I thought this was interesting - Tamiya lacquer thinner

I use hardware store LT or straight 91 ipa with Tamiya acrylic. Tamiya now has a LT with retarder in it,might do better than what you got. Mr Leveling Thinner works good. Pebbly is usually it went on too dry or otherwise is drying too fast, doesn't get to level out......

Is that supposed to be gloss paint or what was it ? I bet it comes out way smoother with alcohol at any rate. I only use LT in gloss Tamiya (X colors and clears).

oldermodelguy

I use hardware store LT or straight 91 ipa with Tamiya acrylic. Tamiya now has a LT with retarder in it,might do better than what you got. Mr Leveling Thinner works good. Pebbly is usually it went on too dry or otherwise is drying too fast, doesn't get to level out......

Is that supposed to be gloss paint or what was it ? I bet it comes out way smoother with alcohol at any rate. I only use LT in gloss Tamiya (X colors and clears).

 

Mrchntmarine

 

 

oldermodelguy

I use hardware store LT or straight 91 ipa with Tamiya acrylic. Tamiya now has a LT with retarder in it,might do better than what you got. Mr Leveling Thinner works good. Pebbly is usually it went on too dry or otherwise is drying too fast, doesn't get to level out......

Is that supposed to be gloss paint or what was it ? I bet it comes out way smoother with alcohol at any rate. I only use LT in gloss Tamiya (X colors and clears).

 

 

 

 

. Its the Tamiya X-1 Black.  Thats whats surprising to me - the shiny part where i hit too much vs the rest....

 

 

X-1 shot with LT should shoot beautiful, high gloss very smooth but a really black black. Just sayin. I don't know  what happened to yours.

so admittedly, my lighting is terrible where i paint.   More Patriot 105 Voodoo. 

A guess here, maybe i didnt spary it on heavy enough?  The non shiney part is similar too to the hull on the DR Lykes im painting - same paint but that time i used the home brew mix.  Since on the stack the shiney part is likely the way its suppose to look i can only guess i didnt spray thick enough.  Maybe the other part dried too quickly?

Mrchntmarine

so admittedly, my lighting is terrible where i paint.   More Patriot 105 Voodoo. 

A guess here, maybe i didnt spary it on heavy enough?  The non shiney part is similar too to the hull on the DR Lykes im painting - same paint but that time i used the home brew mix.  Since on the stack the shiney part is likely the way its suppose to look i can only guess i didnt spray thick enough.  Maybe the other part dried too quickly?

 

You need to conduct some test shots on some mule parts or spoons or something. Get a handle on what's going on then apply what you discovered to the model. And for the record in my case this has turned into a hobby of it's own. I do a whole work up, well not fine detailed masking but primer, color , top coats, even sometimes polish. Then I know where I'm headed on the model. I absolutely test any new paint or combo in this way. FWIW. Less surprises, though still some now and then.

Mrchntmarine

 I recently had read an article that one can use it to dilute very thinly so i did  1:1

When using Tamiya lacquer thinner, 1:1 isn't really all that thin. I've gone 4(thinner):1(paint) without any problems.

It looks like you didn't get even coverage across your part. How far from the surface was your airbrush? At 10PSI, I would want to be within about 3-4cm

Thanks Phil.  I had no idea what I was doing. I definitely was not that close. Thank you. I need to start a log book!!    With your proportions I'm guessing you make multiple light coats?  And spray until wet?

Why not use the thinner intended for the Acrylics, X20A? It's what I use and I can easily thin 1 to 1 or more without any issues at all.

Increasing wetness is a matter of paint flow, distance shot and speed of the pass and drying conditions. Air pressure is for good atomization without blowing out the center of the paint hitting the surface. Too low a pressure will spatter. Acrylics generally take a little more pressure than lacquer, you might find 15-18 psi is golden.. Because someone says they shoot their DA airbrush at 8-10 psi doesn't mean it applies to another persons situation, with a different air brush, climate conditions or paint type. We each set things to where they work. I live at sea level, someone else might be at 5000 ft, I'm shooting acrylic, he's shooting lacquer and now we are into two completely different situations without even mentioning airbrush brand or type, dry or moist air, temps etc...

