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Clear Red - Problem/Question

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  • Member since
    November 2020
Clear Red - Problem/Question
Posted by two-qts-low on Sunday, December 6, 2020 10:41 AM

My problem involves removal of Clear Red paint from a surface.

I built the "10th Anniversary" version of the Aoshima Daihatsu Copen.  Applied Tamiya Fine Surface Primer followed by TS45 Pearl White and TS13 Clear.  All from rattle cans.

Only then did I realize I'd not painted the high-mount brake light on the boot of the car.  Almost all of my models have been older cars, and all of my "clear" paints have been inside the lights where perfect detailing is outside my skillset and does not seem to matter very much to the finished product.

Anyway, I carefully taped around the light with 1mm Tamiya Masking Tape for Curves, brushed on Tamiya X27 Clear Red, and popped it in the food dehydrator at 95F for a few hours.  When I removed the tape I found a fair amount of paint had seeped under the tape.

I have applied Windex to the area with a Q-tip, waited a while and wiped it off.  While this has greatly reduced the problem, I still have a visible pink stain.  Is there a way to remove the rest without removing the clear coat and without soaking the entire body in Windex for an extended period of time?

Clear Red seems to have a much thinner body than do opaque Tamiya X series paints.  Could this explain the way the paint seeped under my tape, or was this simply user error?  I want to take another shot at painting the brake light, but not if I am going to discover the same problem when I remove the next application of tape.  Should I use Tamiya's regular masking tape instead of the flexible variety?  Will it make a difference?

 

 

 

Tags: remove stain
  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Sunday, December 6, 2020 11:23 AM

Red, blue, and green paints all have a dye component to their pigmentation, which gets everywhere when its wet.  Someone else might have been able to do it successfully, but I don't think you're going to be able to remove the stain without removing the paint along with it.  If you have a similar situation come up in the future, the best way to handle it is to mask like you did, and then use an airbrush to mist the clear red on.  If you mist it on and slowly build up the relative opacity, it won't be wet enough to seep under the tape.

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    November 2020
Posted by two-qts-low on Sunday, December 6, 2020 12:16 PM

I was afraid of that.  The stain has faded quite a bit, but there are a couple of spots that just won't go away.  I've never tried airbrushing such a tiny area, but I like the logic of doing so, so long as I do not accidently additional "brake lights" to random other locations on the body!

  • Member since
    April 2020
Posted by Eaglecash867 on Sunday, December 6, 2020 12:29 PM

If you do end up airbrushing it, just make sure to hit the area straight on and not from angles.  That will help make sure you don't end up forcing some of the paint against the sides of the masking.  I airbrush pretty much everything now, even started doing instrument panels and cockpit consoles that way.  Heh...its a sickness.  LOL

"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."

  • Member since
    November 2018
Posted by oldermodelguy on Sunday, December 6, 2020 3:17 PM

I just want to address the dehydrator with X series paint. 30 minutes at 105f or so is sufficient. In fact it will be dry to handle in 15 minutes. And I've found the heat to improve gloss and leveling.

  • Member since
    November 2020
Posted by two-qts-low on Sunday, December 6, 2020 4:17 PM

I have just taped the entire body and hit the area around the brake light with a shot TS-13 clear with the idea of "sealing" the tape a bit better.

What about thinning clear paints?  Do I do anything differently compared to the rest of the X series?  It seems pretty thin straight from the jar.

 

Edit:  Google is still my friend.  I think I will go 50-50 with Mr Color Leveling Thinner.  I have the Tamiya thinner as well, but a lot of good results were reported with Mr Color and Tamiya clear.

Further Edit:  And now I am researching removal of tape residue.  I have both Goo Gone and WD-40 and wonder which one comes off more easily AFTER the residue is gone...

 

 

  • Member since
    November 2020
Posted by two-qts-low on Sunday, December 6, 2020 6:25 PM

 Post mortem - I appear to have lifted a layer of finish from two places.  Both are surrounded by rough areas I am not sure I understand.

I have tried to insert a Postimage link, but this is my first attempt at same I and I have no idea what I am doing wrong.  It is here: if that helps...

https://postimg.cc/N5zK0PLy

 

  • Member since
    November 2020
Posted by two-qts-low on Sunday, December 6, 2020 6:27 PM
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