Varnishing worries.

Foxy

So after much deliberation I've decided to try tamiya x22 and Tamiya xf86.. This should give me a gloss and a flat.. Correct?.. I'm going to take a punt and mix them with Mr colour levelling thinner... 

My next concern is cleaning my airbrush after... Would my vellejo air brush cleaner be sufficient or does clear require something a little different as I'm assuming clears can dry harder in the brush if left? 

Once again thanks in advance

 

You can clean it with lacquer thinner, soap and water, alcohol but I can't answer Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner because I don't own it. I've used any of those I mentioned on the clear and acrylic colors. Lacquer thinner is a sure bet in the end. I kind of like to follow up with 91% ipa but thats just me.

I don't use the flat, I have other products I use, but it should be fine. I certainly would try it if I had no flat.

So after much deliberation I've decided to try tamiya x22 and Tamiya xf86.. This should give me a gloss and a flat.. Correct?.. I'm going to take a punt and mix them with Mr colour levelling thinner... 

My next concern is cleaning my airbrush after... Would my vellejo air brush cleaner be sufficient or does clear require something a little different as I'm assuming clears can dry harder in the brush if left? 

Once again thanks in advance

Awesome. Thank you (both).

I'm really looking forward to trying this.

Greg

Does X-22 play nice with Mr Levelling thinner?

Here I thought I'd tried every acrylic clear on the market, I can't believe I've overlooked this. If this stuff sprays as well as Tamiya's colors, that'd be something.

I presume it is fairly glossy then?

 

I've used several different thinners in X-22, I would think Mr Leveling thinner would be amost ideal and a hard durable shiny finish when dry.. I use hardware store lacquer thinner most, then add a little retarder in some weather conditions ( pretty much what Mr Leveling is). So I haven't bought Mr Leveling thinner.

I can't answer that question through personal experience.. But after reading my replies I have been doing more research on the suggested products and came across a video testing x22 mixed 50/50 with Mr colour levelling thinner... And yes the results were pretty good and very glossy more glossy than it mixed with tamiya thinner

Greg

Does X-22 play nice with Mr Levelling thinner?

Here I thought I'd tried every acrylic clear on the market, I can't believe I've overlooked this. If this stuff sprays as well as Tamiya's colors, that'd be something.

I presume it is fairly glossy then?

 

Does X-22 play nice with Mr Levelling thinner?

Here I thought I'd tried every acrylic clear on the market, I can't believe I've overlooked this. If this stuff sprays as well as Tamiya's colors, that'd be something.

I presume it is fairly glossy then?

Greg

 

 

oldermodelguy

Tamiya X-22a .

 

 

Excellent suggestion.

 

Ya well I already mentioned lacquers and you wrote a nice bit on them so I figured I'd put this up. Couple of different ways to go about it besides straight up with X 20 thinner too for different looks. Just another option is all, pretty user friendly, low odor.

oldermodelguy

Tamiya X-22a .

Excellent suggestion.

Foxy

 

Could yourself or anyone else provide a few clear coat makes that they have experienced using over vellejo paints with no issues.?

Thank you in advance

 

 Tamiya X-22a .

Foxy

So am I right in assuming that vellejo varnishes are brushable without leaving brush marks?

That has been the case for me. But I've never hand brushed any really large surfaces with it.

Foxy

I suppose the main reason I went with vellejo varnishes was I was trying to keep everything to the same brand on assumption that there wouldn't be any adverse reaction between the different mediums if they were all from vellejo...

I think that is pretty good thinking. Starting this hobby is complicated enough, save the Mr Wizard trials for later, I say.

Foxy

Can yourself or anyone else that provide a few clear coat makes that they have experienced using over vellejo paints with no issues.?

My favorite clear coat over Vallejo are the Alclad real lacquer ones. I like them for the hard, durable finish and they have a full range of finishes from dead flat to very glossy. Alclad also makes a water-based clear coat. I'm not very good at airbrushing it though.

I don't feel I've found the pefect clear coat solution yet, so hopefully other folk will chime in.

In general, I don't remember a clear that wasn't compatible over Vallejo, any issues were my airbrushing skills.

Oh, and the Testors rattle can clears (Testors Dull coat, for example) are fine too.

That helps a lot thank you... So am I right in assuming that vellejo varnishes are brushable without leaving brush marks? 

I suppose the main reason I went with vellejo varnishes was I was trying to keep everything to the same brand on assumption that there wouldn't be any adverse reaction between the different mediums if they were all from vellejo... 

Could yourself or anyone else provide a few clear coat makes that they have experienced using over vellejo paints with no issues.?

Thank you in advance

As OMG said, it's a good question. For sure.

I use a lot of Vallejo so I thought I'd chime in.

I regularly clear coat for reasons 1-4 OMG mentioned. And with Vallejo, I tend to clear coat for reason #5. As much as I like Vallejo for the colors, finish, and detail retention, I don't personally feel it dries to a very durable finish so I like to clear coat to protect it, under most circumstances.

I'm not a big fan of Vallejo varnishes except for hand brushing, which I think they work great (and maybe what they were designed for). For airbrushing, I prefer other products but maybe I just never quite figured out how to airbrush the Vallejo varnishes, which is likely.

But if parts aren't going to be handled, for example engine parts on motorcyles that most fingers won't reach anyway, and you like finish the Vallejo provided, I think you are fine not clear coating. As an example, I only clear coat 1/48th aircraft cockpits if there is a reason becuase fingers won't fit in there.

Hope this isn't too long, and helps a little.

Foxy

Thank you for your reply... My paints are vellejo acrylics... So from what you've said it would definitely be beneficial to me to varnish at least the body work to give it some protection... 

Also all paints are matt and some parts did require a gloss look so maybe I need to varnish those parts too.. what I have also taken away is that it's not necessary for me to varnish all parts.. So thank you again..

And apologies if the question seemed a tad obvious... First model worries and all that :) 

 

Questions are good.

At this point though if you want to continue with Vallejo clears I'll have to let someone else go from here. While I use their colors I don't use their clears but more Tamiya acrylic or other brand lacquers.

Thank you for your reply... My paints are vellejo acrylics... So from what you've said it would definitely be beneficial to me to varnish at least the body work to give it some protection... 

Also all paints are matt and some parts did require a gloss look so maybe I need to varnish those parts too.. what I have also taken away is that it's not necessary for me to varnish all parts.. So thank you again..

And apologies if the question seemed a tad obvious... First model worries and all that :) 

Think about your reasons for varnishing in the first place. There can be a few.

1 to make a glossy finish over flat paint.

2 to make a flat finish over glossy paint

3 like the others only a simigloss or satin finish

4 part of a system of paints ( base coat clear coat for instance)

5 a protective coat or hard shell over soft paints, often acrylics like craft paints are more chip resistant when clear coated

So what are looking to do to the motor cycle with varnish ? You don't just varnish because you heard about someone varnishing, think your way through. Engine parts you might want satin, fenders high gloss etc. What is your base paint ( brand and particular iteration or series of paint in their line). And so on.