Vallejo primer damage

I fear you may be right.  It's probably because I haven't sacrificed any parts to the Carpet Monster lately.  Still, if anyone has any bright ideas, I'd like to hear from them.

If there is any chance of feather sanding this stuff it will be after 24 hour dry time with fine paper... But basically it's a non sanding primer surfacer.

You can clean up the affecred area with rubbung alcohol and a q tip. It will strip only what you want on the plastic. and repair and re prime. This is excellent primer. It needs a couple days to cure before sanding then it is fine. I hit my work with a hair dryer when I use it and it is is great in a day. Hard as nails. All polyurthane primers including stynlrez are the same. I love it, just dry it down with a hair dryer, or let it set for a couple days or remove the area with rubbing alcohol. Let us know what you do and how it works for you please.

modelmaker66

You can clean up the affecred area with rubung alcohol and a q tip..... It needs a couple days to cure before sanding then

.... All polyurthane primers including stynlrez are the same. ...

 

Modelmaker66.... Not Quite StyNylRes, behaves like a primer should, Prep surface, & it will spray well, self-level, stick, sand, feather & stay where it's put.

Vallejo POLYEURETHANE primers... not so much! With the Exception of the GERMAN RAL colours, (used only as top coat) I've binned my VJ primer as not worth the effort.

VJ CAN be sanded, if 'hardened' a little with 10% of Future, & left for at least 3-4 days, but it is very picky with surface prep, or it peels off in sheets.

Clean up your seams with IPA/Rubbing alcohol, then fill & prime with StyNylRes, a notably better product.

Jon_a_its

 

 

modelmaker66

You can clean up the affecred area with rubung alcohol and a q tip..... It needs a couple days to cure before sanding then

.... All polyurthane primers including stynlrez are the same. ...

 

 

 

Modelmaker66.... Not Quite StyNylRes, behaves like a primer should, Prep surface, & it will spray well, self-level, stick, sand, feather & stay where it's put.

Vallejo POLYEURETHANE primers... not so much! With the Exception of the GERMAN RAL colours, (used only as top coat) I've binned my VJ primer as not worth the effort.

VJ CAN be sanded, if 'hardened' a little with 10% of Future, & left for at least 3-4 days, but it is very picky with surface prep, or it peels off in sheets.

Clean up your seams with IPA/Rubbing alcohol, then fill & prime with StyNylRes, a notably better product.

Hmm, I've had times where cleaning up with alcohol before spraying Stynylrez has caused a fish eye effect in the primer. If it hasn't happened to you yet, start looking a bit closer, I'm not the only one who has observed this.. I changed to odorless mineral spirits instead for the final wipe down of model parts. I agree Styn is superior to Vallejo primer in that it dries hard much faster and sands decent. But I think MM66 has a point about force drying Vallejo with heat. That probably does quicken and improve the bond. I trust his take and  I have no Vallejo in stock anyway. I switched to Stynylrez as my main primer maybe 3 years ago now.

modelmaker66

You can clean up the affecred area with rubbung alcohol and a q tip.

I'll give it a try, thanks for the tip.

modelmaker66

It needs a couple days to cure before sanding then it is fine. I hit my work with a hair dryer when I use it

I primed on Friday morning, painted on Saturday afternoon, the model was in a warm, dry room, easlily enough time (I thought!) to dry.  Perhaps not...

OMG, Jon_a_it, I also appreciate your advice.  I'm going to try the IPA & see what happens - isn't this exciting?  I'll post my results here.

Thanks again, everyone.

Hutch6390

 

 

modelmaker66

You can clean up the affecred area with rubbung alcohol and a q tip.

 

 

I'll give it a try, thanks for the tip.

 

 

modelmaker66

It needs a couple days to cure before sanding then it is fine. I hit my work with a hair dryer when I use it

 

 

I primed on Friday morning, painted on Saturday afternoon, the model was in a warm, dry room, easlily enough time (I thought!) to dry.  Perhaps not...

OMG, Jon_a_it, I also appreciate your advice.  I'm going to try the IPA & see what happens - isn't this exciting?  I'll post my results here.

Thanks again, everyone.

 

 

Just to be clear, where I mentioned I stopped with ipa was for final wipe down of bare pastic parts before priming Stynylez. Just so there is no confusion.

Bearing in mind the advice kindly given about the length of time needed for this stuff to cure, I came up with a plan.  I let the model sit drying until today, then very carefully cleaned off all the "loose" bits of primer & paint in the damaged area, leaving the hole in the primer & the bare plastic underneath.  I used Perfect Plastic Putty (in tiny amounts) smoothed with a wet cotton bud to fix the seam & scratches.  When that dried I used micromesh to smooth it & to feather the edges of the hole in the primer.  Then, to seal those edges, I sprayed a very light layer of the (same!) primer & filled the "hole" with more, applied with a small brush.

I'm going to leave it for 3 or 4 days (to dry!) & cut it back to where I want it, again using micromesh, then repaint.  I'm pretty sure it'll work - what a flippin' saga!

Thank you again for the benefit of your knowledge, much appreciated!