Airbrushing metallic paints

I've had no trouble shooting Model Master Metalizer paints with either the .25 or .5 nozzle on my Badger 200. Course that's single action. Just give it a swish around now and then. I've also shot metallic paints with the same rig ( colors for model cars, in enamel or acrylic and lacquer). The thing about shooting metallic is keeping the metal suspended, don't let the airbrush just sit idle, keep it moving, swirl the paint around in the cup etc. And lay on even coats, thin coats think less is more.

I have just joined the forums, and am getting back into plastic model building.  I have a Badger airbrush, and as I re-learn how to use it, I came across a vexing problem I hope someone can help with. 

While trying to airbrush Model Master aluminum enamel, proper thinned (or so I think), it simply would not spray... it clogged the airbrush almost immediately, after just a couple of seconds of depressing the trigger.  I tried several different amounts of thinner, swishing the paint jar, everything.  Nothing worked.  I gave up and just used a rattle can (gasp!), with decent results (decent for my skill level anyway!)  Upon cleaning out the paint jar, it looks like tiny metallic bits settle at the bottom immediately, falling out of suspension in the liquid.  Same thing happens with unthinned paint, just not as fast.  So I'm thinking this is my problem.... but not sure.  And unthinned paint is to thick to airbrush.  So what to do?  Sorry for the long, sad story, but any advice is appreciated!  Just getting back into the hobby, I really want to learn how to paint metallics well.  Thanks in advance!!

If you're using Model Master metalizer aluminum then it's not supposed to be thinned. It sprays straight from the jar and covers well without any primer. Being lacquer it also dries very quickly. I recently finished a jar that was at least 2 years old and it was still fine. 

jeffpez

If you're using Model Master metalizer aluminum then it's not supposed to be thinned. It sprays straight from the jar and covers well without any primer. Being lacquer it also dries very quickly. I recently finished a jar that was at least 2 years old and it was still fine. 

 

Nope, it's regular MM enamel.  I do have a couple of MM metalizer laquers that I bought by mistake, and I saw on the label that it's pre-thinned for airbrushing.

RickS

 

Nope, it's regular MM enamel.  I do have a couple of MM metalizer laquers that I bought by mistake, and I saw on the label that it's pre-thinned for airbrushing.

 

Make sure your paint is really mixed/stirred/shaken well,then in a separate little cup using a pipette so you can keep track of quantity of paint and thinner add in you paint and just short of the same anmount of thinner. Mix, stir that really well. MM enamels like  to be mixed between 40% to 50% thinner. If the paint has thickened from age it could be no good but also may need straining and thinning a little past 50/50 ( slightly more thinner). Don't try to eyeball your thinner ratio, use a pipette is my suggestion. MM will thin fine with mineral spirits, their own thinner ( Testors universal not the acrylic stuff lol ) or with hardware store lacquer thinner ( not the green label synthetic lacquer thinner though but the real thing). Clean your airbrush real well and try again, it should spray great.

Metalizer on the other hand will spray right out of the bottle beautifully. Just put down light coats enough to cover.

What did you thin the MM enamel with?

Testors enamel thinner, and generic mineral spirits from Lowe's.  The Testors bottle was running low, so I added the other thinner to fill it back up.  Probably about a 70-30 ratio.

RickS

Testors enamel thinner, and generic mineral spirits from Lowe's.  The Testors bottle was running low, so I added the other thinner to fill it back up.  Probably about a 70-30 ratio.

 

 

Sounds reasonable to me. But I don't know much about thinning enamels. I have used Testors and thinned with Testors enamel thinner. But there wasn't a pandemic in progress getting supplies was not challenging.

I'm sure if there is anything wrong with what you did, somebody will comment.

RickS

Testors enamel thinner, and generic mineral spirits from Lowe's.  The Testors bottle was running low, so I added the other thinner to fill it back up.  Probably about a 70-30 ratio.

 

 

What's 70/30 ? Paint to thinner, thinner to paint or thinner to thinner ? I can tell you if it's 70% paint it's too thick, if it's 70% thinner it's probably too thin and if it's thinner to thinner it probably doesn't matter but could. I'm not 100% sure of the components in Testors enamel thinner. I can say MM enamel will thin fine with either Testors thinner or with mineral spirits but I never tried both at the same time.

Harpman

I have an Iwata Eclipse airbrush that I use to paint for auto finishes as well as military vehicles. I want to try to paint chrome and metallic finishes, but I'm afraid to use my Iwata because of clogging, etc. Should I use a cheap single action airbrush for this or go ahead and use my Iwata?

 

Which brand are you planning on using,I have used Modelmaster Metalics in my Iwata unthinned with no problems.I have also used metal colors from their regular line with proper thinning.

oldermodelguy

 

 

RickS

Testors enamel thinner, and generic mineral spirits from Lowe's.  The Testors bottle was running low, so I added the other thinner to fill it back up.  Probably about a 70-30 ratio.

