Mission Model Paints

jhawk

I used MMP to paint my U.S. Army Chaparral in Olive Drab. I followed the MMP instructions for thinning the paint. I had no problems at all. No tip drying, no clogs, no problems at all. Paint went on smoothly and held up well when I handled the model. I cleaned with tap water then some of their thinner\cleaner. I tried MMP after giving up on Vallejo paints. I had such a horrible tip drying problem with Vallejo even though I used their paint, their thinner, their instruction, and added a retarder. Yuck, I'll never use Vallejo again. MMP worked really well for me and that's the paint I'll use in the future.

 

Same experience using both products. I have a really bad time with tip drying using Vallejo even though I used their proprietary thinner and retarder. What a difference using MMP and their thinner and poly additive. This stuff is so durable that I even sanded/polished it with a 1200 grit pad and polished out beautifully while Vallejo would peel on some areas.  I'm stuck with some Vallejo bottles I got on sale a while back and will be using them but will not be replaced with Vallejo again. 

I used MMP to paint my U.S. Army Chaparral in Olive Drab. I followed the MMP instructions for thinning the paint. I had no problems at all. No tip drying, no clogs, no problems at all. Paint went on smoothly and held up well when I handled the model. I cleaned with tap water then some of their thinner\cleaner. I tried MMP after giving up on Vallejo paints. I had such a horrible tip drying problem with Vallejo even though I used their paint, their thinner, their instruction, and added a retarder. Yuck, I'll never use Vallejo again. MMP worked really well for me and that's the paint I'll use in the future.

PJ,

Thanks for the response. I guess I'll try cleaning with 91% alcohol next time after having done the Mission Models thinner and water thing ... then to make sure I've gotten all alcohol residue out of the A/B I'll spray distilled water (maybe a couple of cups) through after putting the A/B back together.

I'm looking forward to trying this stuff out. The tiny parts I've just painted aren't enough to give me an idea as to how this paint works.

 

This is what I do and works for me every time....

After I'm done with the MMP paint, I shoot several ab cups of water to get most of it out.  I then use  lacquer thinner (yes they say not to do this) and shoot several AB cups of the LT to remove all paint residues.

I then break the ab down and scrub with LT. Assemble the ab then shoot lots of water to get rid of any LT contamination. Done.

The trick is flushing out the ab of any chemical that will react with MMP products. Lots of flushing using water will do the trick to get rid of the LT or any solvent thinner used.

I appreciate your having started this thread as I have some MMP that I plan to use on my 1/48 Supermarine Walrus. Yesterday I shot some Nato Black on the back of one of the IP pieces. Went on fine (10 drops paint, 2 drops of both thinner and poly). I then shot distilled water through the A/B followed by several drops of thinner. Shot more water onto white papter towel and saw no color. But, and this is because I just can't stand not knowing if the needle is really clean or not, I did what I have always done .. break down the A/B and clean everything I can reach. Looked like some paint might have been left on the needle before I cleaned it with the MMP thinner.

I sure wish I knew if I could use my 91% IPA to clean the brush after having gotten most of the paint off by using a few drops of MMP thinner followed by a cupfull of distilled H2O.  The MMP site suggests it might gum up the works ...? Thoughts?

Bob D

Be careful with the Poly. I have a bottle and when i went to use it, it was like thick Honey. Would not pour out of the bottle. Maybe I got a bad batch.

 

Yes it’s a bad bottle. I would contact MMP and ask for a replacement.

Be careful with the Poly. I have a bottle and when i went to use it, it was like thick Honey. Would not pour out of the bottle. Maybe I got a bad batch.

ZAT

I keep wanting to like the paint, but have had not very good results. Low odor and water clean up seem nice. Ive tried to follow the FAQ to the letter and failed to get results I liked. The paint peeled right off a model that I primed with their primer and painted with their paint. Granted I used Tamiya Gloss clear coat instead of the MM clear coat, so maybe that was the issue. There is a web site, no affiliation, Model Paint Solutions who has some advice for thinning. He uses two techniques. One resembles the FAQ while the other noted in his P38 build notes where he thins the paint with a premix of MMP thinner and 30% MMP Clear Primer. Haven't tried that method yet. Maybe when my LHS gets some inventory of the Clear Primer in I will try again.

 

I used Testors small bottle enamel black and tans for the marbling then shot MMP camo grey over it and it sprayed super smooth. I even sanded the grey with 1500 grit pads as I usually do to get a semigloss ultra smooth finish when using flat paints and it didn't peel, lift or scratch.  Tamiya gloss was used for decal application and Tamiya flat afterwards used with no issues.

Here is a picture of the MMP grey om my Thud

I keep wanting to like the paint, but have had not very good results. Low odor and water clean up seem nice. Ive tried to follow the FAQ to the letter and failed to get results I liked. The paint peeled right off a model that I primed with their primer and painted with their paint. Granted I used Tamiya Gloss clear coat instead of the MM clear coat, so maybe that was the issue. There is a web site, no affiliation, Model Paint Solutions who has some advice for thinning. He uses two techniques. One resembles the FAQ while the other noted in his P38 build notes where he thins the paint with a premix of MMP thinner and 30% MMP Clear Primer. Haven't tried that method yet. Maybe when my LHS gets some inventory of the Clear Primer in I will try again.

Tojo72

I expect to start my Riich M 109 shortly,I will be sure to report,if not post pictures.

 

Great, thanks!

I expect to start my Riich M 109 shortly,I will be sure to report,if not post pictures.

I hope you follow up here, Tojo.

I tried some a year ago with mixed results. I'm sure I was doing something wrong (and yes, I read all of their FAQ's and instructions and stuff). I never gave it a fair shot.

I remember having a coverage problem, maybe I went too far with all the additives they suggest.

My point, finally, is I'd like to hear more about the stuff.

Tojo I used MMP camo grey on my 1/72 Thud and I was impressed how smooth and even it shot thru my Neo. I used both their thinner and poly additive but added a couple more drops of thinner to make the grey a bit more transparent to let some of the marbling come thru. Follow the directions and make sure you have no solvent contamination in the ab that may have a reaction with the paint.

Sounds good guys,looking forward to try it out.

I've picked up a few bottles of these paints recently.  I used the green zinc chromate on my recent SBD-3, and interior green on my recent F-100D.  I actually did not thin the paint at all, just poured into my Iwata HP-CS and encountered no issues spraying.  I've also brush painted with these paints, with no streaking or other issues.

I’ve used their paints. I add a bit more thinner than the recommended ratio to thin it more for airbrushing. But I’ve never added their urethane mix additive. If any paint I use needs more additions than a thinner, I’ll pass. So far Mission Models paint with just their thinner has airbrushed very well. And it hand brushes quite well too.