SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Rattle can

1405 views
11 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    April 2019
  • From: Alabama
Rattle can
Posted by Srpuln10 on Sunday, November 10, 2019 3:57 PM

Hey guys. This kinda goes with my other question. In the set I bought it says to put a black base coat down before I start the  process. Can I use a rattle can of flat black that I can buy at Walmart or somewhere as such. If it's just a base and it's going to be painted over It'll be ok. It'll save time of hand painting or mixing for an airbrush. Tks guys for the info

2 Cor 6:17

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Sunday, November 10, 2019 4:41 PM

Yes, but be judicious in your application.  The solvent vehicle in the paint may craze the plastic if sprayed on too heavily.  

Spray in multiple light coats instead of one heavy one. 

Same goes for paints & primers from the auto supply store

  • Member since
    April 2019
  • From: Alabama
Posted by Srpuln10 on Sunday, November 10, 2019 6:01 PM
Is there any certain kind that'll be better than the others.

2 Cor 6:17

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Sunday, November 10, 2019 9:38 PM

This isn't going to be successful. Testor's makes some nice flat black colors in spray cans, enamel.

Hardware store paint is something like a self-inflicted wound.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    April 2019
  • From: Alabama
Posted by Srpuln10 on Sunday, November 10, 2019 10:29 PM
Ok tks. I'm starting to use more of Vallejo paint for my miniature painting. I've been using tamiya and it's a great paint. I'll still use it for my armor. I've started buy sets of paint. It takes a lot of guess work out for me. I've been modeling for about a year. So the less guess work the better for me.

2 Cor 6:17

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Sunday, November 10, 2019 11:00 PM

Good idea, what is you current subject interest? That make a difference too.

 

Bill

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    April 2019
  • From: Alabama
Posted by Srpuln10 on Monday, November 11, 2019 12:37 AM
I'm into WWll. I've done several armor and a lot of miniatures. I find myself more drawn to the miniatures. But I've gotten to do two diaromas. I have a couple of diaromas that I'm kicking around in the head. If I'm going to do these things I want it to look right. I'll take any and all advice. I'm still learning. Tks

2 Cor 6:17

  • Member since
    November 2018
Posted by oldermodelguy on Monday, November 11, 2019 5:15 AM

There was a time back when Floquil went out and I was into model railroads and trains in general. In that time I made good use of Krylon rattle cans, heated in hot water. Many of the flats and semiglosses worked but that season has passed. Today they might be good enough for a diorama base coat, maybe structure siding etc.. At that they never were close to the equal of Floquil ( not sure any paint is )for armor or rolling stock etc. in terms of color accuracy or film thickness. But I got by with them and things looked quite acceptable if you stood back 3 ft.. You need model paint if you want to look close.

You can use anything on diorama terrain and such though, stick with flats. I/ve even brushed latex house paint on for that sort of thing. It's generally just a base and from there you do things like flock or grasses etc anyway.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Monday, November 11, 2019 9:05 AM

Depends on what the base coat is going under.  If it is Alclad, the black must be a flawless gloss.  So the black must be very shiny and go down smoothly without runs.  I have used auto lacquers on occasion, but used to use Testors gloss black. I would put down a rattle can first coat, sand, then airbrush on a second coat.

More recently I have taken to Tamiya gloss black spray cans TS14.  I have had a hard time finding it- my LHS cannot even order it :-(

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Monday, November 11, 2019 9:09 AM

Srpuln10

Is there any certain kind that'll be better than the others.

 

 
I'm going to depart from some of the posts which may be discouraging or  possibly just plain wrong and go back to your question.
 
Krylon is good for your priming needs.   Their Fusion primer + paint brand seems to work well.  I have long used their spray red primer on ship models and build up the colors as on the prototype as laying over red lead.  I also use the red primer as the finish on lower hulls, and have been known to use their gray on upperworks.   Again, the tip is to go slow,  better two or three light coats than one heavy one.   You don't get as bad a heavy build up  that may obscure details and/or craze the plastic.   Krylon is available in most big box DIY stores: Lowes, Home Despot, Ace, etc.
 
Rustoleum Painter's Touch is also one of my go tos.  They make different red & gray primer shades.   Go slow!   This is also available in many of the big box stores.
 
Testors spray paint is made by Rustoleum.
 
Walmart used to carry a spray brand that was recommended on some model boards.   I shop Walmart only rarely, and not for home improvement supplies.   If you have a walmart handy, try their paint on a test mule.   Again, go slow.
 
I've used Duplicolor Auto primer on metal figures.   It is a bit hotter and more of a heavy build spray.   It has worked on my application.   I got mine at O'Reilly's Auto Parts,  but should be available in many auto shops.
 
Stay away from spray lacquers.   They are very hot and WILL craze plastic.   Even going slow, a second coat may craze the first.    However, I have seen exquisite car models done in lacquer.   It takes time and practice.  Lacquer really needs to be sanded between coats to develop a deep gloss shine.   I have done 15 coats of gloss black lacquer on a wood project, but it was flat surfaces and took time.   If you must go this route, go slow and allow the coaty to fully cure before moving on
  • Member since
    April 2019
  • From: Alabama
Posted by Srpuln10 on Thursday, November 14, 2019 11:40 PM
Go to hobbylinc and they'll have it.

2 Cor 6:17

  • Member since
    April 2019
  • From: Alabama
Posted by Srpuln10 on Thursday, November 14, 2019 11:43 PM
Tks for the info.

2 Cor 6:17

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.