"Help"First try at airbrushing.

Painting cardboard, especially with waterbased paints is not the same as painting styrene.  Folks hereabouts use plastic spoons for tests and practice.  They are pretty cheap and paint just like plastic.

Yes, a solid color is a good starting point. Masking for camouflage is a seperate art.

If the kit is all styrene I use Tamiya primers.  If it includes PE or other metal or resin parts I use auto body primer.

Hi, RC - First, if it's been sitting for ten years it might well be pretty contaminated, by dust and such in the air. A good cleaning with alcohol and clean tissue would be a good prep.

Tamiya acrylics are user friendly, their X-20A or lacquer thinner work well, I also use 71% alcohol for thinning it with good results. I find it works well when thinned heavily, I start at a 50/50 paint to thinner ratio, often spraying at up to about 70 % thinner.

Testing the results before painting the subject will let you know what thinner ratio and air pressure is best. The key to all of this is lots of practice.

Shiny, non porous surfaces work better for checking spray results as you are testing, cardboard soaks the spray up a bit too fast.

The make and model of your airbrush would be good for us to know, but if you practice enough on a test surface, your results will let you know if you should do a solid color, or camo.

I use Stynylrez primer when I do prime, but I don't always find it required. A good base coat of Tamiya acrylic works well for me, but as said, a good clean surface is the first order.

Other members have good results using hardware store primers, hopefully someone familiar with them will stop by to comment.

Good luck with your project, my recommendation would be to first do lots of practice. It's an easy process when fully familiar with the details, but it does take some time and patience to learn the required steps. It sure did for me.

Please check in and let us know how you make out, or have any other questions.

Patrick 

I will be using a Paasche Talon gravity feed airbrush which came with 3 different heads.

Not the best airbrush be something to start with.

I will definitely do some practicing before any attempts to spray the model.

rcguy

I will be using a Paasche Talon gravity feed airbrush which came with 3 different heads.

Not the best airbrush be something to start with.

I will definitely do some practicing before any attempts to spray the model.

 

There isn't anything wrong with a TG airbrush at all. Good company, very solid airbrush, good model.

I have nothing to add to what has been said otherwise.

I've never used one but the Talon should be a good airbrush. I'd probably start with the #2 head and needle. I think it's .38mm and the #1 is .25mm. You could switch to the #1 once you get used to it. If needed.

Spoons are good but kinda small. Cheap plastic For Sale signs are usually only printed on one side. That gives you more room for practice. 

Hardware store spray can primers will work but some of them are kinda harsh and may craze plastic if you get too heavy with them. Tamiya rattle can would be good. Or Gunze Mr Surfacer through the airbrush. I'm undecided on Stynylrez. It's pretty much foolproof. Until it unexpectedly lifts when you mask over it. But that could just be me. 

If you stick with X20A or isopropyl alcohol to thin your Tamiya paints it will be easy to remove with Windex if you need a do over. Once you switch to thinning with lacquer thinner it isn't that simple. But it will work and spray great.

Wingman_kz

 I'm undecided on Stynylrez. It's pretty much foolproof. Until it unexpectedly lifts when you mask over it. But that could just be me. 

Hmmm. That I have not had happen yet............. I will say it's not the same primer if you don't get the gunk off the bottom and you can't tell there is gunk on the bottom till you shove a stick or something in there. But ya, that would be disheartening. I use a Badger mixer on the stuff periodically.

Never thought about plastic for sale signs.

Think you can pick the up for a buck at the dollar store.

If primer is not absolutely necessary as per one of the comments above should a person use some type of base coat.

I seem to remember reading that Tamiya Buff make a good base under final coat.

Do yourself a favor and prime, even your test subjects. Even just one moderately thin coat can save your day sometimes. I've come to where it's just automatic to prime everything. Whatever you intend to do to the model test that idea first on your test spoons or signs or whatever you use as test subjects. I usually do the whole workup on old prescription bottles before painting the model. I have a gallon bag of them and more waiting to go in it.

Watch some youtube videos so you can see what is being done. It is extremely helpful and I use strictly tamiya acrylics, I thin with Tamiya's X20A thinner and use Badger stynylrez for my primer.

Unfortunately I can't get the Badger primer at my local hobby shops.

Another dumb question what color primer should a person use?

rcguy

Unfortunately I can't get the Badger primer at my local hobby shops.

Another dumb question what color primer should a person use?

 

Depends on the color you will be using over it.  For light colors, use a light color primer.  For darker colors the color of the primer is less important.

oldermodelguy

 

 

rcguy

I will be using a Paasche Talon gravity feed airbrush which came with 3 different heads.

Not the best airbrush be something to start with.

I will definitely do some practicing before any attempts to spray the model.

 

 

 

 

There isn't anything wrong with a TG airbrush at all. Good company, very solid airbrush, good model.

I have nothing to add to what has been said otherwise.

 

If you have not already, go check out "Don's Airbrush Tips" website, you'll find a wealth of general knowledge about using, cleaning and maintaining them. There is info specific to your Talon, it will give you a great introduction to it's use.

The issue of paint "lifting" when pulling masks or tape, I suspect is perhaps more related to surface preparation than the paint itself. But several modelers do feel that some are more prone to lifting than others. For my use, Stynylrez and Tamiya pose no issues with that problem.

