Badger 200 bottle falling

This thread is funny, because a couple of months ago I took my 200 out of the drawer and used it for the first time in years. It was doing a pretty good job, and I wondered why I hadn't used it more often. Then the colour cup fell out, and I remembered.

Tanker - Builder

Okay Ya'll ;

 I learned this from a real Live Steam Model railRoader. Take the Fitting, and the Bottle connection . Put some rubbing compound ( Coarse ) on the surface and rub them together until grey metallic bits or foam comes out .Remove parts and clean thoroughly .What you have done there is machine a new surface between the two parts .This does work for some sooo . T.B.

 

I was thinking of doing that.  I fear, however, getting rubbing compound into the guts of the airbrush.  I will give it a try, being very careful.

Okay Ya'll ;

 I learned this from a real Live Steam Model railRoader. Take the Fitting, and the Bottle connection . Put some rubbing compound ( Coarse ) on the surface and rub them together until grey metallic bits or foam comes out .Remove parts and clean thoroughly .What you have done there is machine a new surface between the two parts .This does work for some sooo . T.B.

Don Wheeler

Just a thought, Don.  How old is your 200?  I know you use it a lot.  The spout on the bottles is tapered.  It is a jam fit in the body of the brush.  If the opening in the body is worn enough that it slips past that taper, you will never get a tight join.  The brush body is brass, the spout is steel.

If that is the case, you could replace the body for less than $35.  Here  is a source.

Don

 

Its not that old.  I replaced my forty year old version with a new brush.  I liked the old one better in a way- the bottle adapter was permanently affixed.

gregbale

Don, I had the same problem years ago with the first 200 that I owned (and which was in fact the first 'real' AB I ever had). I ended up roughening the end of the nozzle with emery cloth, which did the trick. (I was afraid removing the nickel plating would encourage corrosion, but it was never really a problem.)

The 'glue' idea didn't occur to me, but it isn't a bad one; you didn't say which one you used...but would something like clear silicone work any better?

 

I tried the sandpaper roughing- didn't work for me.  I used CA cement.  Worked for awhile but came loose again.  Maybe I should try silicone- worth a try.

There is no rubber seal, the hole and the stem are slightly tapered.  Somehow the machining is not quite a perfect match, or the chrome plating destroys the perfection of the fit.

I use a Badger 200 and the cup falls out at inopportune moments as well!  It's just an wear/age thing.  Actually, when I used to use the jar, it used to fall out when I least expected it to.  I switched to the cup because I am lazy; it is only one thing to clean versus the jar, lid, and siphon tube.

Spray Gunner has the full body and fine needle set for $40.

If my Badger 200 croaked out I'd probably get a Badger 150, same same but double action. Or maybe a 100 if I wanted gravity feed and use my old needle sets.

Meanwhile try some bees wax on the jar cap spigot and put it back on the body that way. That's what we do with fly rod furrels.

Just a thought, Don.  How old is your 200?  I know you use it a lot.  The spout on the bottles is tapered.  It is a jam fit in the body of the brush.  If the opening in the body is worn enough that it slips past that taper, you will never get a tight join.  The brush body is brass, the spout is steel.

If that is the case, you could replace the body for less than $35.  Here  is a source.

Don

Push in and twist at the same time ( not too hard or you'll never get it out). I do that with my 200 and also Paasche H, especially with the side color cup..

Don, I had the same problem years ago with the first 200 that I owned (and which was in fact the first 'real' AB I ever had). I ended up roughening the end of the nozzle with emery cloth, which did the trick. (I was afraid removing the nickel plating would encourage corrosion, but it was never really a problem.)

The 'glue' idea didn't occur to me, but it isn't a bad one; you didn't say which one you used...but would something like clear silicone work any better?

Is there a rubber seal in the a/b body? It may be tired.