Hey monrad, folks
My apologies – I had a half dozen posts in this thread which I deleted in a pretty immature response to some dill who took exception to my analasys of ‘Red Brown Primer’ and sent me a pretty acrimonious email. Just let me say that I am absolutely certain the sender was NOT anyone with a post in this thread. Anyway after settlin’ down some, I realise that my response was pretty unfair to Monrad and/or anybody else looking for the answer – so here, as best as I can remember, is the basis of my previous posts:
All German armour (and possibly other vehicles) were finished in a red brown primer. This colour has the technical designation RAL 8012 Red Brown. All you ever wanted to know about RAL 8012 and its application can be found here: http://miniatures.de/html/int/camouflageWi.html
The one thing this article
doesn’t tell us is what colour it was, in the sense that it doesn't give us a model paint manufacturer’s stock number. Now ‘colour’, its use and application is my thing! I don’t claim to be a particularly good painter, but that’s something different again. Anyway I decided that to help Monrad (and anybody else) out I would try to produce a ‘universal’ recipe for Ral 8012 that would work no matter what manufacturer’s paint you use. It’s actually a colour that
should be available, because late in the war it is certain that many vehicles had their interior left in bare primer, and it is very possible that some vehicles may have seen action with incomplete oversprays, the primer being left as the ‘red’ camouflage colour.
One colour that the model paint manufacturers DO however supply us with is the OTHER red-brown colour used on German vehicles, the one used in the late war camo schemes. This colour was designated RAL 8017 Chocolate Brown and it is close enough to 8012 that I think it can be reasonably easily mixed back to the other colour.
The official recipe for RAL 8012 Red Brown (PRIMER COLOUR) is:
34,8 Parts Sicotan Yellow L 2110
5,9 Parts Paliogen Red L 4120
47,2 Parts Bayferrox Red 130 M
6,9 Parts Titanium Dioxide 2310
5,3 Parts Lamp Black 101
RAL 8017 Chocolate Brown (CAMO COLOUR) on the other hand is:
18,3 Parts Sicotan Yellow L 1912
48,5 Parts Bayferrox Red 130 M
4,4 Parts Titanium Dioxide 2310
28,8 Parts Lamp Black 101
Now
ignoring quantities for the moment it can be seen that the ingredients for the two paints are identical except that 8012 contains a small quantity of Paliogen Red. This is a colour not unlike the red found on the lower part of ship hulls. The other major difference is that the camo colour contains a heck of a lot more black.
So as compared to the camo colour, the Primer was very slightly redder, a good deal yellower, and a heck of a lot lighter.
Here then is my ‘universal’ red primer recipe, which should work for most brands of paint, acrylic or enamel.
10 drops whatever-you-use-for-red-brown-camo colour
2 drops bright yellow
1 drop bright red
4 drops white
If it looks too dark still, add more white, or a little more yellow. Be careful of adding more red - you risk turning it pink instead of red-brown. If it starts to go pink and you want it lighter, try adding a very light brown like Khaki Drill.
Do not get too worked up about getting it
exactly right – it is a paint that was intended to be covered over and it would have faded FAST! Just avoid at all costs finishing up with a
pink primer! If you use Humbrol enamels - the paints I am most familliar with - the colour you are aiming for is browner than 70 and redder and lighter than 186. And whatever you do, don't
ever try to match a colour to a swatch on a computer monitor or one from your printer! Very few things in life are certain, but I
guarantee you that your monitor and/or printer show it wrong!
Playing around with colour is fun. Remember that everyone percieves colour differently, and that any colour will change with different lighting conditions. Just mix away, and at some point something inside will click, you will sigh or smile and
know that you have got it!
Cheers, Andy!