That's why I say test. I like to "test" on something worthless rather than in the middle of a $50 build subject. I keep a gallon bag full of prescription bottles I've collected, those are my test subjects. Any new paint or new ideas go on one or two of those before ever seeing my models. Be systematic. If you intend to use Tamiya primer on your model with Tamita X-1 do that to the test subject. I don't spray the color onto the plastic of a bottle if the model will have primer on it. That's not a test it's a waste of time ( imo). And so on.

  Where did the "What he said" smiley go? Lol

The gauge on my old compressor told me I could spray reliably at as low as 6 psi with some paints and airbrushes. Going by the gauge on my new compressor I can't go lower than 12 psi. I don't know but my guess is the new gauge is closer to correct. Once you get that low on pressure an accurate reading is a little more difficult. But I'm now using a 0 - 30 psi gauge and I'll assume it's correct. Long as I get the results I'm after.

Thin that paint! Lol. Don't worry, you can always add a little back if you go too far. If you have a mix you believe should work, adjust your air. That gauge is just a suggestion anyway. And FWIW, I use denatured alcohol with Tamiya flats. I've been told it will reduce the gloss of Tamiya gloss paints but I really don't use them.

Don't worry, it's all part of the learning process. Just experiment and practice. I used to catch a lot of flack for suggesting this but, if you want to learn to control your airbrush then get yourself a pad of water color paper and a small desktop easel and set down and practice. Learn how to pull lines and make dots and shapes and shade. No, it does not take the place of shooting on plastic but it will make you better. Like Lemmy said, it's all about control, and who can take it...

Wingman_kz

  Where did the "What he said" smiley go? Lol

The gauge on my old compressor told me I could spray reliably at as low as 6 psi with some paints and airbrushes. Going by the gauge on my new compressor I can't go lower than 12 psi. 

Good point.  I often wonder how accurate mine is.  1 way i iguess is to get another and test and ive too lazy to mess with it by taking it off.  Been thinking about it but decided maybe to use it as a "guage" instead of the gospel and to go by results..... 

Wingman_kz

 

Thin that paint! Lol. Don't worry, you can always add a little back if you go too far. If you have a mix you believe should work, adjust your air. That gauge is just a suggestion anyway. And FWIW, I use denatured alcohol with Tamiya flats. I've been told it will reduce the gloss of Tamiya gloss paints but I really don't use them. 

Ahhh, denatured alcohol....  I made a post awhile back trying to figure out what i could use the can i have???  Been looking at this can for years - cant even remember why i have it. You can cut tamiya acrlyic w/ it?  What do you clean with afterwards as to not make a goopy mess?

Yep - practice is the key!  Tks much.......  Appreciate the tips and results of your experiences.

Tickmagnet

Why not use the thinner intended for the Acrylics, X20A? It's what I use and I can easily thin 1 to 1 or more without any issues at all.

 

Yep i use that...  And IPA.  I was just trying something i had read to see what would happen.  I had just bought some LT to clean up the badger primer with and thought i would give it a try.

oldermodelguy

Increasing wetness is a matter of paint flow, distance shot and speed of the pass and drying conditions. Air pressure is for good atomization without blowing out the center of the paint hitting the surface. Too low a pressure will spatter. Acrylics generally take a little more pressure than lacquer, you might find 15-18 psi is golden.. Because someone says they shoot their DA airbrush at 8-10 psi doesn't mean it applies to another persons situation, with a different air brush, climate conditions or paint type. We each set things to where they work. I live at sea level, someone else might be at 5000 ft, I'm shooting acrylic, he's shooting lacquer and now we are into two completely different situations without even mentioning airbrush brand or type, dry or moist air, temps etc...

That's why I say test. I like to "test" on something worthless rather than in the middle of a $50 build subject. I keep a gallon bag full of prescription bottles I've collected, those are my test subjects. Any new paint or new ideas go on one or two of those before ever seeing my models. Be systematic. If you intend to use Tamiya primer on your model with Tamita X-1 do that to the test subject. I don't spray the color onto the plastic of a bottle if the model will have primer on it. That's not a test it's a waste of time ( imo). And so on.

 

 

 

Yes - a lot of variables here and you are right - test, test, test......  Thanks again for the insight.  Its interesting to me to try it out and when it works great and when it doesnt - come here to chat and compare.  Thats why i find this site so invaluable.

