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Panel line help!!!

8 replies
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  • Member since
    May 2019
Panel line help!!!
Posted by Brocksamson7 on Monday, May 20, 2019 4:48 PM


having trouble with panel lining. Used mr color lacquer paint and primer and thinner. Gloss coated with mr color thinner and testors glosscote (lacquer).

made a wash with testors enamel thinner and enamel black paint. Filled line. About 8 seconds later paint comes right off. Any help?

  • Member since
    April 2019
Posted by Crimm on Tuesday, May 21, 2019 3:23 PM

Hopefully someone with actual experience will answer you, but my first thought is that 8 seconds doesn't seem like enough time for anything to have set. Are you following any particular instructions or tutorials?

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Tuesday, May 21, 2019 4:05 PM

I've never tried that combination. But I'm a little surprised that putting paint thinner on Gloss Coat didn't dissolve it and create a mess. 

I use thinner based washes over acrylic gloss coats. I also wait anywhere up to 15 minutes before I wipe at it. 

But that's a different combo.

Modeling is an excuse to buy books


  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Tuesday, May 21, 2019 4:06 PM

You need to use an Acrylic gloss coat. As i understand it you can't use enamel or oil washes on lacquer paints as they are both chemical based.

''I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so''

On the bench: Academy 1/35th Warrior FV511

  • Member since
    July 2013
  • From: Chicago area
Posted by modelmaker66 on Tuesday, May 21, 2019 4:33 PM

Everone is correct. You are going to ruin you work. You should alyways use acrylic weathering over eanamel or lacquer gloss coat. Or gloss coat with acrylic and use enamel based washes and weathering. Regardless, the panel liner needs to be on there 20-30 min. before wiping away. Lucky you were impatient or it probobly would have melted the gloss and the paint in that time. You also may have over done the paint or probobly the gloss coat and it filled up the panel lines somewhat that the panel line wash had no where to go. I'm not going to say strip the paint and start over. You can not have panel liner at all and laeave it and do it properly on your next kit or use a good acrylic panel liner or wash on it now.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Tuesday, May 21, 2019 4:53 PM

I think you saved yourself by not letting the wash sit on there for any amount of time.

Acrylic gloss coat is good stuff. It can even be applied over dried, cured acrylic colors. I typically use a combination of acrylic and enamel paint for my color coats, depending on what I need and what I have. 

Here's a case in point. I'm just finishing a big motorcycle model. The fiberglass is all yellow, in this case Tamiya acrylic. I coated it with multiole applications of acrylic floor finish to get a nice shiny finish. Stupidly, I was touching up all around on the bike with black Testors enamel on a fine pointed brush. I picked the thing up to turn it around and of course stuck a finger in wet black paint. Then grabbed the bike by the tank and moved it again.

Big black fingerprint right on the tank, including across the decal. Yes, sh*t happens. So I dipped a piece of paper towel in paint thinner and wiped it. Fingerprint came right off, no harm done to the gloss finish or the decal.

Another nice thing about acrylic clear coat is that it can be removed from on top of enamel (not on acrylic) with an ammonia solution like window cleaner. If you dip an aircraft canopy in clear acrylic, and later mask and paint the frames, then get bleed under the tape, the whole mess can be removed with Windex and you can start over.

Hope that's helpful,



Modeling is an excuse to buy books


  • Member since
    May 2019
Posted by Brocksamson7 on Tuesday, May 21, 2019 11:03 PM

Thank you everyone for your input.

the odd thing is I never wiped it. Literally as I was applying I noticed the lining was getting murky cuz paint was lifting up under it after just a few seconds. 

I’m gonna give it a try with acrylic gloss. 

What I don’t understand though is why this would work? I’m under the impression that acrylic is the least durable and that stacking enamel or lacquer on top of it burns through it? The order that was explained to me was lacquer>enamel>acrylic 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, May 22, 2019 8:44 AM

I have frequently used enamel washes over Testors glosscoat and dullcoat.  Make sure  you let it dry- not just dry to the touch but really dry, maybe a full day.

Also I try to avoid getting any of the wash on the panel surface next to the line.  I apply the wash with a fork made from a sewing needle so the wash stays in the groove.


Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Towson MD
Posted by gregbale on Wednesday, May 22, 2019 9:26 AM

What I don’t understand though is why this would work? I’m under the impression that acrylic is the least durable and that stacking enamel or lacquer on top of it burns through it?

Cured acrylic is highly resistant to the solvents in enamels...somewhat less-so to those in lacquers...but unless you're putting down great sloshing puddles of the wash, there should be no problem for either.

One friendly advisory, based on experience:

If you hand-brush your acrylic clear coat...make sure the entire surface is covered, with no gaps [easy enough to overlook, working with a clear liquid]. If there are uncovered areas, the thinner-based wash will find them instantly and 'bloom' into a messy spot that's annoying to try to correct. Embarrassed


 George Lewis:

"Every time you correct me on my grammar I love you a little fewer."


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