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primer's which is best

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  • Member since
    July 2013
primer's which is best
Posted by steve5 on Wednesday, November 6, 2019 11:52 PM

as the title suggests , what is your go to primer . me I just seem to be able not to use them , polyurethene's I'm hopeless with , just can't use them , rattle can's just seem too expensive for me , any help greatly appreciated .

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Thursday, November 7, 2019 3:14 AM

Alclad, never had any issues with that.

''I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so''

On the bench:

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by steve5 on Thursday, November 7, 2019 3:43 AM

I have never used alclad , it's a lacquer right , do you have to mix it ?

love your least we forget too .

 

  • Member since
    November 2018
Posted by oldermodelguy on Thursday, November 7, 2019 4:50 AM

I went to Stynylrez two years ago and it's all I use now. No mixing other than shaking it up, shoot it straight from the bottle.If you try it, Clean your airbrush right away though, if it dries inside it's tough to get clean, more difficult than dried lacquer anyway..

I can't say which is best. For me Stynylrez seems to tick most of the boxes I need ticked.

  • Member since
    April 2004
Posted by Jon_a_its on Thursday, November 7, 2019 6:03 AM

oldermodelguy

I went to Stynylrez two years ago and it's all I use now. No mixing other than shaking it up, shoot it straight from the bottle.If you try it, Clean your airbrush right away though, if it dries inside it's tough to get clean, more difficult than dried lacquer anyway..

I can't say which is best. For me Stynylrez seems to tick most of the boxes I need ticked.

 

 
This!
Thinnest to Thickest: Glossy black, then black, yellow, sand, red, grey(s) & white

It behaves the way I like, & can be sanded, filled over, reworked, & it sticks like it should.

For rattlecans, I still use Halfords (UK) primer, as this does stick to aluminium gun barrels
 

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 http://www.eastmidsmodelclub.co.uk/

Don't feed the CM!

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Thursday, November 7, 2019 6:20 AM

steve5

I have never used alclad , it's a lacquer right , do you have to mix it ?

love your least we forget too .

 

No, all the Alclad stuff can be straight straight from the bottle. Their primer comes in white grey and black.

''I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so''

On the bench:

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Thursday, November 7, 2019 6:39 AM

Been using Tamiya Extra Fine or Mr Surfacer 1200,both in the rattlecan.

  • Member since
    July 2018
  • From: The Deep Woods
Posted by Tickmagnet on Thursday, November 7, 2019 8:08 AM

Another vote for Stynylrez. I've been using it for over a year and it works great under Tamiya Acrylics.

 

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Thursday, November 7, 2019 8:32 AM

I use the Tamiya primers for plastic.  I find, however, it does not get a good grip on metals. For metal parts I use an automotive primer.  Rustoleum sandable primer works fair on metals too.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Thursday, November 7, 2019 9:37 AM

oldermodelguy
I went to Stynylrez two years ago and it's all I use now.

Me too. Love the stuff.

Used to use Tamiya Surface Primer and Alclad Primer. Haven't used either in couple years now.

-Greg

  • Member since
    March 2015
Posted by JohnnyK on Thursday, November 7, 2019 10:11 AM

If I want to put down a thick coat of primer I use Testors rattle can primer. If I want to put down a fine coat of primer I use Tamyia rattle can.

  • Member since
    November 2018
Posted by oldermodelguy on Thursday, November 7, 2019 11:33 AM

Greg

 

Me too. Love the stuff.

Used to use Tamiya Surface Primer and Alclad Primer. Haven't used either in couple years now.

I used Floquil and when they went out, went to rattle cans for a bunch of years. Now stynylrez, unless they screw it up I doubt I'll change from it. Shot some black styn today actually.

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Thursday, November 7, 2019 11:44 AM

I use Tamiya's Fine Surface Primer, have never had any issues with it.  It covers well, so despite its relatively higher price, I find it goes a long way.

I also have used Rust-Oleum's primer, which also works OK, but it's not as finely-grained as Tamiya's primer.

And I have used WalMart's house brand, which was very reasonably priced, and covered well.  But I went through a batch of their rattlecans whose nozzles clogged up with half the can of paint left.  It wasn't the plastic nozzle top-it was a clog in the neck of the can.  So I stopped using it.

If you're not using rattlecans, then do you airbrush your primer coats, or do you apply them by hand?  There is no right or wrong, I'm just curious.

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by steve5 on Thursday, November 7, 2019 10:34 PM

thank's for the input gentlemen , I have ordered some stynylrez metal primer and some ordinary acrylic grey primer , will see how it goes .I had honestly never heard of the brand .

baron , I like to use an airbrush , I get a much better finish . unfortunately we don't have a wallmart in aus , would love one . rattle cans here are about $16-$20 for the small one's , too rich for me .

 

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Friday, November 8, 2019 12:01 PM

Thanks, I asked because it wasn't clear from your original post.  You mentioned cost, and the cost of an airbrush upfront, and in terms of maintenance, can be more than rattlecans, depending on the timeframe.  But if you have to pay $20 for a can of primer, I can understand.  Rattlecans are nowhere near that price for me here in SE PA, even if I order online.

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

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