Tks for the help.  Wm

Mrchntmarine

 

Yes - a lot of variables here and you are right - test, test, test......  Thanks again for the insight.  Its interesting to me to try it out and when it works great and when it doesnt - come here to chat and compare.  Thats why i find this site so invaluable.

 

Tks for the help.  Wm

 

It's a great site, we all learn !!

No, you won't end up with a gooey mess using denatured alcohol. There isn't a lot of difference between it and 91% Iso but it's what I went with. I didn't like X20A because I didn't feel I could thin enough without getting runs and splatter. At the time I was doing a MERDAC camo scheme on a 1/72 tank and I couldn't find the control I needed. I tried the different % alcohol and ended up liking DA the best. You may or may not, but it works for me. I tried lacquer thinner and it works fine but it changes things a little. 

At the risk of boring you to death, here's what I did and why. Very small subject with freehand, 4 color camo. Sprayed a base coat and then shot Testors GlossCote over it. Very thin and fairly mild. Then I started the camo pattern with very thin Tamiya acrylic and using the preset handle on my airbrush and low low psi. Then I could move slowly with control. And you'll find that even being very thin you'll get good coverage with Tamiya. When I finished a color I could then go back and clean up any slips or edges with a brush dampened with Windex and then touch up if needed. Then shoot Testors Glosscote and go on to the next color. If I used lacquer thinner in the color coats, I couldn't do that. I would have to use lacquer thinner to clean up slips and edges and it would cut into the layers below. I could have used LT in the Tamiya and water based clear coats but I don't really like water based acrylics and they generally take too long to dry. Plus, with GlossCote you get very thin layers. So there it is. Lol

With DA or 91% you can almost fill a bottle with alcohol and whisper Tamiya over it and get coverage. Almost. Seriously,  you can go very thin and it will work great. Yes, you have to do more than one coat but hey, that's why we're using airbrushes anyway. If you want it done in one coat, use a can! lololol

If you really want to see Tamiya acrylics lay super flat and never pebble again, thin them with some Gunze Mr Hobby Leveling thinner. It makes a good paint even better. You'll be stunned how well it works.

BK

Mrchntmarine

so admittedly, my lighting is terrible where i paint.   More Patriot 105 Voodoo. 

 

 

Very good lighting is essential to good, consistant painting.  I use a positionable lamp so that I can always see a direct reflection of the light in the piece I am painting.  Good lamps are usually cheaper than airbrushes, and well worth the price.

ok, update.  All this had me a little perplexed so i mixed some black again and used the Tamiya laquer thinner as before.  This time i just put it on a little heavier - i.e., more of it.  Laid good, smooth and shiney.  So im guessing it was just too light of a coat before.  Lack of experience im guessing!  Now i know.  Tks all....

I'm confused.  Are you saying you use lacquer thinner in acrylic paints?  

I am getting back into FSM after 30 years absence and am having a measure of difficulty dealing with the transition to the world of acrylics.  I was very comfortable in the world of enamels and lacquers back in the day but am having a hard time finding the paints and thinners I used back in the day.  

Many thanks...

Deaf Smith

I'm confused.  Are you saying you use lacquer thinner in acrylic paints?  

I am getting back into FSM after 30 years absence and am having a measure of difficulty dealing with the transition to the world of acrylics.  I was very comfortable in the world of enamels and lacquers back in the day but am having a hard time finding the paints and thinners I used back in the day.  

Many thanks...

 

so i too get very confused here and i have a bad habit of not writing down the things i read and try as to remember all the tips.  There are many here that have much more experience. Back in the day i use to use humbrol and maybe testors - both enamels and it was simple, enamel thinner and i think that was it.  Nowadays it seems acrylics are not all the same - some water as thinner ok, others not.  I would have never used LT with acrylic paint but i had read somewhere where a modeller did it.  Aparently, its common as i think in this thread some mentioned doing the same.  Honestly, i get a little lost as to "hot" thinners, laquers, etc. and what can be used ok with what.  Like when someone mentiones varnishes over the finished product...  Confuses me.  I guess i just done know the science of it.  I will someday though.  A little of what i do know - Tamiya acrylic has a little flame on the side so its got some hazardous stuff in it.  I think you can cut it with water safely, Tamiya acrlyic thinner X20A and ive used some rubbing alcohol while airbrusing and to dip my brush a little while brushing.  I guess to laquer thinner too - but dont take my word for it - like i said i read somwhere someone using it to airbrush with.  Vallejo makes their own acrlyic thinner too.  But i know you can thin that with water and AKI acrylics too.  Someting the local hobby shop worker told me - smell the tamiya acrlyic, smells like alcohol while other acrylics dont.  FWIW.  Not sure if all this helps or hurts and hope i didnt muck things up. 

