Furnace blower spraybooth advice (Acrylic Aerosol Cans + 2k Clear)

I just found this Marine bilge blower that seems to protect against ignition: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N9QZFC/ref=twister_B01N44KI89?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Would this be good for my use?

I'll try to help. May take a little while but I'll try not to be too long winded...

This topic has been discussed a lot in the past and some of the discussions have been quite heated so, you never know what may come up. I see what your idea is and that may work just fine for you. I built an enclosure. My booth ended up being about 16 and a half inches inside; width, height and depth. I have a door on the front so that I can keep the inside clean and to leave parts in to dry without worrying about dust. I mounted some small florescent lights inside and used a piece of Lexan for the top. I used a Dayton blower rated at 265 cm that has worked fine for me both with airbrushing and aerosols. I use a furnace filter inside and made the booth a couple inches deeper to create a plenum of sorts. I have intended to build another larger booth but haven't as yet. I may do that soon as I have become interested in larger scale models and I would also make it large enough to spray rifle stocks and Duracoat parts. But this booth has served me well and I've been using it since 2003.

Now, it does not use an explosion proof blower. Things have changed a lot over the years. I see that today that type blower is much more expensive than it was back then. I paid around $63 for the blower I used and I believe a comparable explosion proof was around $200 - 250. But I could be wrong. From what I looked at this morning, they're much more expensive now. 

Anyway, here are my thoughts. I'm no expert and I may have only survived by the grace of God. Or, just plain fools luck. But I haven't blown myself up yet or caught anything on fire. Not gonna give details but I have done things I probably shouldn't have. With this type blower the motor is out of the airflow. One thing you mentioned is starting the blower in advance and that's probably a good idea. I do use an enclosure so it is turned on in advance. What you show is free standing and basically has a filter just to capture particulates. In that case the room you are in is the booth and I don't know how that would work. How it would affect airflow. Not to tell you what to do but I would build a booth sized to what I was going to be working on and then size the blower accordingly. All I know for sure is, it's worked for me.

Here is a link to the information i used years ago: http://modelpaint.tripod.com/booth2.htm

I hope it works, I can't seem to create a hyperlink. It is dated, the blowers suggested have been superceded out of existence, but the calculations work if you care to use them. Here is a link to some current blowers available at Grainger: https://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/DAYTON-DAYTON-OEM-Specialty-Blowers-WP5003204/_/N-ymuZ1z0kty9Z1z0n8ogZ1z0kty6/Ntt-dayton+blower?R=6FHX9&rel=tab&sst=All

The blower you suggested is for DC applications and not AC so I don't know if that would work but that is the general type. I hope that helps and isn't information overload. Good luck 

Thank you very much. As far as the booth sketch I made goes, it was quite rudamentary. I do plan on having this enclosure on a bench top and will be closing the sides and top off with plastic sheeting.Here's another sketch i made

 

I noticed how these threads can go and it's quite a debated topic. Fact of the matter is I think I have to go with a squirrel cage motor and I'm leaning towards something dayton. The bilge fan I found looked promising but I don't think 250cfm would be enough for using aerosols with my preferred filter size, even with short ducting.

That looks great! There's so many points of discussion around these things and we all have our own ideas. Mine draws through the back and I like the way that works. I made a plate and mounted the blower directly to the back of the booth. That makes it pretty deep and the room I'm in now isn't that big so I'm planning to move the blower under the bench and run duct to it and then to the window. I used an aluminium flexible dryer hose for the exhaust with a dryer vent cover on the end. Cut a piece of plywood to fit the window and close the window on it. Not as efficient as regular smooth tubing but it's much more rigid than plastic hose. Please, let us know what you end up with. I bought from Grainger because I could buy at a discount through my employer at the time. And, Amazon didn't exist then. :-)

So even with squirrel cage blowers being an option, I can't really shake the paranoia about the chace of something bad happening.

After finding that 250 cfm 'ignition-protected' marine bilge blower, I thought I was on the right track but I was worried about it only being 250 cfm.

Luckily, I just found a 350 cfm ignition protected bilge blower: https://www.seamar.com/item/DLT304121IP/BLOWER-12V-4-350CFM-FLEX/

I think that this is the sweet spot with power and also having the extra peace of mind with fire related issues, especially since I'm running very minimal ducting (2-4 feet to the outside wall).

I'm still researching like crazy but I might land on this just to ease my mind.

Whatever works for you and you're happy with. But the blowers you've shown are for 12 volt DC. If you're using this in a house or apartment you need one that runs on 110 volt AC. Unless you're using a battery or an inverter.

This is a spray booth that I made. It is composed of two basic parts; a removable plastic spray box, and a wood plenum which holds a furnace filter and a blower. I bought a plastic storage box from IKEA and cut a hole in the  long side. The side with the hole will become the bottom of the spray box. The wood plenum is a simple box with four sides and a bottom. The plenum is made from MDF boards. A furnace filter is located between the plastic spray box and the plenum. A corse screen is located above the filter. The plastic spray box is removable from the plenum so that the filter can be replaced. I used a blower that I bought from Granger. The blower is designed with the electric motor located outside of the airflow. This prevents the electric motor from getting gummed-up by the paint vapors and so that any explosive vapors are not ignited by the electric fan. The blower is vented to the outside. 

Yeah I would need an inverter. The spec sheet says the fan draws 16 amps @ 12v: https://deltatsystems.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/4InchDCBlowerSpecSheet2017.pdf

What kind of inverter should I be looking for?

Edit: An electrical engineer friend of mine shared this with me https://voltage-converter-transformers.com/collections/heavy-duty-ac-to-dc-power-converter/products/df-1766-universal-ac-to-dc-converter-output-13-8v-dc-max-25-amps?gclid=Cj0KCQiAk7TuBRDQARIsAMRrfUbTWwVEyD9Mwok1Z73JFznIBJV6jrmHfRqhmr-MaBROteBkvGulE3UaAvxiEALw_wcB

Thank you for sharing that here, I think I saw a previous post of yours while doing this research.

Does granger still sell this blower? What are the specs?

You can buy the blower at Amazon   https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Model-1TDR3-Blower-4C447/dp/B018A1UMMG

 

That's basically the same blower I'm using. I have to clean the fan occasionally but its been trouble free. I have no idea about what inverter to use. Wish I could help.

One thing you might keep in mind if you are using a furnace blower you picked up someplace. Be sure you have some restriction on that discharge side or it's going to overheat the blower motor.