Patrick

Lots of great advice.

Be easy on yourself. Getting proficient with the AB takes practice. Don't get frustrated if it has some bumps in the road.

Allow drying time. A spray can primer should be given at least a few days to dry. I'm comfortable with a week. It's a good reason to have a couple of models going at once.

Bill

Yup,already thinking of the next build.

Picked up a nice Tamiya sd.kfz 251/1 Ausf. D halftrack I'd like to get started on soon while I'm sorting out the airbrushing.

Have you shot any paint through your airbrush yet ?

Unfortunately not yet but soon.

You remember the joke about the guy trying to find his way to Carnegie Hall?

He sees this guy carrying an instrument case, and asks him, "Hey, how do I get to Carnegie Hall?"

The guy says, "Practice- Practice- Practice!"

That is a good phrase for airbrushing, too!

I agree Don.

I remember when I got back in to flying RC planes after a 20 year absence and had no one to teach me to how to fly again I would go to the flying field everyday sometimes twice on a Saturdays till I got my flying skills back.

rcguy

I agree Don.

I remember when I got back in to flying RC planes after a 20 year absence and had no one to teach me to how to fly again I would go to the flying field everyday sometimes twice on a Saturdays till I got my flying skills back.

 

Now everyone around here is going electric power even in large scale. They even use head sets, like a visor from Startreck, a camera in the plane . As a spectator you see the plane go off and disappear out over the trees, the guy with the visor still flying, after what seems forever the plane returns. I have absolutely no interest, when I left off I was flying 1/4 scale and larger Supercubs with 4 stroke engines. The sputter of the 4 stroke was half the fun, touch and go with flaps, side slipping,keeping it in close etc. Now they go whining off into never never land. Not interested. Everything is changing so fast in these times we are in.

So when you gonna squirt some paint with that airbrush ?

All of my planes are larger 4 stroke powered can't beat the sound of a good running four stroke motor not to mention its more to scale.

I'm going try shooting some paint on the weekend just too tied up with work during the week.

rcguy

Never thought about plastic for sale signs.

Think you can pick the up for a buck at the dollar store. 

They're a good source of styrene sheet, too, if you don't have any Evergreen or Plastruct on hand.  But be sure the sign is plastic, and not glossy card stock.

So an update finally.

I sprayed tamiya fine surface primer (rattle can) on the tank last night to get ready to try my first airbrushing session this werkiend

But I have to say that Tamiya primer is something I will not be able to use again

I sprayed it in my basement work area with my mini spray booth and exhaust out an open window and it still stunk up my whole house right up to the second floor.

I'm going to need to fined an alternative primer as the wife is sensitive to the strong smell and I have to say it was very overpowering.

On a side note I'm in northern Canada and we are into winter cold temperatures so spraying outside or in the garage is not and option.

Any suggestion for an alternative primer?

Badger primer is good for airbrushing,comes in different colors too.levels nicely and sands no problem.Just don't let it dry in your airbrush.

its cold here too,but not Canada cold for sure,but unless it's snowing,gale force winds, or raining,I will step out on my walkout for a few minutes just to spray the Tamiya.

rcguy

Unfortunately I can't get the Badger primer at my local hobby shops.

Another dumb question what color primer should a person use?

 

Duplicolor from the local auto store

Krylon, Painters Choice, or Painters Touch from the local hardware store (Ace, Lowe's, Home Despot).  

Color choice is yours.  I would go with a white or light gray.   I aslo use red primer on my ship kits.  

The trick is multiple LIGHT coats sprayed from a foot or more away.  That will help minimize  possible surface crazing from the aerosol.   

Any of the rattle can primers are usually going to have an odor problem.

This time of year about the only suggestion I can give is to prep everything in a warm area, and duck outside just long enough to spray it and let it sit for a few minutes and bring back in.

goldhammer

Any of the rattle can primers are usually going to have an odor problem.

This time of year about the only suggestion I can give is to prep everything in a warm area, and duck outside just long enough to spray it and let it sit for a few minutes and bring back in.

 

 

No sure how well that would work as our temps outside at least right know are in the minus -10 C (14F) range.

It would need to be sprayed pretty quick thats for sure.

You could always decant whatever rattle can primer you choose into a 4 ounce mason jar, which you can then use in your airbrush.  That will significantly reduce the smell problem.  I bought a case of 12 4 ounce mason jars with lids from Amazon and took one of the lids and drilled a hole in it for a 1/4" ID rubber grommet.  I use that lid when I decant rattle cans.  After that, its just a matter of attaching a party straw to the nozzle with epoxy, letting the epoxy cure overnight, and then putting the nozzle/straw assembly back on the can to decant into one of the jars through the lid with the grommet.  Decanting that way also keeps the vapor/odor release to a minimum during the process.  I can go into more detail on that if you decide its worth a try.

You're not going to beat Stynlyrez primer if you don't want stink but still stick as if it does stink. But if it's that cold up there you might have trouble with it freezing when ordering online. If it freezes in the back of a delivery truck or sitting out on your steps it's all done. Other than that I'd say order some up, it's a basic no brainer to use. You do need to clean your airbrush immediately when done spraying though.

That far up north maybe the back of your delivery trucks are heated though.