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I decicided to try Mr Color paints (The lacquer solvent based, not the water/alcohol Mr Hobby Aqueous), so to try it out, I bought their cool little early and late RAF colors sets, along with a bottle of their Leveling Thinnner.
I just airbrushed the Sea Gray on the bottom of a Spitfire. So far so good. I thinned it about 1:2 paint to thinner and sprayed right on the bare plastic at 12psi with a Badger 150 double action.
Do any of you guys use the Mr Color Lacquers? How are you using it? Any caveats ot tricks that you've found?
What kind of cure time to these have? How long should I wait before masking, or clear coating, or painting other types of paints over them?
Any known issues with decal solvents (Solvaset, Mr Mark Softer, Tamiya Markfit, etc?
I use Mr Color quite a bit and find it one of the most durable paints out there. It bonds very well, although I use primer to avoid lifting. I have masked it and never had it lift. I usually wait 24 hrs just to be safe before masking it. It does dry pretty fast though, usually within just few minutes. You can handle it shortly after spraying provided your humidity isn't too high. The only issue I ever have with it is you have to thin it until it sprays smoothly or it will spit and splatter. It is not at all friendly to hand painting. The Leveling thinnner also works with Tamiya paints and really makes them lay down super nice. Don't use the Leveling thinner with AK or Vallejo, they don't like each other. As far as decals I've never had any issues with the solutions interacting with the paint. It really is super durable.
BK
On the bench:
A lot !! And I mean A LOT!!
2024 Kits on deck / in process / completed
14 / 5 / 2
Thanks for the info BrandonK
An uppdate: as I said earlier I put the Sea Gray right on the plastic. To remove fingerprints/oils, I had wiped the model with dish soap/water on a microfiber towel, then dried with another towel before painting.
I let the paint dry for about an hour, then masked the demarc line with poster putty rolled into a worm. I also masked the bottom of the horizontal stabilizers with yellow Shurtape (which looks to me like Tamiya tape, but may be different). I then painted the top surfaces with Ocean Gray. It also went on nice and smooth so I think I have the thinner ratio right.
The poster putty came right off with no problems at all. However, the Shurtape on the stabilizers did peel up little flecks of paint. It's not bad and just looks like a little chipping. I'm going to leave it alone and consider it part of the wear/weathering, so no catastrophe this time. However, I'm wondering now, if in the future I should be putting primer down first instead of painting right on the plastic.
I think maybe I should try some Tamiya fine surface primer or maybe even some Mr Surfacer 1000 thinned with the Mr Leveler on the next model.
Use primer, always let the kits dry overnight before taping.
modelmaker66 Use primer, always let the kits dry overnight before taping.
Yeah, I'll definately prime the next one. I have a Tamiya FW-190 in the construction process and it will be the next one in the paint booth. I've got all the Mr. Color RLM colors I need, so we'll see how mottling goes with this paint! Hopefully by then I'll have learned how to do mottling!
As far as the Spitfire, I let the Ocean Gray dry 24 hours then finished up the camo with the green. This time I masked with plain paper masks cut out and attached to the model with poster putty worms. This worked perfectly. The poster putty caused no problems.
How long do you guys think I should wait before I clear gloss it with Future so I can start my weathering and decals?
As a general rule I don't apply any addtional coats of anything until the next day to make fully sure that all the gasses have passed from the paint to avoid any issues there. Some people use Future, some don't. I quit using it early on as I didn't care for the results. I switched to MM clears and Tamiya clears and have never looked back.
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