 

 

 

 

 

What's 70/30 ? Paint to thinner, thinner to paint or thinner to thinner ? I can tell you if it's 70% paint it's too thick, if it's 70% thinner it's probably too thin and if it's thinner to thinner it probably doesn't matter but could. I'm not 100% sure of the components in Testors enamel thinner. I can say MM enamel will thin fine with either Testors thinner or with mineral spirits but I never tried both at the same time.

 

I'm thinking my post was ambiguous and perhaps confusing.  The 70/30 I mentioned had nothing to do with paint, only thinner.  There was about 30% of the Testors enamel thinner left in the bottle when I refilled it with the mineral spirits thinner I bought at Lowe's.  I only mentioned it in case there might be an issue with the generic Lowe's thinner.

RickS

 

I'm thinking my post was ambiguous and perhaps confusing.  The 70/30 I mentioned had nothing to do with paint, only thinner.  There was about 30% of the Testors enamel thinner left in the bottle when I refilled it with the mineral spirits thinner I bought at Lowe's.  I only mentioned it in case there might be an issue with the generic Lowe's thinner.

Depending on location some generic thinners are being over run by synthetic stuff in the stores, so called green friendly. And they don't work well. Usually the cans have green on them and some signage saying green or enviro friendly, new formula etc. If it's not one of those and just plain old MS it should work well in MM enamel. As I mentioned before I've never combined that with Testors though, I've used one or the other but never both..... Not to say it won't work just never tried it.

My go to metal paints for airbrushing with my H&S and 0.4 nozzle are AK's Xtreme Metal and Vallejo Metal colour. All of both ranges are on my paint stand as although there are duplicate colours (Aluminium etc) the shades are different and they sit nicely together.

Neither like being handled or masked so after they are cured I paintbrush on AK's Intermediate Gauzy shine which provides a clear barrier. Both ranges are airbrush ready and you have to shake them alot to make sure the paint is properly mixed. I have put AK stainless steel ball shakers in all of the jars to help with this.

I always make sure that my airbrush is squeaky clean before doing metallics and always clean with the own brand cleaner. THe picture is of Xtreme Metal Stainless Steel put onto the cylinders of Airfix's 1/24 Hellcat Engine. I spray at 18-20 PSI and have never had any issues after I worked out that the paint even when cured doesn't like being handled or masked.

I do believe Model Master is being discontinued.... Am I right?... but I recommend Vallejo's Metal Color and AK's Xtreme Metal without hesitation so long as you remember to use the Gauzy Agent as a protection barrier.

Lots of good info Snap, thank you.  Are the Vallejo and AK paints acrylics?

Vallejo are acrylics.

AK Xtreme Metal are Enamel acording to the label on the bottle and I always without exception use their Xtreme thinner and cleaner after I have done. 

According to their blurb you can mask AK Xtreme metal after 2 hours when primer is not used, or 6 hrs when primer is used. I have found that it doesn't like either masking or being handled. The same with Vallejo Metal Colour.

http://www.ak-masters.com/app/pdf/AK%20894%20INTERMEDIATE%20GAUZY.pdf

http://www.ak-masters.com/app/pdf/AK_XTREME_METAL_tetraptico_2017.pdf

https://acrylicosvallejo.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/vallejo-metal-color-CC069-Rev01.pdf

Neither are hot products and I think they are better than Alclad which is a hot product and despite taking full priming precations etc had no amount of issues with Alclad including not curing and melting an entire aircraft!

As both companies have their own shading systems (vallejo being chipset accurate and AK being scale conversion) then although there are same "colours" crossover they tend to be different shades and by having the entire ranges sitting next to each other then possibilities are endless. You can mix within the ranges, but NOT the two ranges although they will sit on each other and beside each other without any chemican reaction.

Get some and some plastic spoons and try. They handle differently in application with AK being just slightly smoother but your brain will sort things out without you realising it.

Here we have AK's stainless steel for the cylinders and Vallejo Steel for the push rod thingies

So much to learn!  Beautiful work, Snap.  Thanks for sharing.

This question perhaps should be in its own thread, but here goes.... I have watched a couple of very informative videos, and now understand the diff between single and double action.  I have a Badger siphon feed AB, but am thinking about getting a gravity feed.  Am I correct in thinking all GFs are double action?  It seems to me they would just about have to be, otherwise the paint would just run into the airbrush unregulated.  Am I right, or am I missing something?

I prefer a gravity double action.

The way they work is that the paint sits in the cup and the feed system unregulated.

Push down starts the air flowing and pull back starts the paint flowing onto the needle as it pulls the needle back to make a gap for the paint. The further back the bigger the gap the more the paint flow.

The paint and air mix on the edge of the nozzle and needle and carried by the airflow goes on to the model.

My Recommendation is one of these.

https://www.harder-airbrush.eu/en/evolution-108.html#evolutionsolo

It wil do everything you need and the nozzles are seperate drop in ones so there's no breakages with screw in ones as in other brands. This means they are more cost effective. I love mine!

If you have a siphon brush you might want to just get a side cup for it, that's what I use on my Badger 200 for metal paints. Works great around 12-15lb with metalizers where they are very thin products. I have a double action gravity brush too but prefer my 45 yo Badger, it's all about what you get used to using is all and prefer of course. But there is no magic airbrush.