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Need some help

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  • Member since
    February 2016
Need some help
Posted by lowfly on Tuesday, March 17, 2020 11:01 AM

Hello all.  I have a weird question......I am currently building a 1/25 Scale 2010 Mustang GT and i changed the wheels.  I am trying to model my actual 2010 Mustang and my wheels are gloss black spokes with a brushed steel rim.  

 

To copy the wheels i used testors gloss black enamel out of a rattle can and i was going to paint the outer rims with tamiya's acrylic paint.  Is this going to work? What will the coverage be? Did i just screw up? If i did.....How can i fix it?  

 

Looking for any help at all here. Thanks in advance

  • Member since
    October 2018
Posted by PGBolt on Tuesday, March 17, 2020 11:06 AM

SHould be no problem putting acrylic over enamel. Might need more than one coat.

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Tuesday, March 17, 2020 6:18 PM

The good news is that should the Tamiya acrylic not look the way you want it to, you can strip it with alcohol without it affecting the underlying black paint. 

  • Member since
    February 2016
Posted by lowfly on Wednesday, March 18, 2020 12:41 PM

Thanks for the replaies and the advice. I will give it a shot this weekend and see if it looks like i want it to.  If i have to strip the enamel off of the wheels will simple green remove it like it did the chrome?

 

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Wednesday, March 18, 2020 1:07 PM

It probably will but that seems unnessecary.

My basic silver go-to paint since when the rocks were still warm is Testor's silver in the little square bottle.

Sure there are a lot of better paints that outperform it in every way, but when I need to brush on detail and get a coat in one application, it's my choice.

If you've let your black cure long enough, say a couple of weeks; you can do just about anything to it except rub it with LT, and it should stay on.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Northeast WA State
Posted by armornut on Wednesday, March 18, 2020 2:18 PM

   How long do you let the chrome parts soak in Simple Green before the part is de-chromed?

we're modelers it's what we do

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Wednesday, March 18, 2020 3:53 PM

armornut

   How long do you let the chrome parts soak in Simple Green before the part is de-chromed? 

If it works like SuperClean, it's a matter of minutes.  I used SC to strip the chrome from chromed sprues, and I could see the chrome dissolve into the solution.  It was all off in two minutes.

 

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Wednesday, March 18, 2020 3:55 PM

If I can add my two bits. It really depends on the chrome, which is usually vacuum applied aluminum.

 

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Northeast WA State
Posted by armornut on Wednesday, March 18, 2020 4:35 PM

   Thank you, dropped a sprue in some simple green a couple hours ago...seems to be working although alittle slow. Gonna proceed with actual parts next. Thanks again for the info.

we're modelers it's what we do

  • Member since
    February 2016
Posted by lowfly on Wednesday, March 18, 2020 6:40 PM

Whenever i dechrome parts i let them sit in the simple green overnight. It doesnt attack the plastic at all and the chrome is USUALLY gone.  You will need to clean the part with soap and water but then you are good to go. 

 

  • Member since
    February 2016
Posted by lowfly on Wednesday, March 18, 2020 6:41 PM

GMorrison

It probably will but that seems unnessecary.

My basic silver go-to paint since when the rocks were still warm is Testor's silver in the little square bottle.

Sure there are a lot of better paints that outperform it in every way, but when I need to brush on detail and get a coat in one application, it's my choice.

If you've let your black cure long enough, say a couple of weeks; you can do just about anything to it except rub it with LT, and it should stay on.

 

 

Thanks GM.  I can always count on you for good info.  I will try it this weekend and see what happens.  I use Tamiya acrylics exclusivly. If it takes more than one coat that will be fine. Thanks again

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Northeast WA State
Posted by armornut on Wednesday, March 18, 2020 6:57 PM

   Thanks Lowfly, after inspecting my test piece I figured out it may take abit...however it does work. Thanks for letting me ask a question within your OP. Much appreciated

we're modelers it's what we do

  • Member since
    February 2016
Posted by lowfly on Tuesday, March 24, 2020 2:37 PM

As a follow up....i deep cleaned my AB yesterday and found a huge chunk of dried paint near the nozzle end of the AB. I really need to get better at cleaning that thing out better. 

 

I also found out that i can remove enamel paint from the wheels of the Mustang with simple green.  It takes a bit longer (2 day soak) and some elbow grease with a old toothbrush but i have repainted them and they like loads better than the hand brushing i did earlier.  I will try and post some WIP photos of the 2010 Mustang. I am trying to copy my 2010 Mustang in model form.  It is coming together nicely and i have the REAL car for reference...lol

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