019
Posted by Fesan on Friday, May 10, 2019 1:14 PM

oldermodelguy

And then there is color of your wash. I think if you go with oil, the sky is the limit there. But you will want something kind of grimy, a smoke, a charcoal tone, sienna, maybe burnt umber to start. Don't be afraid to mix colors, grime isn't consistent anyway. Panel lines just need to be darker than the surface color is all. Plain black is too stark a contrast on airplane panels ( just my opinion).

Is this F14 going to be navy colors or something else ?

 

going with the light grey (ghost grey i believe it was called) and the darker grey on bottom. The other one i am going to let my little cousin do he seems really interested in learning models and for 6 bucks he messes it up who cares its all about the fun of it to me. not about always being historically correct and goinf with what you lile puts character i to each model you build. (Same reason i have a 67 mustang body ready for teal base coat lol)

  • Member since
    May, 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Friday, May 10, 2019 10:38 AM

GMorrison

Proper thinning means to me a dab of oil paint about the size of a BB in a tablespoon of thinner.

 

I've always wondered about that ratio. I used to hear an oil wash in really just dirty thinner. You have me thinking I've been using too little oil paint, no wonder it never much works for me, thanks GM.

-Greg

  • Member since
    November, 2018
Posted by oldermodelguy on Friday, May 10, 2019 9:21 AM

And then there is color of your wash. I think if you go with oil, the sky is the limit there. But you will want something kind of grimy, a smoke, a charcoal tone, sienna, maybe burnt umber to start. Don't be afraid to mix colors, grime isn't consistent anyway. Panel lines just need to be darker than the surface color is all. Plain black is too stark a contrast on airplane panels ( just my opinion).

Is this F14 going to be navy colors or something else ?

  • Member since
    September, 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, May 10, 2019 9:10 AM

Proper thinning means to me a dab of oil paint about the size of a BB in a tablespoon of thinner.

  • Member since
    November, 2018
Posted by oldermodelguy on Friday, May 10, 2019 9:04 AM

Fesan
Watched the video not to say it is easy but his tips makes me confident i cant mess up badly. Question for enamel paints with panel line accenting. Do i put an acrylic coat between the enamel layers or they make an acrylic version of it also?
 

There are acrylic washes too. Vallejo and Testors makes some but I've never tried them.

I did try some acrylic oil stains one time ( water clean up) that was a bust, it just did not behave properly in my opinion, there was a very fine line between thin enough but still too rich and just water and running all over the place. My wife uses those on her ceramics projects beautifully, God bless her and Amen to that !

Oil based washes are pretty easy, the big thing is proper thinning with the right agents ( usually odorless mineral spirits or so called White spirits). I don't know if acrylic washes would flow so nice honestly. Mig Ammo makes enamel washes but plain old oil paints are everywhere in any craft or artist supply store. Just sayin. But hey, if you try acrylic washes let us know how they work. And too, I'm no weathering expert by any stretch of the imagination but we do have some here in the forum who would classify as that. So maybe they will be along soon.

  • Member since
    April, 2019
Posted by Fesan on Friday, May 10, 2019 8:26 AM
Watched the video not to say it is easy but his tips makes me confident i cant mess up badly. Question for enamel paints with panel line accenting. Do i put an acrylic coat between the enamel layers or they make an acrylic version of it also?
  • Member since
    November, 2018
Posted by oldermodelguy on Friday, May 10, 2019 6:12 AM

Fesan

 

I am thinking for this little guy being first attempt at a plane and pin washing for the panel lines I am going to leave weathering out. I have a lot going on with this 144 scale as practice so might as well try to perfect the 1-2 things for detail i am trying to learn before adding more to the to do list on the model lol. Last night little guy came out of the box and started to get sanded and scribed where needed.

 

Keep your color coats thin and as few as you need to cover the model. A single coat of primer works, just put it on even, it will grip just as well as more coats would.. But with small models it's easy to bury the detail in paint is all...

Watch the video.

  • Member since
    April, 2019
Posted by Fesan on Friday, May 10, 2019 5:57 AM

oldermodelguy

Look up "pin washes", to me there is less clean up around the panel line this way. Also on aircraft you will want some staining washes (weathering) I think, unless it's modeling a brand new factory show condition unused aircraft that is.

Here is a video for you:     https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfsFGZbiDLM

I don't know about the ship idea now, got looking around online yesterday and quickly discovered two things: I don't really know what I'm looking for, just by discription of a dad telling a ten year old about it and that was 49 years ago lol ! Secondly, most kits I find of what I think it might be are only 15" or so long. I've never seen a photo of the ship he served on. I think it may be best to just simply keep the conversations in my memory banks for as long as my mind still works and leave it at that lol.

 

 

 

I am thinking for this little guy being first attempt at a plane and pin washing for the panel lines I am going to leave weathering out. I have a lot going on with this 144 scale as practice so might as well try to perfect the 1-2 things for detail i am trying to learn before adding more to the to do list on the model lol. Last night little guy came out of the box and started to get sanded and scribed where needed.

  • Member since
    November, 2018
Posted by oldermodelguy on Friday, May 10, 2019 4:42 AM

Look up "pin washes", to me there is less clean up around the panel line this way. Also on aircraft you will want some staining washes (weathering) I think, unless it's modeling a brand new factory show condition unused aircraft that is.

Here is a video for you:     https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LfsFGZbiDLM

I don't know about the ship idea now, got looking around online yesterday and quickly discovered two things: I don't really know what I'm looking for, just by discription of a dad telling a ten year old about it and that was 49 years ago lol ! Secondly, most kits I find of what I think it might be are only 15" or so long. I've never seen a photo of the ship he served on. I think it may be best to just simply keep the conversations in my memory banks for as long as my mind still works and leave it at that lol.

 

 

  • Member since
    August, 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Thursday, May 09, 2019 10:59 PM

Let the emamel or oil wash dry for a couple of days and you should be OK with an acrylic clear.

Pledge is an acrylic floor care product.  Different name there.  Most will dip canopies in it and wick the excess off a corner with a paper towel.  Gives a high shine on clear parts and helps prevent "fogging" if they are glued with CA.

Can also be used as a gloss coat over matt paint prior to decals, then a matt clear over that for the flat finish typical on aircraft or armor.  

  • Member since
    October, 2016
  • From: Somewhere in Ohio...
Posted by DasBeav on Thursday, May 09, 2019 10:55 PM

Fesan
 
goldhammer

 

 

 

also what is with this pledge i see people speak of for clear? It better the acrylic clears? 

 

You'll here Pledge and Future alot around these parts. It used to be Future Floor Wax, Then Pledge with Future Bright, and now it's just Pledge. It's an acrylic floor wax that some modellers use as an alterative to clear coating. I have 3/4 of a bottle left and it's 5 years old. A way cheaper alternative. Somebody out there can explain it alot better than I can. Type Future in the Forum Search and you'll see a million answers.

Great stuff actually. I, myself, use it often.

 Sooner Born...Buckeye Bred.

 

  • Member since
    April, 2019
Posted by Fesan on Thursday, May 09, 2019 9:50 PM

goldhammer

You have the basic idea on darkening lines, just mist on your top color till you get the look you want.

Do a search for "preshading".  The other idea is to bring them out with a "wash" .  A very thin color applied over a gloss coat.  After it dries a little, take a damp tissue or q-tip and wipe off the excess.

 

if going with a wash i know i have to use an enamel wash since i am going with acrylic paints. After the wash is it save to put acrylic clear over everything?

 

also what is with this pledge i see people speak of for clear? It better the acrylic clears? 

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