Color and type of paint for panel lines?

Mike -

Actually, it might!!! Gunship gray is still lighter than pencil lead. Remember the darker the paint the lighter (or less contrast) the panel lines will have. You might even be able to get artist pencils it varing shades. (They might be softer, but you could check.) Only way to know is to try. BTW - the penciling was done on the final (flat) color coat, not the clear gloss.

salty - As much cursing as I did while making the kit, I think it was a pretty good kit. Nice detail, pretty good fit, except for the intakes, which is pretty much a given. Also found that the plastic was a bit soft, and I had to repair a few parts before assembly. (Yes, I have 10 thunbs.) It's basically the C model with new intakes. I didn't bother hidding the air brake, just glued it shut. Pretty typical.

Raised panel lines may not be that much of a problem. The pencil trick works, just make sure you darken the same side on all, and position the finished model so that they look like shadows. Else, pre-paint the model black or drak grey, and then buff over the panel lines. You'll rub off the color coat and leave nice black lines. Weather as usual.

Archer out.

QUOTE: Originally posted by jridge Hi Mike: Check out Swanny's web site - http://www.swannysmodels.com/Weathering.html He uses Gumbacher water colors. You can get them at Hobby Lobby or Michael's in 1/4 oz. tubes for $2.50 list price. There's a ton of differnet colors available.

Thanks Jim.
I have read Swanny's site before but was not sure what kind of Grumbacher paints he was referring to as his web site says, "Mix a small amount of acrylic paint, I use Grumbacher paste..."
I didn't know he was referring to water colors. So those are acrylic water colors?

Archer,

That pencil trick is nice on a light-colored bird like the Hornet, but my F-15E is Gunship Gray and I don't think pencil would show well enough would it?

Mike

nice looking bird archer!! i have the itareli F-5E tiger II on the build pile. its coming out next. ive never assembled an itareli kit. this one has raised panel lines which is a bummer but, ill survive. how was your kit? sorry mike, didnt mean to take the thread in a different direction but if you'll allow me this one question........please!! later.

Mike -

All the above suggestions are great, but if you want a quick, and not so dirty method, don't gloss over the old #2 Ticonderoga pencil! Here's a 1/72 Italiari Hornet, with recessed panel lines. I used a very sharp #2 pencil and just followed the lines. After a little pastel weathering, and dull / semi-gloss over coat, you're done.



Archer out.

Hi Mike:

Check out Swanny's web site - http://www.swannysmodels.com/Weathering.html He uses Gumbacher water colors. You can get them at Hobby Lobby or Michael's in 1/4 oz. tubes for $2.50 list price. There's a ton of differnet colors available.

well, while everybody's throwing in there 2 cents, heres mine. i post shade my panel lines with a very thinned tamiya smoke. you can kinda build up dirtied areas especially on grays. if thats not enough, i do a dark gray artist oils wash. later.

Try Grumbacher paste. It's perfect for adding depth to panel lines. It's dark, but not overwhelming. My local art supply store sells it for $8.39 for a pint-size jar.

i use tamiya acrylics. thinned with water. works just fine

Josh,

That is true and I can find one of those coupons for Michael's and get a discount that way.

Pix,

That is an interesting way to do it, but I am not that brave yet.

Mike

Mike - I paint with enamels, glosscoat with Future, apply the decals, apply more Future, then do an enamel wash, thinned with airbrush thinner. The way I do it, you have to be careful. When I remove the excess wash (after an hour or more), I use a #000 brush that has almost all of the thinner removed (almost like drybrushing). Its not for the "faint at heart," and you need to practice to see how much thinner you need to remove from the clean-up brush. I've tried all the other methods (sludge, watercolor, oils), but I prefer the darkened base color, as I'm using it to "shade," and not create a "jig-saw puzzle" look. Its more work, but I'll never do it any other way. I like the results.

The small tubes are only 5 bucks or so. Keep an eye out at Hobby Lobby, they have 2/3 or 1/2 off sales on this stuff all the time. A small tube will last you the rest of your life. I usually buy mine a tube or two at a time, when they have good sales. I get brushes that way also.

Pix,

So you are using the same paints for the highlighting that you used on the model? I used Model Master Acryl and I don't think it would work very well for panel line highlighting would it?

Rick,

Thanks for the tips. I don't have any artists colors at all so I guess I need to buy some. Is there a cheap brand? I can't afford the ones like Windsor & Newton at this time.

Mike

Black is OK on dark colors but if you want to tone it down use Burnt Umber. Type of paint depends on your topcoat, which should be gloss when you do panel lines. Assuming you used an acrylic like Future, then either Artist oils thinned with linseed oil or Artist water colors (the type in a tube, not the solid type we had as kids ) thinned with water will work well. If you use acrylic over Future or other acrylic gloss for panel lines, work on a small area at a time and wipe the spill off before it dries completely. It cures rapidly and can be very difficult to remove if you wait too long. Oils & Water Colors give you much more leeway.

I usually only use black for control surfaces, if the base coat is dark. For a panel line wash, I mix the base color with black until I get a shade that resembles a shadow. I find that using straight black has way too much contrast for my taste. It draws attention to the panel lines, not the model. I would suggest adding a little black to the Gunship Gray, then see what it looks like in contrast to the model. If its a little faint, add more black. I find it best to start subtle, then fine-tune it for a shadow effect.
Hope this helps.