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I have a small round spot where the top layer of paint lifted off an airplane wing - the primer stayed put. I've put a couple of coats of paint back over it but the ridge line where the paint lifted is still visible. FWIW, the primer is mr surfacer (well-cured - it sat for about 3 weeks), and the paint is tamiya. I'm thinking I'll need to sand the ridge line to get rid of it. Does that sound right? What should I sand it with? And how long should I let the top layers of paint dry before I try that.
thanks,
Phil
Hmmm:
Normally you can wet sand this out. If it's in a difficult place,it's going to be harder. It also depends how small the spot is. If you can sand around it and NOT remove the primer under.
What I do, If the paint is not to thick, is this. I get the finest sand paper that will smooth it out and then very carefully wet sand it in a large oval or circular movement till the edges start to disappear. Do NOT sand the center of the hole. Only carefully around the edges!
Here is where micro mesh pads work really well.
Bill
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
GMorrison Here is where micro mesh pads work really well. Bill
Or the Micro Mesh sticks.
Oh...and to answer your question about curing time for the top layers of paint. 24-48 hours with Tamiya acrylics is usually safe.
"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."
You didn't mention how you thinned it but using the Tamiya X-20 Laquer Thinner helps it bite into the primer better than the X-20A thinner.
This doesn't help right now I realize but keep this in mind for future builds.
[URL=http://picasion.com/]
Thanks everyone.
I will let it dry 24 hours. The paint was Tamiya thinned with Mr Levelling Thinner. It lifted because I dropped some thinner on it and tried to dab it with a tissue. I should have just left it to dry.....
Anyway, I have a set of micro mesh pads. What grit should I use? Then wet or dry?
Start with a "coarser" grit - say, 3200 or 4000, then go over it again with 6000, and finish off with 12000, which should give a surface about as smooth as glass. Use wet, work very gently, wipe off the slurry.
Vell, Zaphod's just zis guy, you know?
TakkaTakkaTakkaTakkaTakkaTakka
If you can manage it, and the condition of your model still allows for it, wet sanding under running water would be ideal.
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