Deaf Smith

I'm confused.  Are you saying you use lacquer thinner in acrylic paints?  

I am getting back into FSM after 30 years absence and am having a measure of difficulty dealing with the transition to the world of acrylics.  I was very comfortable in the world of enamels and lacquers back in the day but am having a hard time finding the paints and thinners I used back in the day.  

Many thanks...

 

Tamiya acrylics spray very nicely with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner.

Tojo72

 

 

Deaf Smith

I'm confused.  Are you saying you use lacquer thinner in acrylic paints?  

I am getting back into FSM after 30 years absence and am having a measure of difficulty dealing with the transition to the world of acrylics.  I was very comfortable in the world of enamels and lacquers back in the day but am having a hard time finding the paints and thinners I used back in the day.  

Many thanks...

 

 

 

 

Tamiya acrylics spray very nicely with Tamiya Lacquer Thinner.

 

Thats the only manner in which I thin Tamiya Acrylic Paints. I use cheap automotive thinners for cleanning my AB. I have yet to encounter issues.

For you guys confused over Tamiya acrylic using lacquer thinner or iso/alcohol etc.. Maybe it will help you to understand that Tamiya acrylic is actually a hybrid acrylic lacquer. It can be cleaned up to a good extent with water or completely with lacquer thinner, it can be sprayed cut with lacquer thinner or X-20A thinner. X-20A is an alcohol based thinner for acrylics, lacquer thinner is lacquer thinner. But most lacquer thinners also have some degree of alcohol in them.

Incidentally, using lacquer thinner in Tamiya acrylic paint isn't just an experiment that worked out and caught on among modelers. It's an option put out there by Tamiya themselves. If you go to their website you will find this endorsed/suggested.

Just a quick second to BrandonK's post; having tried all of the above, Mr. Leveling Thinner is a game changer. For me, it works better and yields more consistent results in a wide range of temperature and humidity.

oldermodelguy

 If you go to their website you will find this endorsed/suggested.

 

Dont expect to be buying much from them direct - out of the 1st 2 pages, 58 out of 80 items were sold out!

Mrchntmarine

 

Dont expect to be buying much from them direct - out of the 1st 2 pages, 58 out of 80 items were sold out!

Ooops. Well I'll shoot most anything personally but I wonder if that will trickle down to the dealers. They had a little shortage last year too. I do like the Tamiya X series.

68GT

I'll use their lacquer thinner with their acrylic but will go 1 part paint to 2 or 3 parts thinner. I'll even use the Tamiya lacquer thinner with Model Master acrylics also. The finish comes out pretty tough also. I'll give it a dusting and then follow up with thin wetter coats.

 

That's one test with acrylic I have not conducted yet, is lacquer thinner in MM Acryl as a thinner. I know it mixed fine because I've done that to clean up. Fine as in no separation or glop. But I have not tested ratios or shot it through an airbrush. Interesting you brought this up.

Why do you thin Tamiya that much, for what purpose or use do you use that for? Especially 3 parts thinner sounds like you're headed towards making a wash.

oldermodelguy

 

 

68GT

I'll use their lacquer thinner with their acrylic but will go 1 part paint to 2 or 3 parts thinner. I'll even use the Tamiya lacquer thinner with Model Master acrylics also. The finish comes out pretty tough also. I'll give it a dusting and then follow up with thin wetter coats.

 

 

That's one test with acrylic I have not conducted yet, is lacquer thinner in MM Acryl as a thinner.

 

I think he was talking about MM acrylic paint and not the MM Acryl clear coats.....  I've used those clear coats and Ive thinned them with water , just a tad.