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Tamiya flat clear hazing?

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  • Member since
    June, 2018
Tamiya flat clear hazing?
Posted by TankerEasy on Monday, August 26, 2019 12:38 PM

So its happened to me more than once, and im not sure whats causing it.  Like the title states ive had Tamiya flat clear haze on me more than once, most recently i shot mixed 50:50 with iso alcohol, to which it hazed really bad.  I wet sanded using 3500 grit and re-shot mixed 50:50 with x-20a which cleared up most the hazing, but i still had a couple small spots.  I sprayed it using my Badger 105 xtreme at 18 to 20psi.  Is there something im doing wrong? 

Air Force vet (2006-2012)

PC gamer, rig specs: i7-7700K (overclocked), MSI GTX 1080 gpu, 16 gigs G.skill Trident Z ram, Phanteks case with purdy lights CoolCool

Recently completed: 1:16 Dragon figure (for now)

On the bench: 1:48 Academy F-4C Phantom II "Scat 27, Robin Olds' aircraft"

 

 

 

  • Member since
    July, 2018
  • From: The Deep Woods
Posted by Tickmagnet on Monday, August 26, 2019 1:38 PM

I just sprayed my SBD and use the stuff all the time without issues. I typically mix it 50/50 with Tamiya X20A thinner and nothing else. Could be the alcohol you added or your atmospheric conditions.

 

 

  • Member since
    May, 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Monday, August 26, 2019 2:42 PM

The .3mm nozzle of the Badger Extreme wouldn't be my first choice for any clear coat. Bigger is better. My guess is you are spraying from too far away and the paint is drying before it hits the model. And yes, I have done that too. I've also had trouble spraying flat coats to heavy and close. I guess you need to find a middle ground.

A tip I learned here is a nice gloss coat over the top of the unwanted hazy finish will make it go away and when dry, you can flat coat over it again.

-Greg

  • Member since
    June, 2018
Posted by TankerEasy on Wednesday, August 28, 2019 8:44 AM

Greg

The .3mm nozzle of the Badger Extreme wouldn't be my first choice for any clear coat. Bigger is better. My guess is you are spraying from too far away and the paint is drying before it hits the model. And yes, I have done that too. I've also had trouble spraying flat coats to heavy and close. I guess you need to find a middle ground.

A tip I learned here is a nice gloss coat over the top of the unwanted hazy finish will make it go away and when dry, you can flat coat over it again.

 

 

Thanks for the advice!  I'm gonna try using my Iwata neo for another coat, and ill try spraying a bit closer, would you recommend still doing a 50:50 mix with x-20a and 18-20 psi?

Air Force vet (2006-2012)

PC gamer, rig specs: i7-7700K (overclocked), MSI GTX 1080 gpu, 16 gigs G.skill Trident Z ram, Phanteks case with purdy lights CoolCool

Recently completed: 1:16 Dragon figure (for now)

On the bench: 1:48 Academy F-4C Phantom II "Scat 27, Robin Olds' aircraft"

 

 

 

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, August 28, 2019 9:43 AM

It could be humidity.  Rapid drying solvents such as alcohol and lacquer thinner actually cool the surface when they evaporate. If the humidity is too high, the cooling can lower the temp of the paint surface below the dew point.  Water then condenses on the surface giving a frosty effect.  Be sure to check the dewpoint when using lacquer or high alcohol fraction solvents.  Among painters this effect is called blushing.  Google "paint blushing."

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    August, 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Wednesday, August 28, 2019 11:20 PM

Are you using the clear flat XF-86 or the "Flat Base" X-21? They are very different animals.

  • Member since
    June, 2018
Posted by TankerEasy on Thursday, August 29, 2019 5:24 AM

XF-86, and i live in southeast georgia, so humidity is definetly a factor.....

Air Force vet (2006-2012)

PC gamer, rig specs: i7-7700K (overclocked), MSI GTX 1080 gpu, 16 gigs G.skill Trident Z ram, Phanteks case with purdy lights CoolCool

Recently completed: 1:16 Dragon figure (for now)

On the bench: 1:48 Academy F-4C Phantom II "Scat 27, Robin Olds' aircraft"

 

 

 

  • Member since
    August, 2019
  • From: Brisbane Australia
Posted by Josh_the_painter on Monday, September 02, 2019 8:24 AM

I just posted in another thread in regards to flat clear, it may help you understand whats happening.

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/tools_techniques_and_reference_materials/f/18/t/182743.aspx

I dont know if it will open a direct link or have to copy and paste into your browser sorry.

I hope it helps.

Josh

  • Member since
    April, 2019
  • From: Alabama
Posted by Srpuln10 on Sunday, September 08, 2019 11:38 PM

I use Iwata neo and haven't had a problem. My pressure is around what you use. XF-86 is what I use. I've never used the other. So I can't say about the other. Good luck. It's happened to me and probably everyone sometime or another. 

2 Cor 6:17

  • Member since
    June, 2018
Posted by TankerEasy on Wednesday, September 11, 2019 12:16 PM

Josh_the_painter

I just posted in another thread in regards to flat clear, it may help you understand whats happening.

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/tools_techniques_and_reference_materials/f/18/t/182743.aspx

I dont know if it will open a direct link or have to copy and paste into your browser sorry.

I hope it helps.

Josh

 

 

Thats some awesome info!  Looking forward to spraying again once i finish the decals and see how it goes!

Air Force vet (2006-2012)

PC gamer, rig specs: i7-7700K (overclocked), MSI GTX 1080 gpu, 16 gigs G.skill Trident Z ram, Phanteks case with purdy lights CoolCool

Recently completed: 1:16 Dragon figure (for now)

On the bench: 1:48 Academy F-4C Phantom II "Scat 27, Robin Olds' aircraft"

 

 

 

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