Are there any compelling reasons to use a single action over a double action airbrush for some jobs?

I have a Paashe H and a couple double action airbrushes, and I haven't used the double actions in a long time. The H does everything I need and is much easier to clean. 

Eaglecash867

I've been using the same Paasche H single action airbrush for decades now and have never really found myself wishing I had a double action until recently.  Got a Paasche double action for Christmas, used it a couple of times, and I'm back to the single action.  For my purposes, I guess I've just had a single action long enough that I know how to manipulate it to get the desired effects that I'm after...but then again, I don't really get all that sophisticated with what I do with it.  With all that being said, I guess the main reason I went back to the single action is ease of cleaning.  Mine is an external mix, siphon feed, so when I'm done with a painting job, I just take the needle, cap, and cup and drop them all into a pickle jar with MEK in it.  Put the jar in my ultrasonic cleaner with a little water to transmit the sound waves, and turn it on for 20 minutes.  Take the parts out of the jar wearing latex gloves, rinse under hot water, and they're totally clean.  That process might sound complicated, but its actually really easy and only takes about 30 seconds of my direct involvement to accomplish.  I've just never been all that enthused about the idea of flushing an airbrush to clean it, so this is what works best for me.  Don't know of any double action airbrushes I could clean so easily without flushing.

 

I always thought my Paasche H and #3 tip shot pretty well. That tip was always loose though and recently I noticed that the chrome out at the tip was tarnished. The looseness seemed like the seal wasn't right so I kind of gravitated to the #1 Tip over the last year. A couple of weeks ago I tried that #3 and it now was hesitating to pick up the fluid every time I pressed the button. So I emailed Paasche on that Sunday. First thing Monday I had a message from Chuck P wanting my address. Friday I had a new complete #3 tip assembly no charge. My H never shot as nice as it does with that new #3 fwiw. It really lays down a nice even coat and I'm very pleased with it. I mostly prime and shoot varnishes with that brush but I really like what I've been seeing with that new tip.

I can see why you haven't needed another airbrush. I bought the H a few years ago to back up my Badger 200. I'd paint a model with either one.

As we can see from the posts so far, it really boils down to personal preference. I use both styles, my preferred airbrush is the Badger 200 though, with .25 tip in particular. But it's not so much that it's single action, I know it's ways having shot it for over 45 years. I like it's beefy nozzle design where the tiny tips are built into the front regulator cap and I don't have to handle the miniscule things like I do in my double action gun. When you change nozzle tips you change the whole cap, something you can actually grab on to and not lose next to a fleck of dust or grain of sand lol... I'd get along fine with a Badger 100 though since it uses the same caps as my 200. My double action brush also has an uncomfortable trigger button compared with my 200 or even my Paasche H.

On my double action it has a stop at the rear to screw in to a pre set paint flow amount. I use that, then you can press and get air only and pull back for increasing paint flow till hitting the stop. That's one feature I do like. It also has a Mac valve for airflow quantity which is ok but neither is a deal breaker away from my 200 to me. It might be for someone else though. I find myself doing about anything when cleaning the double action to avoid pulling off the tip though ( too lazy to deal with the tiny things), it's almost a tweezer operation. I'll run through my cleaning solution or water or whatever and back flush, pull the needle and wipe dry etc. The nozzles on my 200 are big enough to have their size stamped into the cap, works for me ! Plus I feel the spray mist is more refined in the 200 for the same needle size. I actually should think about unloading this double action come to think about it, maybe pick up a Badger 100 along the way if I get curious about double action again. And I would set that up only with a .2 or .25 tip and needle, it's all I'd desire in double action anyway.

I always seem to be the odd duck. I prefer the double, for a few reasons. I like being able to control air/paint mix on the fly. Also, with the needle moving back and forth, it helps to prevent clogging. I find that on a single action I need to thin the paint much more, and the brush seems so much more fickle. The double action I use operates like a champ. Just my opinion of course.

Well, since you asked, no. I have an old style 200 and a 200NH. I bought the NH 16 or 17 years ago for my kids to use. Thinking it may be easier for them to learn with. They wanted no part of it either. Meaning no part of that or my 360. The old style 200 was in the box of an open box 175 Crescendo I bought at Michael's years ago. Don't know how it got there but the sales person said it's in the box, it's yours. They have laid in the bottom of a drawer ever since. I do use preset handles on double actions sometimes but air and paint are still separate. That's the deal breaker for me.

I've been using the same Paasche H single action airbrush for decades now and have never really found myself wishing I had a double action until recently.  Got a Paasche double action for Christmas, used it a couple of times, and I'm back to the single action.  For my purposes, I guess I've just had a single action long enough that I know how to manipulate it to get the desired effects that I'm after...but then again, I don't really get all that sophisticated with what I do with it.  With all that being said, I guess the main reason I went back to the single action is ease of cleaning.  Mine is an external mix, siphon feed, so when I'm done with a painting job, I just take the needle, cap, and cup and drop them all into a pickle jar with MEK in it.  Put the jar in my ultrasonic cleaner with a little water to transmit the sound waves, and turn it on for 20 minutes.  Take the parts out of the jar wearing latex gloves, rinse under hot water, and they're totally clean.  That process might sound complicated, but its actually really easy and only takes about 30 seconds of my direct involvement to accomplish.  I've just never been all that enthused about the idea of flushing an airbrush to clean it, so this is what works best for me.  Don't know of any double action airbrushes I could clean so easily without flushing.

Yes, if I want a large area of uniform color and thickness, I find it easier to dial in the flow I want and relax.  I find it easier to clean the SA brush too.  If I need to shade, I have a DA brush that I save just for that kind of job.