Iawata Sputtering + sanding putty

Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Iawata Sputtering + sanding putty

Posted by Anonymous on Monday, April 12, 2004 1:34 AM

I recently bought an Iawata hp-cs, and have a compressor.
While airbrushing my model with primer, I noticed small and medium sized droplets of primer appearing on my model, obviously sputter marks. No matter what psi I used, (15-50) I couldn't get my airbrush to stop sputtering. Never before had I touched the needle, and I had thinned the primer (1part paint-1part primer, 2-1) Did I get a defective airbrush, or am I doing something wrong? (btw, the primer was model master's acry, and I thinned it using tamiya's acryl thinner, another btw, can I used water to thin out tamiya acryls in the airbrush cup?)

Also, I noticed when sanding the putty to fill large areas(parts of the wing of an jet weren't level, so I used some putty to sand and level them) I can notice observe little bubbles and sanding marks in the putty...I didn't use any acetone based nail polish to coat the putty...will the polish make the putty look smooth and not end up looking scratched and bubbly(little holes in putty)?

~Your input would greatly be appreciated!~
-=D00/\/\ G|vER=-

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MusicCity

Member since
January 2004
From: USA

Posted by MusicCity on Monday, April 12, 2004 5:29 AM

QUOTE: I recently bought an Iawata hp-cs, and have a compressor.
While airbrushing my model with primer, I noticed small and medium sized droplets of primer appearing on my model, obviously sputter marks. No matter what psi I used, (15-50) I couldn't get my airbrush to stop sputtering. Never before had I touched the needle, and I had thinned the primer (1part paint-1part primer, 2-1) Did I get a defective airbrush, or am I doing something wrong?

I'm not famiilar with Iwata brushes so I'll leave that for someone who is. A couple of generic things to check are 1) Do you have a moisture trap? The droplets could be water if you don't; 2) It could have been caused by dried paint at the tip. Acrylics dry so quickly getting dried paint on the tip is always a problem. I usually keep a Q-tip dipped in thinner around to clean mine.

QUOTE: (btw, the primer was model master's acry, and I thinned it using tamiya's acryl thinner, another btw, can I used water to thin out tamiya acryls in the airbrush cup?)

You can probably use water to thin Tamiya acrylics, but 91% isopropyl alcohol, half 91% isopropyl alky and half water, or Tamiya thinner would probably work better.

QUOTE: Also, I noticed when sanding the putty to fill large areas(parts of the wing of an jet weren't level, so I used some putty to sand and level them) I can notice observe little bubbles and sanding marks in the putty...I didn't use any acetone based nail polish to coat the putty...will the polish make the putty look smooth and not end up looking scratched and bubbly(little holes in putty)?

What kind of putty was it? Some putties will have that coarse look near the surface but as you sand them down they will smooth out. The sanding marks are, obviously, from your sand paper. Could be that the putty isn't thoroughly dry or that your sandpaper is just too coarse. Let it dry thoroughly before sanding and use progressively finer grades of sandpaper.

Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Monday, April 12, 2004 9:47 AM

Be sure that the brush is tightly assembled. Air leaking in through the seals could cause this if it's not the result of Moisture. If everything's tight and you have a moisture trap, this should never happen. My HP-CS is flawless if taken care of.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Monday, April 12, 2004 1:02 PM

QUOTE: can I used water to thin out tamiya acryls in the airbrush cup?)

I tried it once and it gave an orange peel look on my tiger! Angry [:(!]

It dried hidiously flat though, but I will never do it again. Stick with iso or the house brand.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Monday, April 12, 2004 1:13 PM

1. is it assembled correctly

2. did you get a moisture trap

3. tip dry?

4. needle dry?

remidy: remove needle, polish till it shines, then try using it. should work better

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plasticmod992

Member since
January 2003
From: The Hoosier State

Posted by plasticmod992 on Monday, April 12, 2004 8:22 PM

I use an Iwata HP-CS as well and have ran into the same problem with MM Acryl. My realization was that the Acryl was drying so fast in the airbrush that it spit those dreaded specks on the model. What I did to fix this was to thin the paint more using the recommended Acryl thinner and tried again. This time I had better results but I started to run into other problems using the Acryl. I finally ditched the Acryl and used T/MM enamel primer thinned 1:1 at around 12-15 psi and it laid beautifully! And the paint sprayed effortlessly through my HP-CS. I personally detest the Acryl line..it just dries up so fast it's almost useless for intricate camo and fine-line work, very tricky to thin consistanly from one paint session to the next (and each bottle is different; adding to the difficulty), and lastly the color range is limited. Just my opinion but you might be happier with Tamiya or Gunze. Personally I have yet to find another paint that can perform like T/MM enamels, give them I shot to if you can. Good luck to ya.

Greg Williams Owner/ Manager Modern Hobbies LLC Indianapolis, IN. IPMS #44084

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saltydog

Member since
July 2003
From: Lower Alabama

Posted by saltydog on Monday, April 12, 2004 9:18 PM

tamiya is an excellent acrylic paint. ive never had good luck with acryl or polly scale. i have had the problem of the "dust" painting. ive ruined 2 models because of it. i found out that my reg/trap was faulty so i installed another one just past it and have had good fortune so far. probably attributable to moisture in some form or fashion. later.

Chris

The Origins of Murphy's Law: "In the begginning there was nothing, and it exploded."!!! _________ chris

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, April 13, 2004 4:07 AM

I always spray Humbrol enamel primer through both my Iwata HP-CR and Aztek and have had no troubles with it. After thinning it 1:1 with laquer thinner, it lays down smooth and evenly, and once cured is practically bulletproof

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, April 13, 2004 7:50 AM

QUOTE: Originally posted by plasticmod992

I use an Iwata HP-CS... ...I finally ditched the Acryl and used T/MM enamel primer thinned 1:1 at around 12-15 psi and it laid beautifully! And the paint sprayed effortlessly through my HP-CS.

I didn't start with acrylics, but I've tried them. Nothing I've tried works as well as MM in my HP-CS, except maybe humbrol. I also generally thin 1:1.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, April 15, 2004 1:36 AM

Thanks guys....i'll hafta chek the moisture trap on my compressor and make sure its on tightly...yeah, i noticed that while painting, a huge accumulation of wet primer was forming on the cup surrounding the needle(needle protector thingy). Is this normal?
honestly folks, do gundams need priming?
and one burning question...can I use the enamel wash technique on a model painted with acrylics, and finished wit a clear coat?(and then after enam wash, do I clear coat acryl again, or clear coat enam?)

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, April 15, 2004 8:16 PM

YES gundams need priming. they are molded in color, and to airbrush properly, get rid of the color by priming. also, priming lets you check hte errors you made.

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